are tricky but easy, first remove the TAB in the upper/outer adjusting
screw, press the inner/lower plastic bolt fastener and get the headlight
out, last remove the connector to the headlight (leave the bulb inside).
For emblems I used some dental floss to remove it, just
slide under the emblem and pull...easy
Next was all the upper window trim, there are 2 pieces
in each side, the one at the top of the side windows and the trim in the
rear windows. Start by removing the weather-strip, it has small plastic
tabs that are easily removed with a small flathead. Once you get the tabs
out remove the strip by pulling gently a bit at a time. Once you get this
out there's a RAIL on the underside of the roof that uses TORX bolts,
remove them. Once you get them out you have access to the bolts that secure
the top panel, remove these with a screwdriver. At the FRONT of the panel,
close to the door hinge, there's a small 9mm (I think) bolt that has to
be removed. Once you get this out you can remove the panel.
The rear window panel is a bit tricky; you have to remove
the door sill and rear interior panel to get access to the nuts that secure
it to the top. The interior panel is secured with locking tabs that can
be detached with some patience and a flathead. Take extra care on not
to damage the panel, the plastic is brittle and could break.
With the inner rear panel out of the way you can remove the side
scoops; these are attached with 3 nuts.
Now it's BUMPER TIME! both pieces are "easy"
but take a while to remove, you have to first remove all the plastic tabs
under the bumpers, remove the bolts that secure to the fenders and then
remove the inner bolts and nuts inside the fenders. Once you get all out,
ask someone to help you pull them out. I don't have the complete process
here cause the shop did it (I was on vacation).
Next go to the trunk and remove the license plate frame and
STOP light, these are straightforward, just a few bolts
The mirrors can be removed BUT there's really no need,
you will have to remove the door panels to do this and it's a bitch. So
just remove the mirror inner panel, remove the bolts and secure the mirrors
to the window using some masking tape.
The doors have a weather strip that seals the window
and has to be removed, just pull them up (also on rear side window).
After you finish disassembly of the several body parts it
is time to remove the old paint. Depending on the paint conditions you
have 2 choices. The first will be to sand and remove the clear coat and
leave just the primer, then paint over it. The 2nd choice is to remove
all the paint and primer and expose the bare metal.
Choice #1 is the most common when there's no primer damage and the body
has no dents. You will have to start by sanding, then apply a thin coat
of primer and repaint. If paint is severely cracked or damaged then remove
paint and primer completely.
We won't guide you through the complete process of sanding, prep and
painting but we can give you some general tips.
Prep, if you are working over bare metal you will have to avoid oxidation,
for this you or shop will have to apply a coat of a rust inhibitor.
After the first priority of killing rust and patching sheet metal is
complete, the car will soon be ready for paint. First it will need filling
around the seams and welds from sheet metal repairs. I recommend the use
of a waterproof filler called Duraglass by USC. This is excellent for
filling the welds and patch panels. Just a light skim coat, followed by
a premium plastic filler, such as Rage, by Evercoat. After the panels
are sanded and "blocked", prime the sheet metal with PPG's DP
40, an excellent two part, self etching epoxy primer, then over this,
shoot two or three coats of PPG's K200 surfacer/primer. After this is
blocked and wet sanded, you'll be ready for the final paint. I recommend
a Base Coat/Clear coat system such as DuPont's Chroma Base. It is very
"user Friendly", dries fast and wet sands beautifully.
GT Raptor is getting a coat of deep black Dupont Chroma base, and over
it a hard Dupont urethane clear coat
Now, a note about paints, you can get several type of paint like ENAMEL,
URETHANE and LACQUER, lacquer was the most popular method of painting
but it uses some stuff that is very contaminant like lacquer thinner.
Most cars today are covered with environmental friendly
coats of water based Enamels and Clear coats.
Lacquer has a beautiful shine (like a piano) when applied correctly and
some restorers use it mostly for SHOW ROOM cars that will never or barely
see the streets.
Enamel Base Coat/Clear coat paints are the most commonly used by the
industry today, the paint consists of 1 coat of BASE which is the actual
pigment, and a coat of CLEAR which is a transparent paint that will give
the paint its luster and WET LIKE appearance.
Urethane paints are another very popular type in use by restorers and
body shops, Urethane paints are called HIGH SOLID compounds and the urethane
will last longer and it's tougher and provides a high gloss finish. Urethane
is also the most expensive of the 3 paints.
We suggest that you get at least regular enamel BC/CC paint; it will
last long and does not require much maintenance.
Now about your SN95, the latest mustangs have LOTS of plastic parts in
them; these require a special treatment when painting. The base and clear
coat should be mixed with an additive that adds some "flexibility"
properties. This helps avoid cracked paint in bumpers and other plastic
trim. The pieces that will require this preparation are the Hood, license
plate frame, bumpers, side skirts, hood scoops and side scoops.
END OF PART 1
PART 1 | PART