Home: Mustang Tech: Transmission and Drivetrain: AODE to T5 Swap
AODE to T5 Swap

Article by: GTRaptor Profile | E-Mail

Summary:

 

Parts Needed:

  • T5 from a 94-95 sn95 (World Class)
  • Bellhousing (From SN95)
  • Bellhousing Bolts
  • Bellhousing dowel pins
  • Pressure Plate
  • Pressure Plate Bolts
  • T5 Flywheel (FRPP Billet Steel )
  • Flywheel Bolts
  • Pilot Bearing
  • TO Bearing
  • Clutch (HD FRPP)
  • Clutch Dust shield
  • 28 Spline T5 Driveshaft Yoke (connects to T5 output shaft)
  • Pedal assembly
  • T5 Driveshaft (FRPP Alum in a few weeks)
  • AODE X member
  • T5 Shifter bezel with boot
  • T5 dust boot
  • Clutch cable and Quadrant
  • Steel Bearing Retainer (is T5 has the Alum weak one, recommended)

 

 

Introduction

Ok, here is an attempt to write a very detailed article on a AODE to T5 swap.

On all similar articles, either on the web or specialty magazines they skip some very important considerations when they write them down. And some of that missing information can lead to delays when performing the swap.

The total cost for the swap will be close to $1,200 depending on where you get the parts, i did start with the local Junker and i tell you it is not worth it if you don't know exactly what you are looking for and if the person at the junker misleads you in your search with "this is the same part" kind of comments. Mustangs Unlimited and other vendors offer ready to bolt-on kits that in my opinion are worth every penny (around $1,400).

The above doesn't include labor costs, so be prepared for it. I did many of the steps required but i had to pay for a mechanic-friend time, it was around $300 but worth it.

The complete swap should take at least 2 days, even 3 since you always have to work out some details.

I hope you find the article clear enough so you spend only a fraction of the time it took me...wont say how much...it was too much.

Rob.

 

Details:


Special Considerations !!

There are 2 types of T5s available: T5 World Class, and None World Class

Of the WC there are also 2 subtypes: With Short (pre 94) input shaft and with long input shaft (94-95-96??)

For a SN95 AODE swap get preferably all the parts from another SN95, the tranny is stronger and the bellhousing will accommodate well the extra length of the long input shaft.

The bellhousing you want to use has "5.0" painted on it, but the 3.8 late model Mustang bellhousing will also fit.

We also recommend installing a steel bearing retainer instead of the weak aluminum unit.

The AODE Crossmember will work with the T5.

Another important note, the AODE driveshaft slip yoke has a damper, you can still use it but i would recommend swapping to an alum Driveshaft and T5 yoke to eliminate any possibility of vibration.

The AODE Speed sensor can be reused on the T5, the only important difference is the speedo gear, AODE gears have a longer "extension" but you can grind it down a bit to fit into the T5 speedo location. Note on the picture on the right the length of the first speedo gear, that's for an AODE the rest are T5 gears.

If you are installing a used flywheel have it resurfaced, else some vibration might occur, we got a new FRPP Billet Steel Flywheel part #6375C302 from Steeda. We also paired it with a brand new King Cobra FRPP clutch, TO bearing, new Pilot bearing and pressure plate. The Ford kits are made by VALEO so don't be surprised if the box doesn't say FORD anywhere, the kit is Ford part #7560c302.

 


AODE removal:

CONSOLE

Always disconnect the battery first !!

    Start by removing the central console: remove the shifter bezel and the 2 screws retaining the console front, then remove the rear 2 screws under the console compartment.

     

    Remove the fog light and convertible top switches.

    Pull the parking brake handle and slide the console out of the way

    Remove the AODE bezel, it uses torx type bolts but can use an allen wrench to remove the 4 of them, pull it out and disconnect the OD switch and lighting bulb.

    Remove the shifter bolts

 


PEDALS

Remove the drivers seat for ease of access

Remove the 4 firewall nuts and upper bolt retaining the pedal assembly

Loosen the steering shaft u joint bolt and move the shaft as far into the engine as possible.

Remove the brake pedal sensor by prying out the locking pin, then slide out the brake piston rod.

Wiggle the pedal assembly out.

 





AODE removal steps
AODEAODE
The AODE removed

AODE

    • Remove the H pipe (don't forget to unplug the O2 sensors, btw we are getting a new off road X pipe next year hehehe)
    • Remove the Driveshaft (remember to mark the alignment at the driveshaft u-joint)
    • Remove the starter
    • Remove the central bolts retaining the AODE to the trans mount.
    • Empty AODE and Converter fluid .
    • Disconnect all the sensors from the Aode and the shifter cable.
    • Place jack under AODE pan, use a wood flat board between jack and pan to avoid bending it.
    • Remove starter
    • Remove AODE Bellhousing bolts
    • Remove Xmember bolts
    • Lower AODE a bit and wiggle it out
    • Remove AODE

     

     

     

     

     

     


    Specs and Parts:

    • Bellhousing transmission mounting face run out 0 to .010"
    • Bellhousing transmission opening run out .009 to .015"
    • Pressure plate to flywheel bolt torque 12 - 24 ft lbs.
    • Bellhousing to engine block bolt torque 38 - 55 ft lbs
    • Transmission to bellhousing bolt torque 45 - 65 ft lbs
    • Flywheel to crankshaft bolt torque 75 - 85 ft lbs
    • Driveshaft to pinion flange bolt torque 42 - 57 ft lbs
    • Speedometer sensor bolt torque 36 - 54 in. lbs
    • Pilot bearing D4DZ-7600-A
    • Throw out bearing D9ZZ-7548-A
    • Pressure plate alignment dowels D1FZ-6397-B
    • Pressure plate bolts N602549-551M
    • Flywheel ('86 - '95 only) M-6375-B302 or C302 (billet steel)

    INSTALLATION

    T5 Pedal Assembly:

    Install is reverse of removal of AODE assembly, but since it is wider it gets a bit tougher.
    The clutch quadrant gets in the way so you can remove it or move to a position where it does not interfere with all the stuff under the dash. The easiest way to install it is first to get the brake piston rod into the center hole of the assembly, the pedals should be facing RIGHT to the trans tunnel. Once that is done, straighten it up while moving the quadrant out of the way by release of the quadrant adjuster.

    Once in place reinstall all the bolts and nuts and connect the brake and clutch wires (clutch harness would be visible at the top right upper corner or the side kick panel (2 connectors).


    T5:

    Place the T5 shifter dust cover plate over the trans tunnel, install the rear (furthest from front) bolts.

    The T5 wont clear the front of the trans tunnel, you will have to remove around 1" of metal and drill 2 new holes for the front bolts. This is just a preparation, the shifter will be installed after the T5 is raised into position.

    Remove the shifter from the T5, you will install after you fill the tranny with lube.

    Install fork and TO bearing, put some bearing grease on the bearing shaft retainer.

     

    The six holes in the flywheel only line up one way with the crankshaft holes. The flywheel and crankshaft bolt holes should be cleaned. Apply loctite to the bolts. This insures that the bolts don't come loose and oil doesn't leak past the threads and contaminate the clutch disc. Torque the flywheel bolts to 75-85 ft. lbs.

    Now install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Use a clutch alignment tool to properly center clutch disc. Be absolutely sure that all 3 pressure plate alignment dowels are in the flywheel. They are what center the pressure plate. Once the pressure plate and disc are held in place, put the pressure plate bolts in. You have to draw these bolts down evenly or you can damage the pressure plate. Torque these bolts to 12 - 24 ft lbs. Also, for the very small cost of these bolts, always get a set of 6 new ones at your local Ford dealer (PN # N602549-551M).

    Before installing the bellhousing, check it for damage. The alignment dowel holes should be perfectly round and the release lever pivot ball should not show any abnormal wear. Also, remove any nicks from the front and rear facings of the bellhousing. Replace the pivot ball or the bellhousing if there is any undo wear. Now the bellhousing can bolted onto the block. Torque the bolts to 38 - 55 ft lbs. Check the trans mounting face for run out. It should be .010" or less. Check the opening in the back of the bellhousing for run out also. It should be .015 or less.

    If either one of these specifications are not met, replace the bellhousing. Once the bellhousing is finished, install the clutch release lever and throw out bearing. Apply a thin film of C1AZ-19590-BA or equivalent lubricant to the release level ball pivot mating surface and the release lever fork anti-rattle spring where they contact the Throw out bearing. Install the Throw out bearing into the release lever and the release lever into the bellhousing. Make sure you wipe any excess grease from inside the Throw out bearing bore. Inspect the face of the trans for any nicks. Also, check the bearing retainer for any wear. If any wear is found, replace it. There are aftermarket ones that are made of steel instead of aluminum that would be better to use. Also, check for any signs of fluid leakage. A blocked vent on the trans will also cause leaks.

     

     

    Electronics and Wiring

    There has been much debate about the AODE EEC processors not working when doing a T5 swap. On this swap we used the same U4P0 Aode processor but with one additional component: An EEC Tuner Board.

    With the Tuner we were able to modify the EEC Program by making just 1 parameter change :

    TRANS_LOAD_TYPE_SWITCH=0

    The default of 6 is for an AODE tranny.

    If you keep the stock program the engine will hesitate a bit when the EEC senses its time for an AODE shift.

    The stock AODE wiring harness was also kept, we connected the VSS and reverse sensors and Removed from the AODE the shifter position sensor, connected it, fastened it to the T5 and placed it in PARK so the car would start.

     

     

    Once the trans is ready to install, put a thin film of lubricant on the bearing retainer where the throw out bearing slides. Raise the trans up and slide forward to install.

    When the trans is against the bellhousing, install the 4 trans bolts and torque to 45 - 65 ft lbs. Install your speedometer cable / sensor, the neutral switch, and back up light harness. You can now reinstall the shifter.

     

    Tighten the bolts to 36 - 50 ft lbs. Now with the trans in place you are ready for the H-pipe. After the H-pipe is installed, install the driveshaft. Be careful to note the position you had marked on it earlier. Torque the driveshaft flange bolts to 42 - 57 ft lbs. Before lowering the car, check the fluid level in the trans.

    Last install the clutch cable and adjust it. It is a wise idea to use an aluminum quadrant and adjustable clutch cable since the plastic stock ones tend to brake or loose their tooth and then they are almost impossible to adjust right.

    The rest of the process is straight forward, just put everything back in place.

    The new clutch shouldn't be abused, use it smoothly for a couple of hundred miles before you do any street or track racing.

    So now you are ready, enjoy the T5 and the new found power which is lost by the AODE !!

    Any comments, suggestions or if you find any omissions, please feel free to let us know.

 

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