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SN95: AODE to Tremec swap


This article discusses an AODE to tremec swap. You can also view our tech article with picture on converting your AODE to a T-5 here.


Here's the info for the swap and the complete parts list.

  • Transmission w/bell housing and manual dust shield
  • clutch fork, cable and quadrant, cable dust cover for bell housing
  • clutch and flywheel
  • pilot bushing (autos don't have this)
  • driveshaft
  • shifter, shifter boot, tranny tunnel dust cover
  • standard pedal assembly
  • standard ecm harness
  • standard computer
  • standard map sensor ford part #f2vy12b579a
  • reuse the autos crossmember because the 94-95s are the same as standards

Start by removing your positive battery terminal. Remove the automatic by first taking out the h-pipe and removing the tranny cooling lines, and electrical connections as well as the driveshaft and starter.

Now remove the torque converter bolts by rotating the crank at the harmonic balancer bolt in front of the engine. Remove the tranny crossmember and then the bellhousing bolts. The 170lb tranny will then be free. Now you can concentrate on the interior removal of the auto shifter and cable assembly.

Remove the center console and the part of the dash below the steering wheel. The shifter has four bolts to remove it and you must disconnect the cable.

Wiggle the whole assembly as it is a tight fit in the trans tunnel. The shifter cable can be removed from the underside of the steering column so it doesn't lock out the steering wheel. While your down there remove the pedal assembly by removing the four bolts that retain the bracket, the brake light switch and shifter cable which is for the shifter lockout. Installation is the reverse of removal and don't forget to plug in the brake light switch. Now you can proceed to swap the computer by removing the passenger kick panel and undoing the 10mm bolt that connects the harness to the computer.

Installation is then the reverse of this step. The last interior mod is to the hole in the trans tunnel. You must trim 1.5 inches of metal from the front portion of the shifter hole ( area closest to the dashboard) then drill the two new holes for the dust boot by bolting the boot to the two rearward holes, center punch the front newly needed holes, remove boot and drill. Now go under the hood and remove the ecm harness located on the passengers side firewall. Also at this time replace the autos map sensor with the new standard piece. Now its time to go back underneath and get to work on the heavy stuff. At this point remove the tranny cooling lines from the radiator and then completely out of the car.

It would be a good idea for guys with a high mileage car to replace the rear main seal now while everything's out. The pilot bushing is the first part to be installed. This is to be tapped in where the tranny's input shaft will connect to the crank. It helps center the tranny's input shaft to prevent damage to the tranny and clutch. Use a rubber mallet and tap it in carefully. Now install the dust shield and the flywheel with bolts torqued to 60ft-lbs. Now install the clutch and pressure plate torquing the bolts to 35ft-lbs. Install the clutch fork with throw out bearing in your bellhousing. Your now ready to bolt up the tranny and bellhousing. Torque the bellhousing bolts to 50ft-lbs. Now install the tranny crossmember and torque to 75ft-lbs. Reinstall the starter. and connect harness to tranny. Reinstall driveshaft and h-pipe and reconnect o2 sensors. Now install and adjust clutch cable. Add
tranny fluid then install shifter.

Finish reinstalling the interior pieces. Reconnect positive battery terminal. Start car and test brakes for proper operation and make any necessary adjustments. Job is now complete.

This is a minimum 2 day undertaking for even the best mechanic so plan accordingly and get as much help as you can. When I tackled this project I didn't know about the map sensor and when I first started my car up it sounded fine with the auto sensor. When I drove it I found out that anything over 4000 caused a major bog. Once i obtained this part after a diagnostic test told me this was the problem and $165 cash was spent on it from ford ( factory only part with no aftermarket available) the problem was solved.

Muscle mustangs and Fast Fords did an article on this in he April 2001 issue (refer to this for good pictures but follow my instructions as some of theirs are inaccurate) and stated you can use the factory auto computer with the standard.

WRONG!! this causes the worst driveabilty problems I've ever experienced. The car hesitates at 65mph (exactly when overdrive speed is reached). Don't make the mistake of not replacing the computer to save money. It only makes the car perform worse. My car has now picked up from a 16.0 @86 to a 14.6 @95 on street tires with the same mods as the auto had.

Big difference. The first time at the track after the swap I still had the auto computer in because I didn't know any better and ran 15.9 @76 with horrible pickup and no top end charge. My 14.6 was after swapping the computer and the numbers don't lie. The car pulls like an animal now and I expect 14.3's are going to happen with better traction. Any questions about the swap or obtaining parts fee free to contact me. Hope this article will be of use to someone. I wish I had this knowledge before I did the swap.

Please let me know when and where I may view this on your site. Thanks for letting me submit this to your tech site.

sn95's rule!! any further info you may need don't hesitate to e-mail me. Paul

my SN95 kicks A!? and #33 rules

Article by: Paul E-Mail

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