1994 Mustang 5-speed transmission removal! - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2008 Thread Starter
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Exclamation 1994 Mustang 5-speed transmission removal!

Hey guys im in the middle of removing my transmission right now. it is a 94 mustang gt with a 5-speed. ok well i have everything takin apart the tranny is jacked up a little bit and now im in the process of removing the bolts from the engine. i was wondering how the heck am i supposed to remove the third bolt up on the left side. the one that is at the top of the bellhousing and the second bolt on the top on the right of the bellhousing. it seems that space is very very limited and i can not really get anything goin with these bolts. any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2008
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Hey guys im in the middle of removing my transmission right now. it is a 94 mustang gt with a 5-speed. ok well i have everything takin apart the tranny is jacked up a little bit and now im in the process of removing the bolts from the engine. i was wondering how the heck am i supposed to remove the third bolt up on the left side. the one that is at the top of the bellhousing and the second bolt on the top on the right of the bellhousing. it seems that space is very very limited and i can not really get anything goin with these bolts. any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
First off, spray the bolts down with some sort of penetrating catalyst (PB Blaster, WD-40 etc) to make it easier. If you have a really long socket wrench extension, it should be able to grab the bolts no problem, thats what I used.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2008 Thread Starter
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long extension dont work really. anyone else have any other suggestions
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2008
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swinging head socket, 5/8 or 9/16's or 15mm I beleive... long extension... drop the tranny mount support... to get the extra space.. IM doing it right now myself done it thousands of times... Its 15mm for my fox body 90".... let me know if that works...
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2008
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The bolt head size is a 16mm. if you are unable to reach it with a extension and swivel and are having trouble use a jack by lowering the tranny and engine giving a larger gap between the body and bellhousing.

air tools work wonders, if you have access to them.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2008 Thread Starter
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ya i just bought a swivel and im calling it a day today. ive been out there for 6 hours just taking everything apart. h pipe didnt wanna let go of my headers. lol. but ya im ganna wake up early tomorrow and give it another go. thanks guys
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2008
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tranny removal

I have a '94 GT with an AODE. I just got done removing, rebuilding, and reinstalling mine. Those top bolts on the bell housing are a major PITA. What I did was took off the entire intake manifold. Ended needing to replace the EGR valve but it needed it anyway. Once the intake manifold was off I just used a LONG 16mm closed end wrench. Wrenching does make it take longer and destroys your arms but over all it was pretty quick and easy. THe PB Blaster will work wonders, especially on the bellhousing dowel pins. Mine gave me alittle trouble but not too bad.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2008
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tranny removel

one more thing don't worry about the H-pipe. I had to literally take a sawzall and cut mine out. Got new exhaust anyway but thats seems like a normal thing for some reason.

bye bye rice boy
1994 Mustang GT Convertible
HAD:1969 Sport Roof,2004 Mach 1,2004 Super 6

TKO-600, Fidanza Spec Stage 3 Clutch, FRPP Alluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73's, FRPP 31-Spline axles, Auburn Pro 31-Spline Diff, FRPP upper bushings, FRPP T/A cover, Extended studs, 10-point 'cage,
New Floor-pan with built in sub-frame connectors
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2008 Thread Starter
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thanks guys for the advice. another thing im ganna be removing the pilot bearing. can i remove it without taking the bellhousing and clutch and pressureplate off. can i just reach in the middle of all of them??
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No... the pilot bearing needs to be removed with a puller tool and you can rent one at the auto parts store. While you are replacing the pilot bearing, check the rear main seal most people recommend replacing the seal. Another part to replace is the throw out bearing they are notorious for going out.

were you able to get the upper bell housing bolts out?

it maybe easier to remove the tranny by itself.

why did you cut the pipes aren't they 8 bolts and two O2 sensors?
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tranny issues

yes 8 bolts and 2 O2 sensors. Had to cut them out because I kept breaking sockets and tools trying to get the bolts out. The car is 14 years old and has 14 years of who knows what on it. I tried everythng, PB Blaster, WD-40 and got nothing. So to save headache I just cut it all out

bye bye rice boy
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HAD:1969 Sport Roof,2004 Mach 1,2004 Super 6

TKO-600, Fidanza Spec Stage 3 Clutch, FRPP Alluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73's, FRPP 31-Spline axles, Auburn Pro 31-Spline Diff, FRPP upper bushings, FRPP T/A cover, Extended studs, 10-point 'cage,
New Floor-pan with built in sub-frame connectors
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-25-2008 Thread Starter
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alright guys i got the tranny out yesterday. i made the mistake of trying to take the tranny with the bellhouseing out at the same time. once i took the tranny out the bellhousing was a breaze. i called it a day becuase i had stuff to do. but ive already got the old pilot bearing pulled. ive got a replacement already. and ive also got a new T/O bearing. the old bearing spins extremely free as if no grease or anything and it seems to be unbalanced. it makes my hand shake when it spins and seems to spinning in an oval shape.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008 Thread Starter
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got my car done yesterday. everything seems to work fine and went back together perfect. thanks for all the help guys. next time i do this it shouldnt take me 3 days of 6-7 hours of work each day lol
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I hope you put a new clutch in there while you were at it. Something like that it's good to take care of stuff like that while it's apart. Otherwise if your clutch goes out on you in a couple thousand miles you'll be wishing you would have gone ahead and done it.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-27-2008 Thread Starter
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well i had the clutch replaced recently and the dude who worked on my car did things kinda half ass. and thats why i had a the sqeack on my car. my clutch fork was jacked up and was on part way and the T/O bearing was completly unbalanced it had a wobble to it. so i ended up replacing my clutch fork, T/O bearing, and pilot bearing. and the sqeak is completly gone and my clutch actually feels a little different, prolly becuase my clutch fork before was just hangin by one clip on that little ball it swivels off of, plus i didn't really have any cash for a new clutch. if it goes out real soon its no biggie. i need the practice
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