Article by: GTRaptor Profile
The 4 link rear Mustang suspension, is a simple, low cost and effective
street suspension, but it is not good at all from a performance
Equipped with sheetmetal arms with rubber bushings, the 4 link
Mustang suspension is at best a relatively good performer on the
street, but when it comes to deliver performance at the Drag strip
or road course it really sucks.
The sheetmetal arms and soft rubber bushings deliver a soft ride
and low noise combination but they also allow the rear axle to move
side to side, which is felt as an unpredictable "rear steering"
on hard cornering. On the Drag strip, the soft bushings allow front-to
rear axle movement which translates into low tire-to-ground hook
and bad E/Ts at the 1/4 mile.
Installing aftermarket rear control arms is one of the most popular
suspension modifications available. Most performance control arms
are made of tubular steel sections with harder urethane or rubber
bushings which allow for a more precise and predictable handling.
Global West lower
control arms utilizes spherical aircraft bearings
on frame side and DEL-A-LUM (pronounced della-loom)
Bushings on axle to control rear end lateral movement
as well as fore and aft location. They allow full rear end articulation
without much bind, making them superior over most polyurethane based
control arms. GW arms also partially eliminate the need for a panhard
rod because lateral location is already provided by it's unique
control arm design.
This control arm will work in all applications. They allow the
suspension to pivot without much bind and provide zero fore and
aft defection. This type of control arm will provide stable straight
line accelerate, reduced corner exit oversteer, and immediate load
These arms will not allow lateral movement. This is achieved through
the design of the control arm and because the factory control arms
At $325 retail a set, these arms are the some of the most expensive
, but they do provide what other brands only promise: Exceptional
Drag, RoadRace and Street handling at a reasonable cost. Global
West also sells their "Traclink" a "front-aft"
location device which mostly works as a Torque Arm.
This one coupled to the LCAs will improve acceleration and reduce
nose dive while eliminating the need of the stock upper control
arm, which only adds more complexity and pivot points to the already
weak mustang rear end.
For dedicated Road Racing we advice to get a better setup, probably
using a Panhard Rod or an Independant Rear Suspension (IRS).
About the Car:
Our 95GT "Raptor" already has a set of Linear rate MRP
Racing Indy Springs with 1.5" drop, the struts and shocks are
TOKICO non adjustable units.
The linear springs have a rating of 700/170 pounds front and rear
and are just what GW recommends to use with their LCAs.
The LCA's we bought
USED for $200, in pretty good condition, we only needed to repaint
cause they had a bit of rust.
Place car on jackstands, the car should be lifted
from the frame so that the axle is free to hang down. Remove the
rear wheels. Remove the quad shocks and the 4 bolts securing the
rear stabilizer bar. Detach the ABS lead on the rear lower control
arms. Remove the parking brake cable clips and the pinion snubber.
Place another jack
on the rear axle differential housing and raise it. Now remove the
axle side shock bolts and nuts. Loosen the upper arms differential
side bolts and remove, this will allow the differential to drop
completely and makes it easier to remove the lower arms and springs.
Lower the jack at the differential and remove the
springs. Be careful not to lower the rear too much or you can break
the rear brake line that sits at top of the differential case. Remove
the lower arm-to-axle pivot bolt and nut and remove the springs.
Now remove the arms from the frame side.
Install the GW lower
arms frame side bolts, do not tighten them yet, install the lower
arm spring isolator pad and put the springs back in place. Now raise
the differential to align the lower arms to the axle mounting points.
Use a small floor jack to raise the lower arms into position.
With the lowers
in place, reinstall the uppers, stabilizer bar and all brake and
ABS lines. Raise the car by the axle until the suspension is fully
loaded as if it was on the ground. Tighten all control arms nuts
The complete install took me and a friend mechanic about 2.5 hours,
the hardest part was to reinstall the lower control arms but the
whole process is easy if you have all the tools which consist of
a good set of wrenches and sockets (long and short) one large floor
jack, jackstands and a small jack. (or a ramp and jack)
2 people will work faster as each can do one side at the same time,
but a loner can do it probably in 4 hours. Total install price for
me was $20 which consisted of lots of sodas and some beer to celebrate.
Expect to pay about $250 from a good shop.
Now about the handling.....i have to say that the car now feels
completely different, the rear wont fishtail anymore, it feels more
predictable and even softer. Wheelhop is now gone and brake nose
dive has been reduced a lot.
I still have to ride the car under more aggressive conditions,
but im expecting lots of improvement.
The noise levels have increased about 25%, you can hear the rear
whine a bit on 1st and second gear, but once you are rolling the
noise is gonne. Potholes and bumps also transmit more noise inside
the cockpit, but it is not annoying at all, and with time i think
you can get used to it.
Overall i will rate this modification as a 100% improvement over
stock, the GWest arms are just terrific, their quality delivers
what is promised.