Need help changing out a distributor on sn95 mustang gt. Please! - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009 Thread Starter
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Talking Need help changing out a distributor on sn95 mustang gt. Please!

So it finally came to haunt me today. The infamous pick up coil going bad. After spending the entire day figuring what it could be, I finally pinpointed the problem to the pick up coil, (with the help of my mechanic Ray Choi). The only thing is that it looks like changing out the pick up coil is a pain so I just went ahead and bought a new distributor with the new pick up coil inside it. However....I want to change this out A.S.A.P. but I need to know the right steps to doing so. This is what I know and have so far, but I need the blanks to be filled in. If anyone can help me out I would GREATLY APPRECIATE IT. Here is what I know.....

-You have to mark where the rotor is comparable to the cap and distributor as well as on the motor itself (close to where the distributor is)

-I went ahead and bought the right tool to unscrew the bolt that is hard to get to and also bought a timing light to adjust the timing later on.

Here is my dilema..................

-I heard that you need to set the rotor top dead center where the #1 spark plug goes on the distributor cap.

-I also know that when taking out the rotor, I should not mess with anything on the engine cycle manually.

- I also need to slide in the new distributor and somehow adjust it to 10 degrees with the time gun. (Still having a hard time understanding this...I may be missing some steps).

Here is the biggie....HOW THE HECK DO I DO THAT? Sounds easy but man I am just wanting to get ALL of the details straight before I proceed. Is there anything else I need to know. I am having a hard time understanding the concept of the #1 spark plug and engine cycle.

Can anyone explain this to me or just simply EXPLAIN IN FULL DETAIL how to change out the distributor and timing it correctly? I would appreciate it very...very..very much. Thank you for taking the time to read this and I hope the responses would also help others in need.

Sincerely,

A Mustang Fanatic in desperate Help!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009
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Dizzy Installation....

Remove all spark plugs

Hand crank engine untill the timing marks are in the correct position.

Make sure #1 piston is up. The rockers should be loose on #1 and tight on #6

Drop the distributer in, make sure you have swing room for the vacum advance.

Pull the cap see where the rotor is. That is #1.

If you want to change it pull the distributor out and use a long large screw driver to spin the oil pump shaft a little at a time untill the distributor drops where you like.

Then use one spark plug and the #1 wire and ground it to the exhaust manifold

Turn the ignition on but do not crank.

Turn the distriubtor gently back and forth untill the plug fires.

Stop the distributor exactly when it fires, tighten it down and your timing will be near perfect.


this is how you adjust your timing.....

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...856-post1.html
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009
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this is the way i change the dist............................................be st way to swap a dist is remove dist cap, bump engine over so that the rotor is pointing straight back or a referance point that you wont forget. [straight back] loosen and remove dist hold down and bolt pull up on dist and notice that the rotor turns when removing, when installing dist turn it to the area that it was when removing it because when you reinstall it it will turn when putting it back in , as long as the dist is full seated and rotor is pointing straight back as old dist was you will be ok and notice where the body of dist was positioned before you removed you old one, ps must remove the spout plug before you time the engine with a timing light . @ 10* btdc, factory spec big G
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009
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this is the way i change the dist............................................be st way to swap a dist is remove dist cap, bump engine over so that the rotor is pointing straight back or a referance point that you wont forget. [straight back] loosen and remove dist hold down and bolt pull up on dist and notice that the rotor turns when removing, when installing dist turn it to the area that it was when removing it because when you reinstall it it will turn when putting it back in , as long as the dist is full seated and rotor is pointing straight back as old dist was you will be ok and notice where the body of dist was positioned before you removed you old one, ps must remove the spout plug before you time the engine with a timing light . @ 10* btdc, factory spec big G
That's pretty much how I changed mine. Gotta love Ford for putting their distributor right there where you can actually get to it!

When I pulled the cap off mine it was already pointing straight back (towards the back of the car). I pulled the old one out and had to fight with the new one to get it in, but you'll notice the teeth on the gear are slanted so you have to aim it just right. Get it down there and just wiggle the rotor just slightly until you feel it catch the right groove and it will slide right in. DO NOT FORCE IT IN! Just be patient with it.

-1994 Mustang GT "The Red Baron": 3.73 gears,K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009
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You bought a new distributor... is it another stock type or aftermarket?
And there's several ways the others said to get the new one in there, any of them will work.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009 Thread Starter
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You guys ROCK! Man, here I was scratching my head, trying to read blueprints of this damn distributor to see how it all comes together and you guys made it happen. Thank you ALL for the information.

I am glad I talked with the experts. I didn't know that the rotor will keep moving while taking out the distributor. I did see my mechanic do that once on a friends car and I also remember him asking to crank the engine just right(I guess he was aligning the rotor).

BTW, how much does that rotor move when pulling it out and will it go clock-wise or counter clock-wise(just so that I know what to expect). Big G, I had a hard time understanding your method to time the automobile. I know its supposed to be at 10 degrees but how do you measure that...? This may sound stupid but do you get a protractor or something?

You also mentioned this....I had a hard time understanding this line...."loosen and remove dist hold down and bolt pull up on dist and notice that the rotor turns when removing" Do you just mean just pull off the distributor and notice the rotor move? One last thing....is the spout plug wire the harness wire from the pick up coil?


THANK YOU AGAIN. I APPRECIATE ALL TYPES OF INPUT. BTW...I'LL BE POSTING A WAY YOU CAN ILLUMINATE YOUR DASH AT A FRACTION OF THE COST. THANKS GUYS!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009
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Yes you just pull up on the distributor and you will see the rotor turning as it comes out!

The spout connector is on the wheel well by your MAF and air filter it is a small gray box plugged into the loom.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nzero21 View Post
You guys ROCK! Man, here I was scratching my head, trying to read blueprints of this damn distributor to see how it all comes together and you guys made it happen. Thank you ALL for the information.

I am glad I talked with the experts. I didn't know that the rotor will keep moving while taking out the distributor. I did see my mechanic do that once on a friends car and I also remember him asking to crank the engine just right(I guess he was aligning the rotor).

BTW, how much does that rotor move when pulling it out and will it go clock-wise or counter clock-wise(just so that I know what to expect). Big G, I had a hard time understanding your method to time the automobile. I know its supposed to be at 10 degrees but how do you measure that...? This may sound stupid but do you get a protractor or something?

You also mentioned this....I had a hard time understanding this line...."loosen and remove dist hold down and bolt pull up on dist and notice that the rotor turns when removing" Do you just mean just pull off the distributor and notice the rotor move? One last thing....is the spout plug wire the harness wire from the pick up coil?


THANK YOU AGAIN. I APPRECIATE ALL TYPES OF INPUT. BTW...I'LL BE POSTING A WAY YOU CAN ILLUMINATE YOUR DASH AT A FRACTION OF THE COST. THANKS GUYS!
I am by no means an Expert. I've just done this a couple of times, and it's fairly easy, just takes patience!

The hold down bolt is on the block by the shaft of the distributor that actually holds the distributor in place. You'll see it, just follow the distributor down till it reaches the block and you'll see a bolt holding down a tab. But you have to remove that to get the dis out. It's a 1/2" BTW.
The spout connector is where Pro Mustang said, it's on the wheel well under your air filter.
I believe the rotor will try to turn counter clockwise (when your facing the back of the car) when you pull it out and vise-versa for when you put it in.
If you have anymore questions feel free to ask!

-1994 Mustang GT "The Red Baron": 3.73 gears,K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009
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One suggestion I would say is once you get the bolt and holddown tab out and are trying to remove it, do it slowly so the rotor won't turn farther than it normally would. I've seen others yank them out and say DOH when trying to figure out where it was supposed to be. Doing it slowly will also show which way the rotor will be turning as the gears disengage, mark BOTH where the rotor is before you take it out and where it winds up being after you get it out, it'll turn around 1/3 turn by the time it's out. To put the other in, you start with the rotor where it is after it's out and then it'll be where it was before it was taken out.
To get 10 degrees, you need a timing light to find that out. Get it running and then attach the light to the battery connections and #1 spark plug wire. Aim it at the timing pointer near the balancer and read the marks. Rotate the distributor with the spout unplugged to get the right timing and then tighten down the holddown tab and bolt. Recheck the timing to make sure the distributor didn't turn while tightening it down. If it's still where it's set, put the spout back in and you're done.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009 Thread Starter
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SO I INSTALLED THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR TODAY AND I WAS SOOOOOOOO DISAPOINTED TO SEE THAT THE CAR WOULD NOT START. I DID EVERYTHING LIKE YOU GUYS SAID. MARKED THE DISTRIBUTOR, MARKED IT TO THE BODY, TOOK PICTURES TO SEE HOW IT WAS BEFORE AND WHEN I RE-INSTALLED IT I WAS ABLE TO MATCH IT PERFECTLY TO THE MARKS I HAD BEFORE.SOUNDED AND LOOKED EASY BUT THEN I SAID...THAT WAS TOO EASY.

SURE ENOUGH WHEN I FINISHED INSTALLING IT AND CRANCKED IT ...IT DID NOT START. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON. HOW CAN I FIX THIS PROBLEM? I KNOW IT CRANKED AND STARTED BEFORE BUT NOW IT DOES NOT START AT ALL. IT ONLY CRANKS.

ANY THOUGHTS....I JUST DON'T GET WHY IT WONT START WITH THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR. PLEASE HELP... I AM STARTING TO GET REALLY DESPERATE.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nzero21 View Post
SO I INSTALLED THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR TODAY AND I WAS SOOOOOOOO DISAPOINTED TO SEE THAT THE CAR WOULD NOT START. I DID EVERYTHING LIKE YOU GUYS SAID. MARKED THE DISTRIBUTOR, MARKED IT TO THE BODY, TOOK PICTURES TO SEE HOW IT WAS BEFORE AND WHEN I RE-INSTALLED IT I WAS ABLE TO MATCH IT PERFECTLY TO THE MARKS I HAD BEFORE.SOUNDED AND LOOKED EASY BUT THEN I SAID...THAT WAS TOO EASY.

SURE ENOUGH WHEN I FINISHED INSTALLING IT AND CRANCKED IT ...IT DID NOT START. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON. HOW CAN I FIX THIS PROBLEM? I KNOW IT CRANKED AND STARTED BEFORE BUT NOW IT DOES NOT START AT ALL. IT ONLY CRANKS.

ANY THOUGHTS....I JUST DON'T GET WHY IT WONT START WITH THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR. PLEASE HELP... I AM STARTING TO GET REALLY DESPERATE.
Any time me and my dad are working on the cars and something seems TOO easy, we always think something is wrong... LoL.

Just making sure, when you installed the new dis. was the rotor pointing at the same spot as when you took the old one out?

I just want to get that question out of the way first...

-1994 Mustang GT "The Red Baron": 3.73 gears,K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16
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- AmericanMuscle ROCKS!!
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Originally Posted by nzero21 View Post
SO I INSTALLED THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR TODAY AND I WAS SOOOOOOOO DISAPOINTED TO SEE THAT THE CAR WOULD NOT START. I DID EVERYTHING LIKE YOU GUYS SAID. MARKED THE DISTRIBUTOR, MARKED IT TO THE BODY, TOOK PICTURES TO SEE HOW IT WAS BEFORE AND WHEN I RE-INSTALLED IT I WAS ABLE TO MATCH IT PERFECTLY TO THE MARKS I HAD BEFORE.SOUNDED AND LOOKED EASY BUT THEN I SAID...THAT WAS TOO EASY.

SURE ENOUGH WHEN I FINISHED INSTALLING IT AND CRANCKED IT ...IT DID NOT START. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON. HOW CAN I FIX THIS PROBLEM? I KNOW IT CRANKED AND STARTED BEFORE BUT NOW IT DOES NOT START AT ALL. IT ONLY CRANKS.

ANY THOUGHTS....I JUST DON'T GET WHY IT WONT START WITH THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR. PLEASE HELP... I AM STARTING TO GET REALLY DESPERATE.

sounds like the dizzy made be 180* out
post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-07-2009 Thread Starter
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The rotor was pointing on the exact spot after I installed it. I labeled it and it hit exactly on the same spot. Now, I am about to take it out once again. However, When installing, the rotor did not move but the outside casing of the distributor moved a bit (before installing the hold down bolt). In worse case scenario, what would I need to do to fix the problem. I am thinking of taking out the distributor once again and putting back the old one to see if it would work again. Please Help!
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