How hard is it to change spark plugs a 1995 Mustang GTt?
Discuss How hard is it to change spark plugs a 1995 Mustang GTt? on AllFordMustangs.com, the place for Mustang enthusiasts.
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I use Boesh Platium spark plugs.... noone on this forum seem to like them .... but i havent had a problem yet....
Feel free to flame..... just speaking from my experience..... course the plugs only have bout 4 or 5k miles on them so far..........
'95 gt, 5.0, 60k, 5pd, red, cobra Rs, Ford Racing clutch, 3.73's
From experience, I noticed a little flatness in power from the Bosch Platinums. I moved to Autolite 24's so I could advance timing, and she had idle troubles. Finally, now, I'm on my second set of Autolite 25's, and she (95 GT) loves them.
Be sure to remove the EGR plumbing on the passenger side. Your life will be so much easier with it out. The same goes for the strut tower brace. Take the time to remove it, even me with small arms had more trouble with it in.
Having the proper tools is also a must. Get a U-Joint, and some various sized extensions. If you can, get a "wobble" extension which is a scaled down version of the U-Joint.
If you're cringing on spending some $$$, just think of these items as oil change tools. You pay more up front, but you use them sooooo many times over. Plus, I guaruntee that you'll use those U-joints/extensions/wobble extensions on other endeavors into the engine.
First time, with improper tools, it took me four hours. Yes, FOUR hours. I didn't remove the strut brace, or the EGR tubing, and I just had my 5.0 for a few days. I went from inline 4 (Saturn) to pushrod V-8. That was a shock!
In my opinion, the number 8 cylinder (drivers side, furthest back) is the hardest. Even with everything removed, its facing away from you, and is always an awkward angle with the oil dipstick in the way. I find that if you work from the nose of the car, and reach back past the oil dipstick, its a little easier to work. But, that's just me.
Whatever you do, be careful when removing spark plug boots. For one, when you're tugging with all of your might and it comes loose, you will lose skin unless you're more careful. Secondly, if you pull it in the wrong way, you'll yank the terminal right out of the boot, leaving you with a pain in the ASS to fix. To solve this for next time, use gobs of dielectric grease inside of the plug boot. Buy a whole large tube of it, you'll be glad you did.
For me the passenger side plug in the back (#4) is the hardest. I did the dumb thing of hooking the nitrous up before I changed the plugs. I have wires running everywhere, so I couldn't take off anything but the intake tube. But, its done and I'm happy.
97 Cobra #777 Blk/Blk
ProCharger P600B 7psi w/3 core intercooler, off road x-pipe, flows, pro kit, oil separator mod.
I would have to say that #4 is the hardest because of the EGR tube. I have a set of GT-40p heads and the plug angles are different. I do have some troubles on the drivers side because of the angle against the headers.
13.4@106mph (on old 302, no ET's on stroker yet)
'94 GT 347 Stroker, TFS stage 2 cam (.542 lift), AFR 185 heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 30 lb injectors, 77mm Pro-M, Fox Accufab 75mm Throttle Body, 255lph fuel pump, Mac fox style Long Tube headers, Tremec TKO, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears , Flowmaster 2 chamber, chrome Cobra R 17x9's, Steeda radiator, Eibach Sportline springs, Tweecer RT