To complete the installation you'll need
the following tools:
- Soldering gun
- Wire cutters
- Wire stripper
- Pry bar or LONG screwdriver
- basic socket or combo wrench set
- Electrical or polyken tape
- Plastic convolute ( not required )
- Locktite 242 ( not required )
- Flat file, Dremel, or die grinder ( Not needed if using March alt brkt
- Multi meter ( not NEEDED, but very handy )
I've done several 3G installations using an alternator for a 94-95 Mustang
into a fox bodied car. This was my first experience with Mr. Alternator
small case 3G. The case of the alternator comes with an optional powdercoating
that really makes it stand out in the crowd. The alternator also comes
with a stator wire and connector and two insulated terminals. Installation
is easy and can be completed in 1-2 hours depending on your level of experience
( especially in soldering! )
First thing to do is disconnect the negative battery cable and remove
the accessory drive belt. The belt can be removed by prying on the tensioner
to remove the tension on the belt, then the belt can be slipped off of
the alternator pulley. Once that's done, remove the stock wiring from
the old alternator. One of the factory connectors will be reused, the
shorter connector with 2 rounded corners. Be careful not to crack it on
removal. The other longer "spade" type connector will not be
used so it's faster and easier to just cut the wires at the connectors.
Next, unbolt the 2 bolts holding the factory alternator in place. This
will allow you to pivot the alternator back and forth in it's bracket
to remove it.
Now, trial fit the new alternator into the bracket. You'll have to hold
the upper radiator hose out of the way to get a good view of where ( if
any ) interference will be. On this car, there was a slight interference
between alternator and bracket at the lower inboard alternator case bolt
boss. The contact was minor, and 30 seconds with a dremel on high speed
Once the bracket has been clearanced ( if needed ), you
can bolt the alternator in place. A new bolt will be needed for the top
hole. You can reuse the bottom bolt. At this point, once it has been verified
that there is no interference, pull the bolts back out, locktite them
and torque them down.
Now for the electrical portion. There were two connectors attached to
the stock alternator, a longer one with "spade" type terminals
and a shorter connector with 2 rounded edges. On the rounded connector
there is a white wire. Cut this wire at about 3-4" from the connector.
This is where the supplied stator wire will be soldered on. The stator
wire is the supplied length of white wire with a gray plastic connector.
In the pictures below, there is a green wire, a yellow wire, and the center
stator wire which has been covered in black shrink wrap. This is the wire
you'll be soldering onto.
Now reconnect the battery and reinstall the belt. A quick voltage check
across the battery terminals should read 12-13volts. Start the car. Now
there should be 14+ volts.
The finished product looks great and after 2 weeks, has performed perfectly!