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Details:
Here's the info for the swap and the complete parts list.
- Transmission w/bell housing and manual dust shield
- clutch fork, cable and quadrant, cable dust cover for bell housing
- clutch and flywheel
- pilot bushing (autos don't have this)
- driveshaft
- shifter, shifter boot, tranny tunnel dust cover
- standard pedal assembly
- standard ecm harness
- standard computer
- standard map sensor ford part #f2vy12b579a
- reuse the autos crossmember because the 94-95s are the same as standards
Start by removing your positive battery terminal. Remove the automatic
by first taking out the h-pipe and removing the tranny cooling lines,
and electrical connections as well as the driveshaft and starter.
Now remove the torque converter bolts by rotating the crank at the harmonic
balancer bolt in front of the engine. Remove the tranny crossmember and
then the bellhousing bolts. The 170lb tranny will then be free. Now you
can concentrate on the interior removal of the auto shifter and cable
assembly.
Remove the center console and the part of the dash below the steering
wheel. The shifter has four bolts to remove it and you must disconnect
the cable.
Wiggle the whole assembly as it is a tight fit in the trans tunnel. The
shifter cable can be removed from the underside of the steering column
so it doesn't lock out the steering wheel. While your down there remove
the pedal assembly by removing the four bolts that retain the bracket,
the brake light switch and shifter cable which is for the shifter lockout.
Installation is the reverse of removal and don't forget to plug in the
brake light switch. Now you can proceed to swap the computer by removing
the passenger kick panel and undoing the 10mm bolt that connects the harness
to the computer.
Installation is then the reverse of this step. The last interior mod
is to the hole in the trans tunnel. You must trim 1.5 inches of metal
from the front portion of the shifter hole ( area closest to the dashboard)
then drill the two new holes for the dust boot by bolting the boot to
the two rearward holes, center punch the front newly needed holes, remove
boot and drill. Now go under the hood and remove the ecm harness located
on the passengers side firewall. Also at this time replace the autos map
sensor with the new standard piece. Now its time to go back underneath
and get to work on the heavy stuff. At this point remove the tranny cooling
lines from the radiator and then completely out of the car.
It would be a good idea for guys with a high mileage car to replace the
rear main seal now while everything's out. The pilot bushing is the first
part to be installed. This is to be tapped in where the tranny's input
shaft will connect to the crank. It helps center the tranny's input shaft
to prevent damage to the tranny and clutch. Use a rubber mallet and tap
it in carefully. Now install the dust shield and the flywheel with bolts
torqued to 60ft-lbs. Now install the clutch and pressure plate torquing
the bolts to 35ft-lbs. Install the clutch fork with throw out bearing
in your bellhousing. Your now ready to bolt up the tranny and bellhousing.
Torque the bellhousing bolts to 50ft-lbs. Now install the tranny crossmember
and torque to 75ft-lbs. Reinstall the starter. and connect harness to
tranny. Reinstall driveshaft and h-pipe and reconnect o2 sensors. Now
install and adjust clutch cable. Add
tranny fluid then install shifter.
Finish reinstalling the interior pieces. Reconnect positive battery terminal.
Start car and test brakes for proper operation and make any necessary
adjustments. Job is now complete.
This is a minimum 2 day undertaking for even the best mechanic so plan
accordingly and get as much help as you can. When I tackled this project
I didn't know about the map sensor and when I first started my car up
it sounded fine with the auto sensor. When I drove it I found out that
anything over 4000 caused a major bog. Once i obtained this part after
a diagnostic test told me this was the problem and $165 cash was spent
on it from ford ( factory only part with no aftermarket available) the
problem was solved.
Muscle mustangs and Fast Fords did an article on this in he April 2001
issue (refer to this for good pictures but follow my instructions as some
of theirs are inaccurate) and stated you can use the factory auto computer
with the standard.
WRONG!! this causes the worst driveabilty problems I've ever experienced.
The car hesitates at 65mph (exactly when overdrive speed is reached).
Don't make the mistake of not replacing the computer to save money. It
only makes the car perform worse. My car has now picked up from a 16.0
@86 to a 14.6 @95 on street tires with the same mods as the auto had.
Big difference. The first time at the track after the swap I still had
the auto computer in because I didn't know any better and ran 15.9 @76
with horrible pickup and no top end charge. My 14.6 was after swapping
the computer and the numbers don't lie. The car pulls like an animal now
and I expect 14.3's are going to happen with better traction. Any questions
about the swap or obtaining parts fee free to contact me. Hope this article
will be of use to someone. I wish I had this knowledge before I did the
swap.
Please let me know when and where I may view this on your site. Thanks
for letting me submit this to your tech site.
sn95's rule!! any further info you may need don't hesitate to e-mail
me. Paul
my SN95 kicks A!? and #33 rules
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