From experience, I noticed a little flatness in power from the Bosch Platinums. I moved to Autolite 24's so I could advance timing, and she had idle troubles. Finally, now, I'm on my second set of Autolite 25's, and she (95 GT) loves them.
Be sure to remove the EGR plumbing on the passenger side. Your life will be so much easier with it out. The same goes for the strut tower brace. Take the time to remove it, even me with small arms had more trouble with it in.
Having the proper tools is also a must. Get a U-Joint, and some various sized extensions. If you can, get a "wobble" extension which is a scaled down version of the U-Joint.
If you're cringing on spending some $$$, just think of these items as oil change tools. You pay more up front, but you use them sooooo many times over. Plus, I guaruntee that you'll use those U-joints/extensions/wobble extensions on other endeavors into the engine.
First time, with improper tools, it took me four hours. Yes, FOUR hours. I didn't remove the strut brace, or the EGR tubing, and I just had my 5.0 for a few days. I went from inline 4 (Saturn) to pushrod V-8. That was a shock!
In my opinion, the number 8 cylinder (drivers side, furthest back) is the hardest. Even with everything removed, its facing away from you, and is always an awkward angle with the oil dipstick in the way. I find that if you work from the nose of the car, and reach back past the oil dipstick, its a little easier to work. But, that's just me.
Whatever you do, be careful when removing spark plug boots. For one, when you're tugging with all of your might and it comes loose, you will lose skin unless you're more careful. Secondly, if you pull it in the wrong way, you'll yank the terminal right out of the boot, leaving you with a pain in the ASS to fix. To solve this for next time, use gobs of dielectric grease inside of the plug boot. Buy a whole large tube of it, you'll be glad you did.
Anti-sieze goes without saying.