Home: Mustang Tech: Forced induction: Turbo How to Series Part 3
Turbo How to Series Part 3

Summary:

This is section explains some of the most important details of the setup for a single or twin turbo Sn95: routing all the pipes, headers, and where to locate the Turbo units.

Details:

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Part 3


The SN95 has a small engine bay, where the Ford designers had to put not only the engine but all those accessories and smog equipment.

On the drivers front side, we have the A/C and Steering pump, which leaves us with a small space above and between them to route the exhaust into the turbo. The passenger side has the Smog pump, smog lines and some A/C lines.

Also on the drivers side there's the POWER BOX which has some engine relays and fuses that power some important devices such as the EEC, fuel pump and some important equipment.
This box, if exposed to heat, can melt and probably cause some electrical failure or worse.

So, where do we start?

The first step involves moving your battery to the trunk, its a fairly easy thing to do. You can buy a complete kit at several places such as Summit Racing.

We suggest to choose the easiest (not necessarily fastest) path, and by that we mean, move and reroute everything that could be a possible restriction to a another place inside the engine.

The Power box can be moved above the Brake Booster, for that you will need to REWIRE everything and route the wiring inside the fender well. THIS IS NO EASY task, but we think it can be done in a couple of days. We suggest that you get a shop manual with wiring diagrams if you want to do this. You can also use heat shields/insulators to protect the power box and it's harness.

For single and Twin setup there are some differences and Pro's /Con's on the installation.

Click for larger versionA Twin turbo setup requires modified headers on both sides, then reconnect the exhaust back to the H pipe. Also on a twin setup you will need a BLOW THROUGH Maf, such as the one sold by Pro-Flow (Pro-M). More piping is also required for the intercooler(s).

Click for larger versionFor a SINGLE setup, you will only need to modify or custom make one header, the other stays stock.
If you place the turbo on the passenger side, then the drivers side header remains stock, but you will need to cut the drivers side H pipe (reduce the length). The driver's side equal length header goes to a x-over pipe under the motor and then into the turbo manifold on the pass side.

SINGLE TURBO SETUP:

If you followed the previous articles, by now you might have chosen one setup or the other, and if you are going single then keep reading, else skip this section and go to the Twin setup.

This is a partial list of parts you will need:

Turbo T04B: Garret / Turbonetics or similar turbo
Stock header (drivers side)
Header kit (Hedman) or modified header to make the turbo manifold
Intercooler(s)
Steel Pipes and bends of different diameters, mostly 2.5" and 3"
Assortment of 2.5" and 3" hoses and heavy duty clamps
High temperature RTV sealant and gasket maker
Header to H pipe flanges, header flanges, header gaskets, exhaust to turbo flange, turbo to exhaust flange, exhaust clamps.
Braided line for oil line(s)
Wastegate (if not included in Turbo)
Braided line for coolant lines (depending on turbo)
Boost gauge
High capacity Fuel pump, Injectors (30 recommended), FMU or custom chip

The drivers side header is connected to a crossover pipe, which goes from the drivers side header, behind and underneath the motor (in between motor and tranny), and then comes back up connecting with the passenger side turbo manifold. That turbo manifold, connected with the drivers side header, feeds air forward into the turbo's compressor housing, and then out to a 2.5" downpipe. After the downpipe you will use a 2.5" Y-pipe which splits off into the catback exhaust.

TWIN TURBO SETUP:

For the Twin setup you would would need smaller Turbo's such as T3 units, luckily there are lots of cars that came factory with this kind of units:Chryslers, Saabs, Mitsus..etc, try too look for ones with factory wastegates and NON LIQUID cooled ones, they are easier to setup.

Figure 1Turbo's T3s: Garret / Turbonetics or similar size turbo's
Header kit (Hedman) or modified header to make the turbo manifolds
Intercooler(s)
Steel Pipes and bends of different diameters, mostly 2.5" and 3"
Assortment of 2.5" and 3" hoses and heavy duty clamps
High temperature RTV sealant and gasket maker
Header to H pipe flanges, header flanges, header gaskets, exhaust to turbo flange, turbo to exhaust flange, exhaust clamps.
Braided line for oil line(s)
Wastegates (if not included in Turbo)
Braided line for coolant lines (depending on turbo)
Boost gauge
High capacity Fuel pump, Injectors (30 recommended), FMU or custom chip

Now to hook it up all together there are some considerations, the twin setup takes more space than a single one, so you will have to relocate some stuff like the battery, a/c lines etc. Make sure you do this before any attempt to make the setup.

There are 2 main approaches for the twin setup, both with pro's and con's, the "simplest" is to use modified factory headers swapped LR-RL, where the turbo's will be placed on the battery and stock air box locations.

The second ones involves a bit more work to make the turbo manifolds. You can also use the LR-RL approach but in this case the TURBOS sit UNDER them, this is the approach INCON followed.

The exhaust gases will go directly into the turbo's inlet and directly form the turbo exhaust outlet into the H pipe. This setup requires less relocation and lots less piping. It is also less restrictive.

Useful sites with some actual setups

JB Racing Homepage Twin turbo 8 second mustang 5.0 build-up and tech (Very detailed pics)

www.gcoast.com/turbo/

www.turboford.org

www.dynotechracing.com (Incon setup)

Final Comments:

By no means this is over yet, PART 4 will be ready shortly with detailed ACTUAL images for both types of setups, so stay tuned.

END of PART 3

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Article by:GTRaptor Profile | E-Mail

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