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HiCrane6 Installation

Article by:Vortex Profile | E-Mail

Summary:

Crane HI-6S Ignition installation system. One thing that some performance enthusiasists overlook is the small horsepower gains that dont feel like a difference, but do make one, be it horsepower or saftey (subframes, oil accumulators,etc.) The installation of an aftermarket igniton box is fairly straight forward and takes little time to get the accurate spark, and horsepower gains to make the "detail-oriented" Stanger happy.

I went with the Crane HI-6S igniton system with coil, over MSD 6A(AL) for a few reasons. First off the price was cheaper. Secondly, it has a digital composition as opposed to analog and incorporates some of the better technology. And, there are other reasons, but lastly I will say that it is for my longing to be different. every other person has an MSD it seems. At this time I also opted to go with the DynaMod Igniton control module from Performance Distributors to get all the spark I can. From Summit Magazine the actual box seems to be about the size of a stereo amplifier. As you can see from this picture:

Details:

TOOLS:

  • Ford Ignition Control Module tool (found at any parts store socket on one end, torx head on the other. A regular socket will work if you feel like grounding down the exterior of it.) drill or punch (to make a small hole to get the mounting screws to start.
  • Phillips Screwdriver (to tighten the screws.)
  • Wire crimpers and any other tool to move an obstacle depending on where you mount it.


INSTALLATION:
I opted to mount the ignition box in a cool, dry place that would be out of the way. I opted to place it on the passenger side fender right behind the elbow for my cold air induction. It will be easiest to remove your air box from the throttle body first but I opted to remove the ignition control module first. First, disconnect the battery. Then if you change the ICM, pull of the pluge connected to the end of the module, then just use the special tool and remove the two screws holding it to the bracket. be careful not to drop the screws.

Here is the ICM out of its harness. Get a clean rag and clean all of the white goo off of the mounting plate.

 

Here is my new DynaMod ICM and grease packet. Use the supplied grease and spread all over the metal backing plate to get a good connection.



This is the old module but it has white grease so it would show up, the new one had clear. You get the idea. The new one is installed in reverse order. Don't overtighten the bolts because you can strip them, just get them snug.

 

Next, removed my cold air induction from the throttle body and from the elbow. If you have the same setup the BBK CAI uses an 11mm nut with a 10 mm bolt head to take off the mass air flow sensor from the elbow. The tube pulls off the throttle body by removing a hose clamp (screwdriver or nutdriver.) Mounting the box is a no-brainer. hold the box up where you want it. Use a fine-tipped marker to "dot" where the holes are, and drill them out. Then, mount the box with the supplied screws. With this location, I have the rev-limiter dial controls pointed up for easy access. For the ground,use the single thick black wire and attach the 3/8" eyelet to the end. for a ground connection, I used a factory bolt that already had a ground wire on it, located on the core support.

 


Here is the ICM and ignition box mounted in place. With my kit, I got a PS91 fireball coil. Removal and installation is obvious.. there are 4 bolts on the 4 corners of the coil just remove these and tilt the coil and pull it out after disconnecting the two-prong electrical connection. bolt the new coil in place and attach the coil harness from the kit that looks identical to the original. then attach the female rubber plug to the original. From the igniton box take the long wires with the two connectors on the end and attach them to the coil plug harnesses. you cannot get them backwards they wont fit any other way. its the short connector to the long connector and the long to the short.


Right now with the battery connected the car would start and run but the rev limiter wont work. To power the limiter find a 12+ volt source that is hot only when the key is on and during cranking.. i.e. the starter side of the starter solenoid. I personally went with an in cabin fuse to where its running off of one side of the fuse as to not overload the circuit but to draw only power, ( I had this setup from when I installed my oil accumulator and pre-luber.) with that hot wire run it to the yellow/white wire on the ignition box with the supplied harness. You now have a rev limiter. Dial the rev limiter to 3100 (3 on the first wheel and 1 on the second.) The rev limiter range is 3100-9900. Start the car and allow it to relearn all its settings and such. then get rev the engine to 3100. It shouldnt go past it. If it does, make sure the LED on the box is on and check all connections. Once you know it works, set it at whatever you wish. ( I set mine at 6000) You are ready to rumble! Total installation took an hour with a trip up to Auto Zone when I realized someone didnt return my ICM tool. As you can see it is very simplistic and worth the $159 i paid for it.

 

PERFORMANCE:

After installation, my friend brian and I took a drive to get the comp the relearn so i didnt step on it.....much. heh heh. I hadnt noticed much of a difference with him in it, (hes a weightlifter/football player... big guy) except that when I pushed in the clutch, and reved it, it stayed at the RPM for a split second longer than before. This is not a worry, its actually on the good side. After I dropped him off, I took a few blasts up the "test road" near my house. Wow, is all I can say. Advertised HP gain is around 14, so I expected 8. Since I couldn't dyno it I cant say for sure, but the rpms go up, and I go fast, but it seems to float. It works great and I bounced it on the limiter only once to make sure... its worth it if only a $160 rev-limiter, but you do get small gains that can be noticeable.

 

FINAL PICTURES:

Here is the final box installed before the big test.

 

Here is everything completed. As you can see, the coil looks stock but it is the newer one. Notice the orange and black connection to it instead of the red and black. For those wondering about the oil cooler and accumulator, there should be a write-up for that soon, but here are some pics of that.

Top-right. The shiny silver tube is the 1.5 QT oil accumulator from moroso. (I even got a battery named after me. the Vortex gel-cel) not the best picture but its the oil cooler. To the left is the front of the car. I have it mounted right behind the chrome pony about 2 inches from the radiator.


Hope this write-up helps.

 

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