TOOLS:
- Ford Ignition Control Module tool (found at any parts store socket
on one end, torx head on the other. A regular socket will work if you
feel like grounding down the exterior of it.) drill or punch (to make
a small hole to get the mounting screws to start.
- Phillips Screwdriver (to tighten the screws.)
- Wire crimpers and any other tool to move an obstacle depending on
where you mount it.
INSTALLATION:
I opted to mount the ignition box in a cool, dry place that would be out
of the way. I opted to place it on the passenger side fender right behind
the elbow for my cold air induction. It will be easiest to remove your
air box from the throttle body first but I opted to remove the ignition
control module first. First, disconnect the battery. Then if you change
the ICM, pull of the pluge connected to the end of the module, then just
use the special tool and remove the two screws holding it to the bracket.
be careful not to drop the screws.
Here is the ICM out of its harness. Get a clean rag and clean all of
the white goo off of the mounting plate.
Here is my new DynaMod ICM and grease packet. Use the supplied grease
and spread all over the metal backing plate to get a good connection.
This is the old module but it has white grease so it would show up,
the new one had clear. You get the idea. The new one is installed in reverse
order. Don't overtighten the bolts because you can strip them, just get
them snug.
Next, removed my cold air induction from the throttle body and from the
elbow. If you have the same setup the BBK CAI uses an 11mm nut with a
10 mm bolt head to take off the mass air flow sensor from the elbow. The
tube pulls off the throttle body by removing a hose clamp (screwdriver
or nutdriver.) Mounting the box is a no-brainer. hold the box up where
you want it. Use a fine-tipped marker to "dot" where the holes
are, and drill them out. Then, mount the box with the supplied screws.
With this location, I have the rev-limiter dial controls pointed up for
easy access. For the ground,use the single thick black wire and attach
the 3/8" eyelet to the end. for a ground connection, I used a factory
bolt that already had a ground wire on it, located on the core support.
Here is the ICM and ignition box mounted in place. With my kit, I got
a PS91 fireball coil. Removal and installation is obvious.. there are
4 bolts on the 4 corners of the coil just remove these and tilt the coil
and pull it out after disconnecting the two-prong electrical connection.
bolt the new coil in place and attach the coil harness from the kit that
looks identical to the original. then attach the female rubber plug to
the original. From the igniton box take the long wires with the two connectors
on the end and attach them to the coil plug harnesses. you cannot get
them backwards they wont fit any other way. its the short connector to
the long connector and the long to the short.
Right now with the battery connected the car would start and run but the
rev limiter wont work. To power the limiter find a 12+ volt source that
is hot only when the key is on and during cranking.. i.e. the starter
side of the starter solenoid. I personally went with an in cabin fuse
to where its running off of one side of the fuse as to not overload the
circuit but to draw only power, ( I had this setup from when I installed
my oil accumulator and pre-luber.) with that hot wire run it to the yellow/white
wire on the ignition box with the supplied harness. You now have a rev
limiter. Dial the rev limiter to 3100 (3 on the first wheel and 1 on the
second.) The rev limiter range is 3100-9900. Start the car and allow it
to relearn all its settings and such. then get rev the engine to 3100.
It shouldnt go past it. If it does, make sure the LED on the box is on
and check all connections. Once you know it works, set it at whatever
you wish. ( I set mine at 6000) You are ready to rumble! Total installation
took an hour with a trip up to Auto Zone when I realized someone didnt
return my ICM tool. As you can see it is very simplistic and worth the
$159 i paid for it.
PERFORMANCE:
After installation, my friend brian and I took a drive
to get the comp the relearn so i didnt step on it.....much. heh heh. I
hadnt noticed much of a difference with him in it, (hes a weightlifter/football
player... big guy) except that when I pushed in the clutch, and reved
it, it stayed at the RPM for a split second longer than before. This is
not a worry, its actually on the good side. After I dropped him off, I
took a few blasts up the "test road" near my house. Wow, is
all I can say. Advertised HP gain is around 14, so I expected 8. Since
I couldn't dyno it I cant say for sure, but the rpms go up, and I go fast,
but it seems to float. It works great and I bounced it on the limiter
only once to make sure... its worth it if only a $160 rev-limiter, but
you do get small gains that can be noticeable.
FINAL PICTURES:
Here is the final box installed before the big test.
Here is everything completed. As you can see, the coil looks
stock but it is the newer one. Notice the orange and black connection
to it instead of the red and black. For those wondering about the oil
cooler and accumulator, there should be a write-up for that soon, but
here are some pics of that.
Top-right. The shiny silver tube is the 1.5 QT oil accumulator
from moroso. (I even got a battery named after me. the Vortex gel-cel)
not the best picture but its the oil cooler. To the left is the front
of the car. I have it mounted right behind the chrome pony about 2 inches
from the radiator.
Hope this write-up helps.
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