Summary:

Well finally something to show to all interested in doing a TT setup at home, here's a very complete article written by our friend Chris Anderson.

Details:

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5

Part 4

Even though his Stang is FOX, most of the procedures and stuff needed will be the same for a SN95 Steed.
Check our previous articles for tips on the installation on a SN95 model.

Other good news is that we will SELL TT Manifolds and Downpipe's, as to when...well i don't want to sound as the Calibrator guys but we think probably sometime around August 2000. These iron manifolds (not turned down headers) were modified to work for a TT setup. Well enough of vaporware, let's read Chris' article.

These are what my intercooler started out as. Three individual units from 90-92 d.s.m. cars. 90-94 were all the same manual/ auto, front wheel, all-wheel it doesn't matter as long as they're turbo models. Each of these units are capable of efficiently cooling 200-250 hp worth of air. You do the math as to what they are capable of combined. Cost on these vary from place to place. New they are around $500 each, used as low as free to as much as $100 depending on condition. When looking at Intercoolers don't pay any attention to the shape of the end-tanks, they will be getting cut off anyway, the core is what you want to pay attention to. Look for obvious impact damage as well as small holes on the tube faces. Dented fins are not that big of a deal and can be worked straight with a small screwdriver. I paid as follows for these units, left-$10, center-$40, right-$50.

To connect them together you need to cut off the end-tanks, Make a cut about an 1/8" above the tank-to-core bond. Take them to a shop to have them mated side to side. It is critical that the weld be clean and will not create any leaks between the cores.

Once the cores are welded together you can get the dimensions for the new end tanks. Don't forget to take into consideration the tubing inlet and outlet sizes. I recommend having an 1/8" above and below the pipes. This will give plenty of room to make the welds without making the unit larger than it needs to be, you can run out of space in a hurry. To have end-tanks made simply go to any steel supply company and have them create U-channels to fit directly on top of the cores. Just tell them the dimensions yo need or even bring it in and show it to them and tell them what you are doing. 1/8" plate T-5054 aluminum is perfect for this, it is strong yet flexible enough to bend. You will also need some aluminum tubing for your hose inlets, kinsler fuel injection is where I usually get my tubing from, that get welded to the ends of the end-tanks . I also recommend having the tube ends rolled to prevent the hoses from coming off under boost.

This is what your finished intercooler should look like. Notice the mounting tabs to secure the i.c. to the front radiator support. The unit is pictured up-side down. The 2, 2 1/4" inlets from the turbo's compressor discharge pipe will be at the top with the 3" outlet coming out of the bottom on the passenger side. I had to remove my front bumper-brace to get it up front. You can mount an i.c. flat under the vehicle if you so choose, but sometimes oil, power steering, and oil return lines might be an area of concern, and make it almost impossible if you ever wanted to run open dump tubes. The measurements on this unit are; 24" X 12.5" total height, 4" X 12.5" depth, the core dimensions are 24"L X  4"D X 6.5"H charge side(what is coming from the turbo's), 24"W X 6.5" H X  4" D ambient side (cooling air ). Total cost was about $300 to have everything done on this particular unit.That's not to bad considering that a spearco core about this size runs $700 +, not including the end-tanks. I used 2 1/4" rubber hose to connect the turbo's to the intercooler, and 3" from the intercooler to the motor. Simple 90, 60, 45 deg elbows are available from NAPA in the hose catalog.Some will say they are not good enough for turbo hose and will distort under high boost, if you're not going to be running 20+ pounds they will work fine. As you will see they are the same thing that ATI uses on it's procharger kits.

These are the air inlet tubes that bring air into the turbo's. Each one resides in the fender wells so the turbo's can get cool, dense air. The inlets are 3" and after the bends neck down to 2 1/4". I fabricated these out of 3" mild steel 90 & 45 deg. tubing with 2 1/4" straight pipe I had a muffler shop flare out to 3" then welded and painted them. If you use .080" + tubing you should be able to get it to expand to 3". One 9"(RE-0810) & one 6"(RE-0930) K&N conical filter will be attached to each pipe. Making this is something you will need a welder for. Ignore the dates on these pictures, if I really did this back in 94 I would be famous.

There are a few things I recommend when running a turbo motor. First being, take the motor apart and put in ARP head studs. If you ever nuke a gasket they will pay for themselves, they are also very strong and will do wonders for gasket retention. I use fel-pro stock replacement graphite head gaskets w/ my o-ringed block. I you're not detonating they'll hold fine. Second, get some form of A/F monitoring tool. EGT is my personal favorite. For about $140 you can save yourself a world of hurt. Third, a fuel press guage is just as important as a boost guage. If you don't have one, get one! Fourth, If you have the money, go aluminum heads. Something with good deck material to it like the TFS, Edelbrock, Canfield, AFR, etc., They have so many advantages it's not funny. They will also give you great expandability later.

A lot to cover in this picture. Here you can see the upside-down mounted MAC headers, the 2 1/2 " connector pipes, driver side turbo, relocated power steering pump, oil feed line from the oil press. sending unit, loose water coolant lines that run from the heater core lines to the turbo's, and the modified factory rails. The headers and pipe are easy enough to understand, but I want to let you know about the other stuff. I had to fabricate a relocation system for the power steering pump to clear the turbo feed pipe and the dump pipe. I think a bracket from an 85 non-a/c car would have worked, but I couldn't find one, and I wasn't going to pay $75 for the Ford motorsports one. Oil lines are just plumbed into the press. sending unit by tapping it w/ a 1/8" NPT tap and installing a T-fitting to feed both turbos, You will also need to run the return lines to the oil pan, use -12 line so there isn't any flow restriction. Try to get the return lines when you buy the turbo's. If you get t-25s from 95's- up the owner should have them because the upgrade kits from HRC and others come with new lines. (there was an oil feed line change in mid-95, if it isn't 1/4" inverted flare you need to get an adapter from Hann Racecraft (630) 801-1417, and might end up running braided line) The water coolant lines in just took from the heater core hoses. You will need (2) 1/4" X 3/8" Tee available from NAPA. I used regular 3/8" fuel line to get water to the turbo's. All DSM cars utilize water cooled turbo's, you will need to purchase new waterline crush washers and possibly the hard lines that attach to the turbo's as well. I modified my factory rails to accept two -6 inlets. What I did was drill and tap the passenger side rail end for a 1/4" NPT fitting, cut off the factory feed line and tapped that for an 1/8" NPT. I installed a separate gauge port in the 1/8" and a 1/4"X -6 fitting in the other. On the drivers side rear I installed a T w/ a 1/4" NPT -6 fitting w/ an 1/8" gauge port.

Here you can see the two -6 lines coming from the NOS -8 to -6 Y. The radiator hose also had to be modified to keep it from burning on the turbo pipe.

This is the completed motor as it sits in the car now. Here you can see a few things I would like to touch on. One; Wires, these are Accel 8.8 race wires, get the ones with the heat covering on them, spend the $100 up-front rather than after you burn your $60 set the first time. Two; The Howe 31" X 19" aluminum radiator and Flex-lite Black Magic fan are awesome. I had to replace my stock one after I put on the aluminum heads. It was running a little warmer maybe do to there better heat dissipation, but try it without it and see what happens. Three; If that piping on the MAF looks like an ATI pro-charger setup, that's because it is. I ordered it directly from ATI because it fit my set up, was reasonably priced, and Pro-m could perfectly match the meter to the elbow. it was a win all the way around.  There are just a few other things I would like to share my insight on. Monitoring devices; I recommend having an EGT, ACT, knock meter, Fuel press. gauge, boost press., and maybe some form of timing retard if you don't plan on having some form of engine management like a PMS, EPEC, DFI, EEC tuner, etc. I highly recommend getting an engine management system because if you factor in the cost of knock retard systems you're not that much more to taking complete control of your whole engine. I personally am going with an EPEC, as a matter of fact there is one on its way right now. The reason why is that my 88 cal. MAF computer died while I was in the Twin Cities at the Back to the fifties show. I had to bum a computer to get me home. I found out that a new computer was $125 w/ a $150 core because I didn't want another 88 Cal. computer so I was going to have to eat the core. $275 for a stock computer? Yeah Right!! So without a computer I had two choices, 1) DFI or 2) EPEC. After having $300 into an MAF and not wanting to change over to all GM sensors I figured EPEC. I tell you when you buy one of these things you get great help. I purchased mine from Laroccas Performance and Jimmy is great. He might not have a ton of experience with turbo cars, but he does know the EPEC's inside and out as well as supercharged cars. Plus he's a great guy to talk to. He'll do just about anything to help you. Being realistic; Be honest with yourself as to your abilities and monetary backing. I will tell you, I have been working on this system for over a year, and have had the idea in my brain for over three. So I've had time to think everything through many times and there were still complications. Something like this is not an over the weekend deal, Just call up Incon, TDC, Cartech, Turbo Technology, and see how long it took them to make something from an idea, and keep in mind they had engineers working many hours a day, and lots of experience to know what works and doesn't. If anyone does make themselves a KICK ASS homemade single or twin turbo car, I tell you there isn't many things in this world better than going mach 1 past the other guy, then popping the hood to show everyone what you made yourself. It's great, trust me!!

I do want to warn all the people who are going to try and attempt what I have done, there is more cost involved than meets the eye. I recommend that they be completely honest with themselves about the money, time, blood, sweat and tears it takes to accomplish this. It will be a lot nicer for them if you could supply manifolds and dump-pipes, that is a major part of the fabrication requirements, however there is much, much more. To cost effectively accomplish this there are certain things that they will have to find used, or very cheap. If you do not have above average fabrication & mechanical skills,...save your money and buy a kit!! Think about it, guys are buying complete kits and still having them proof. installed. All welding, R&D, parts matching and so on has all been done for you, and they are still having someone put it in for them. If they are not warned up front of some of the difficulties and extra money requirements there are going to be a lot of unfinished projects out there with very disappointed owners. Please understand my feelings on this.It wouldn't do the hobby any good if people get turned away by a failed project. This is a break down of the primary parts that are on the car.

**********************************MOTOR & DRIVETRAIN**************************************

Turbos ................................................Dual t-25 garrett/mitsu's from 95 eclipses
Intercooler ..........................................(3) 90-92 talon/eclipse/laser intercoolers
I.C.Piping ...........................................2 1/4" from turbo's / 3" From I.C. to motor
Bypass valve ......................................Stock 90 talon
Engine ...............................................Stock 302
Heads ................................................T.F.S. twisted wedge 2.02/1.60 valves
Rockers..............................................Erson 1.6 fordged aluminum rollers
Pushrods............................................T.F.S. 6.600" length cromemoly
Intake ................................................Stock 87 upper-ported/ lower-welded&ported
Throttle Body .....................................Stock 60mm ' 87
Injectors ............................................38 lb/hr Lucas
Mass Airflow Sensor ..........................Pro-M 75mm Bullet
Blow-Thru w/optimizer Computer .........Stock 88 cal. maf-sfi
Cam .................................................Stock
Pistons .............................................Stock 86 flat tops
Compression .....................................9.5-9.7:1
Rods ................................................Stock
Crank ...............................................Stock
Ignition .............................................MSD- 6A
Wires ...............................................Accel 8.8 race wires w/ high temp sheild
Fuel rails ..........................................Stock modified for dual -6 inlets
Pressure Regulator ............................A.F.M Adjustable
Billet Pump, Main Tank .....................190 LPH SVO Pump,
Race Cell .........................................(2) stock Syclone/Typhoon
Fuel Line ..........................................-8 from tanks to motor (2) -6 from y to rails
Headers ........................................... 1 5/8" MAC's w/ 2 1/2" pipe to turbo's
Down Pipes ......................................2 1/2" from Turbo's to H-Pipe
Wastegate .......................................(2) Stock Eclipse
H-pipe ..............................................Hooker Off-Road 2 /1/2"
Mufflers ............................................Hooker Max-Flo's 2 1/2"
Tail Pipes .........................................Hooker 2 1/2" Aluminized
Transmission ....................................Stock T-5
Clutch ..............................................Stock
Rear-End ..........................................8.8 w/ 3.55's and svo carrier
Tires,Front ........................................205/60/15 BFG's
Tires, Rear ........................................275/50/15 BFG's T/A & Comp T/A Drags
Suspension
Front ................................................70/30 lakewoods w/ Moroso drag srings
Rear ................................................stock w/ air bags in coils
Guages ............................................Autometer 2" boost/ water temp, 2 5/8 Fuel press. Casper elect. Knock meter, ACT, EGT
******************************TUNE UP**********************************************
Fuel Type .........................................93 in main tank/ 110 Conoco in cell
Timimg .............................................4-5 Deg. Initial w/stock computer
Plug Type .........................................A/C R42XLS
Gap ..................................................035"
Boost Retard .....................................None
Fuel Press. .......................................42psi static/ 52-53psi @ full boost
E.G.T ...............................................1480-1520 deg. 1" from head on #3
Cyl A.C.T @ T.B................................100-110 deg @ 10psi w/ 75 deg ambient
MAF Volts @Idle ...............................700-.730
E.G.T @ Idle .................................... 750-850 deg.
Idle Speed ........................................800-850 rpm
T.P.S. @ Idle ....................................98 volts
T.P.S.@ W.O.T .................................4.899 volts
Boost ................................................7-10 psi
Performance
60' ...........................................1.973
330 ...........................................5.345
1/8 ............................................8.120
1/4 ...........................................12.464
MPH ........................................114.12 60'

This was my first time out with this combo and the BFG drag radials. I was leaving the line at 3,000 rpm and goosing it on the last yellow. The front end would fly up and I was afraid they were going to break loose, so I would lift ever so slightly and the motor would drop out of boost and bog. As soon as I'd get back into it she'd dead hook and leave hard, as the photos show. This was @ 7psi!

END of PART 4

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