Special Considerations !!
There
are 2 types of T5s available: T5 World Class, and None World Class
Of the WC there are also 2 subtypes: With Short (pre
94) input shaft and with long input shaft (94-95-96??)
For a SN95 AODE swap get preferably all the parts from
another SN95, the tranny is stronger and the bellhousing will accommodate
well the extra length of the long input shaft.
The bellhousing you want to use has "5.0"
painted on it, but the 3.8 late model Mustang bellhousing will also
fit.
We
also recommend installing a steel bearing retainer instead of the weak
aluminum unit.
The AODE Crossmember will work with the T5.
Another
important note, the AODE driveshaft slip yoke has a damper, you can
still use it but i would recommend swapping to an alum Driveshaft and
T5 yoke to eliminate any possibility of vibration.
The
AODE Speed sensor can be reused on the T5, the only important difference
is the speedo gear, AODE gears have a longer "extension" but
you can grind it down a bit to fit into the T5 speedo location. Note
on the picture on the right the length of the first speedo gear, that's
for an AODE the rest are T5 gears.
If
you are installing a used flywheel have it resurfaced, else some vibration
might occur, we got a new 
FRPP
Billet Steel Flywheel part #6375C302 from Steeda. We also paired it
with a brand new King Cobra FRPP clutch, TO bearing, new Pilot bearing
and pressure plate. The Ford kits are made by VALEO so don't be surprised
if the box doesn't say FORD anywhere, the kit is Ford part #7560c302.
AODE removal:
CONSOLE
Always disconnect the battery first !!
Start
by removing the central console: remove the shifter bezel and the
2 screws retaining the console front, then remove the rear 2 screws
under the console compartment.
Remove the fog light and convertible top switches.
Pull
the parking brake handle and slide the console out of the way
Remove the AODE bezel, it uses torx type bolts but
can use an allen wrench to remove the 4 of them, pull it out and
disconnect the OD switch and lighting bulb.
Remove the shifter bolts
PEDALS
Remove
the drivers seat for ease of access
Remove the 4 firewall nuts and upper bolt retaining
the pedal assembly
Loosen the steering shaft u joint bolt and move
the shaft as far into the engine as possible.
Remove the brake pedal sensor by prying out the
locking pin, then slide out the brake piston rod.
Wiggle the pedal assembly out.
 
 
AODE removal steps
 
The AODE removed |
AODE
- Remove the H pipe (don't forget to unplug the O2
sensors, btw we are getting a new off road X pipe next year hehehe)
- Remove the Driveshaft (remember to mark the alignment
at the driveshaft u-joint)
- Remove the starter
- Remove the central bolts retaining the AODE to
the trans mount.
- Empty AODE and Converter fluid .
- Disconnect all the sensors from the Aode and the
shifter cable.
- Place jack under AODE pan, use a wood flat board
between jack and pan to avoid bending it.
- Remove starter
- Remove AODE Bellhousing bolts
- Remove Xmember bolts
- Lower AODE a bit and wiggle it out
- Remove AODE
| Specs
and Parts:
- Bellhousing transmission mounting face run
out 0 to .010"
- Bellhousing transmission opening run out
.009 to .015"
- Pressure plate to flywheel bolt torque 12
- 24 ft lbs.
- Bellhousing to engine block bolt torque 38
- 55 ft lbs
- Transmission to bellhousing bolt torque 45
- 65 ft lbs
- Flywheel to crankshaft bolt torque 75 - 85
ft lbs
- Driveshaft to pinion flange bolt torque 42
- 57 ft lbs
- Speedometer sensor bolt torque 36 - 54 in.
lbs
- Pilot bearing D4DZ-7600-A
- Throw out bearing D9ZZ-7548-A
- Pressure plate alignment dowels D1FZ-6397-B
- Pressure plate bolts N602549-551M
- Flywheel ('86 - '95 only) M-6375-B302 or
C302 (billet steel)
|
INSTALLATION
T5 Pedal Assembly:
Install
is reverse of removal of AODE assembly, but since it is wider it gets
a bit tougher.
The
clutch quadrant gets in the way so you can remove it or move to a
position where it does not interfere with all the stuff under the
dash. The easiest way to install it is first to get the brake piston
rod into the center hole of the assembly, the pedals should be facing
RIGHT to the trans tunnel. Once that is done, straighten it up while
moving the quadrant out of the way by release of the quadrant adjuster.
Once
in place reinstall all the bolts and nuts and connect the brake and
clutch wires (clutch harness would be visible at the top right upper
corner or the side kick panel (2 connectors).
T5:
Place the T5 shifter dust cover plate over the trans
tunnel, install the rear (furthest from front) bolts.
The T5 wont clear the front of the trans tunnel, you
will have to remove around 1" of metal and drill 2 new holes
for the front bolts. This is just a preparation, the shifter will
be installed after the T5 is raised into position.
Remove the shifter from the T5, you will install after
you fill the tranny with lube.
Install fork and TO bearing, put some bearing grease
on the bearing shaft retainer.
The six holes in the flywheel only line up one way
with the crankshaft holes. The flywheel and crankshaft bolt holes
should be cleaned. Apply loctite to the bolts. This insures that the
bolts don't come loose and oil doesn't leak past the threads and contaminate
the clutch disc. Torque the flywheel bolts to 75-85 ft. lbs.
Now install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Use
a clutch alignment tool to properly center clutch disc. Be absolutely
sure that all 3 pressure plate alignment dowels are in the flywheel.
They are what center the pressure plate. Once the pressure plate and
disc are held in place, put the pressure plate bolts in. You have
to draw these bolts down evenly or you can damage the pressure plate.
Torque these bolts to 12 - 24 ft lbs. Also, for the very small cost
of these bolts, always get a set of 6 new ones at your local Ford
dealer (PN # N602549-551M).
Before
installing the bellhousing, check it for damage. The alignment dowel
holes should be perfectly round and the release lever pivot ball should
not show any abnormal wear. Also, remove any nicks from the front
and rear facings of the bellhousing. Replace the pivot ball or the
bellhousing if there is any undo wear. Now the bellhousing can bolted
onto the block. Torque the bolts to 38 - 55 ft lbs. Check the trans
mounting face for run out. It should be .010" or less. Check
the opening in the back of the bellhousing for run out also. It should
be .015 or less.
If
either one of these specifications are not met, replace the bellhousing.
Once the bellhousing is finished, install the clutch release lever
and throw out bearing. Apply a thin film of C1AZ-19590-BA or equivalent
lubricant to the release level ball pivot mating surface and the release
lever fork anti-rattle spring where they contact the Throw out bearing.
Install the Throw out bearing into the release lever and the release
lever into the bellhousing. Make sure you wipe any excess grease from
inside the Throw out bearing bore. Inspect the face of the trans for
any nicks. Also, check the bearing retainer for any wear. If any wear
is found, replace it. There are aftermarket ones that are made of
steel instead of aluminum that would be better to use. Also, check
for any signs of fluid leakage. A blocked vent on the trans will also
cause leaks.
| Electronics
and Wiring
There has been much debate about the AODE EEC
processors not working when doing a T5 swap. On this swap we
used the same U4P0 Aode processor but with one additional component:
An EEC Tuner Board.
With the Tuner we were able to modify the EEC
Program by making just 1 parameter change :
TRANS_LOAD_TYPE_SWITCH=0
The default of 6 is for an AODE tranny.
If you keep the stock program the engine will
hesitate a bit when the EEC senses its time for an AODE shift.
The stock AODE wiring harness was also kept,
we connected the VSS and reverse sensors and Removed from the
AODE the shifter position sensor, connected it, fastened it
to the T5 and placed it in PARK so the car would start.
|
Once the trans is ready to install, put a thin film
of lubricant on the bearing retainer where the throw out bearing slides.
Raise the trans up and slide forward to install.
When the trans is against the bellhousing, install
the 4 trans bolts and torque to 45 - 65 ft lbs. Install your speedometer
cable / sensor, the neutral switch, and back up light harness. You
can now reinstall the shifter.
Tighten the bolts to 36 - 50 ft lbs. Now with the
trans in place you are ready for the H-pipe. After the H-pipe is installed,
install the driveshaft. Be careful to note the position you had marked
on it earlier. Torque the driveshaft flange bolts to 42 - 57 ft lbs.
Before lowering the car, check the fluid level in the trans.
Last install the clutch cable and adjust it. It is
a wise idea to use an aluminum quadrant and adjustable clutch cable
since the plastic stock ones tend to brake or loose their tooth and
then they are almost impossible to adjust right.
The rest of the process is straight forward, just
put everything back in place.
The new clutch shouldn't be abused, use it smoothly
for a couple of hundred miles before you do any street or track racing.
So now you are ready, enjoy the T5 and the new found
power which is lost by the AODE !!
Any comments, suggestions or if you find any omissions,
please feel free to let us know.
