how to remove fuel pump on 94+ - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-25-2003 Thread Starter
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Question how to remove fuel pump on 94+

THis is the one thing i was dreading doing during all this work im doing, cause i hate working underneath the car. anyway, as stated in my sig. my car is a 94, and i cant find my haynes manual so i have to ask you guys, how do you remove and replace the fuel pump, the complete installation. thanks for the help

-Robert


DEAD: 1994 GT (a pine tree fell on it during a windstorm...great huh)

NEW: 1995 GT Convertible, Triple Black; receiving all the goodies from the 1994 gt and some more stuff too
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-25-2003
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Well you dont have to work under your car for too long.. you pull the pump harness off the top of the tank, pull the tank vent hose and any other wires attached (probably but 1 or 2) and lower the tank, then using a brass punch tap the lock ring to pull out the sending unit and installation is just the reversal... need more in-depth than that?
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-25-2003
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check this link out...it'll help...

also some cool stuff and stories on the site...i did my F/P gage on the cowl from this link..

good luck....i have a Walbro 190 sitting in the garage to install this spring...along with heads and RRs..

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../scinpump.html
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-25-2003
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Try to do it with little gas in the tank. Remember no sparks of any sort. You may want to disconnect your battery just to be safe at the beginning. You may want to look at the sending unit for the fuel gauge while you have it apart. Also, I'd make sure that I change the fuel filter while you are back there.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-28-2003
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removing fuel pump

Not real difficult, just finished that about 2 months ago. First make sure you have a set of the clamp tools for the fuel lines. These are tools that release the clamps on the lines near the tank. I would just buy the complete set at Kragen, Napa, or whatever parts store is around. I went ahead and disconnected the screws at the filler so it would drop down to make disconnecting that hose easier.
ALSO - VERY IMPORTANT Because of the age of the rubber seal where the filler hose goes into the tank, it ripped on me, and was a special order item from Ford (just a note, this may not happen, but $12.00 maybe cheap insurance to just get this ahead of time).

Continuing - The rest of the removal was pretty easy and straightforward. Just removing bolts, dropping tank, using high pressure air to clean off the top of the tank (so nothing gets inside when you take the top off, no sparks, removing the tension plate, remove the pump, replace pump, watch the pain in the *ss seal, reverse directions.
Good Luck
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-29-2003
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OK, keep in mind that this is the instructions for a pre-94 stang, but it should be fairly similar.....I typed this out of a Haynes manual a couple of years ago...hope it helps (knew I kept this for a reason )

ELECTRIC IN-TANK FUEL PUMP (FUEL-INJECTED MODELS)......duh

1. Relieve the fuel system Pressure:

*a) The fuel pump switch - some times called the "inertia switch" - which shuts off fuel to the engine in the event of a collision, affords a simple and convenient means by which fuel pressure can be relieved before servicing fuel injection components. The switch is located in the luggage compartment (trunk), in a variety of locations (Illustration show it in two places 1. underneath the trunk latch or on the side under the drivers side trunk lid hinge) and is usually covered by the carpet which comes up the sides of the trunk. In some cases the wiring from the fuel pump to the fuel pump switch can be trace to help locate the switch.
b) Unplug the inertia switch electrical connector.
c) Start the engine and allow it to fun until it stops. This should take only a few seconds.
d) The fuel system pressure is now relieved. When your finished working on the fuel system, simply plug the electrical connector back into the switch and push the reset button on the top of the switch.

2. Remove the fuel tank.
3. Using a brass punch or wooden dowel only, tap the lock ring counter-clockwise until it is loose.
4. Carefully pull the fuel pump/sending unit assembly from the tank.
5. Remove the old lock ring gasket and discard it.
6. If you're planning to re-install the original fuel pump/sending unit, remove the strainer by prying it off with a screwdriver wash it in clean solvent, then push it back onto the metal pipe on the end of the pump. If you're installing a new pump/sending unit, the assembly will include a new strainer...... Aren't you glad you just read that.....sure glad I typed it......****
7. Clean the fuel pump mounting flange, the tank mounting surface and seal ring groove.
8. Installation is the reverse of the removal. Apply a thin coat of heavy grease to the new lock gasket to hold it in place during assembly.

Sound easy enough....just be patient, it is time consuming but really not THAT bad. The book did also have instructions for a "chassis mount fuel pump", but the only pump I have seen like that on a SN95 was a Vortec unit.
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