1994-1995 Mustang gt weight - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009 Thread Starter
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1994-1995 Mustang gt weight

whole car? Then each front , Left then right separate, also rear left then right separate weight of each

1988 coupe race car 2700lbs 366rwhp
1965 2+2 fast back 4 speed tri power
1968 gt/cs 347 5 speed 380rwhp w/a E303 best cam ever!
1970 mach 1 428scj 4 speed v code 410 rwhp stock
1990 gt drag car 780hp on motor
1994 gt 320rwhp w/ ported gt40 heads, 1998 svt cobra
2003 svt cobra 456rwhp
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009
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why? find a chassis shop in your area and have them SCALE it. for the exact weight go to a truck stop and you can weigh it for 10.00-15.00 dollars.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009
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The whole car is somewhere around 3258, are you talking about a coupe or convt?

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009 Thread Starter
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Coupe . A guy in the shop next to me has one that he will let me use

1988 coupe race car 2700lbs 366rwhp
1965 2+2 fast back 4 speed tri power
1968 gt/cs 347 5 speed 380rwhp w/a E303 best cam ever!
1970 mach 1 428scj 4 speed v code 410 rwhp stock
1990 gt drag car 780hp on motor
1994 gt 320rwhp w/ ported gt40 heads, 1998 svt cobra
2003 svt cobra 456rwhp
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009
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one what?..........
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cindys_sn95 View Post
why? find a chassis shop in your area and have them SCALE it. for the exact weight go to a truck stop and you can weigh it for 10.00-15.00 dollars.
you seem to know " WHY" I was asking. I am the chassis shop. I cant pay some else all my life.

Thanks for all your help

1988 coupe race car 2700lbs 366rwhp
1965 2+2 fast back 4 speed tri power
1968 gt/cs 347 5 speed 380rwhp w/a E303 best cam ever!
1970 mach 1 428scj 4 speed v code 410 rwhp stock
1990 gt drag car 780hp on motor
1994 gt 320rwhp w/ ported gt40 heads, 1998 svt cobra
2003 svt cobra 456rwhp
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009
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for what its worth maybe this will help.....

you will still need access to scales but you can do it yourself.....


Scaling your race car is arguably one the most important practices that you can do to increase your chance of visiting victory lane. Proper chassis set up requires that the weight balance is set correctly for the car, driver and track conditions. In order to achieve proper and repeatable weight balance a quality set of electronic scales will need to be obtained.
Before you begin the scaling process you should make sure that the car is race ready. Fluid levels need to be topped off, stagger & tire are pressure set, ride heights adjusted, Caster adjusted, Camber set, rear end square and the toe checked. You will also need to take advantage of the maximum left side weight and check to see if your total weight is within the rules and the front to rear balance is where you and your chassis builder want it. Emphasis should be placed on being race ready before you begin the final scaling procedure as all of these factors will have an effect on the end result.
Now that you are ready for your final scaling procedure you will need to find a level area to weigh the car. Most garage floors vary by quite a bit. Spend a few minutes with a good level and straight edge and mark four spots on the floor that you can use each time you want to scale the car. Make sure that you mark the floor to match up with your wheel base and track width.
Should the floor have low spots you can use simple shims to make all four scale pads level or utilize some leveling trays to speed up the job. Mark the shims or trays with LF, RF, LR, RR so that you can quickly repeat the process each and every week. Consistency is the goal when scaling so weighing the car in the same spot each and every week will improve your chances of having a great handling car.
Now that you have a level surface you can roll the car into position. Set the scale pads next to the appropriate tire and hook up the cables. Make sure that the cables are plugged into the correct pad and turn the scales on. Check that there is no weight on the scale pads and press the zero button. The control box should now read zero and you are ready to place the pads under the car.
Jack up one side at a time and slide the pads under the tires. Place the car in gear or use a stop to keep the car on the scales. Verify that the sway bar is disconnected or completely neutral with plenty of slop. At this point, give the rear of the car a firm settle by placing your knee on the rear bumper. Then do the same at the front.
After settling the front and rear I like to grab the roof roll bar and shake the car several times. I try to let go right in the middle. By settling the car and shaking the roof bar you are helping to insure that the shocks are not hanging up and that you have worked out any small binds in the suspension points. Try to do the settling procedure consistently as this will help you obtain repeatable results. Settle the car after each time you raise it with a jack or make an adjustment.
You can now record your wheel weights, partial weights and percentages. Check that the front to rear balance is correct and that the left side and total are where they need to be. If not then move the lead to the appropriate spot until you are happy. Readjust the ride heights if you have to move lead around.
Now you can check the cross weight. If you want to add cross weight put a turn in the right front and left rear and take a turn out of the left front and right rear. On non coil over cars you may need to go two turns on the rear for every one turn on the front. By adjusting all four corners you will help maintain your ride heights.
Now you can set the sway bar. With the car still on the scales you can see exactly how pre-load you are putting on the bar. Record your final settings and you are ready to go.
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youmaytry View Post
The whole car is somewhere around 3258
That's probably for the stripped out GTS version. A 5-speed GT weighs about 3400lb and an AODE version is 20lb heavier.


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JLT 3 CAI, DIY CMDPs, Steeda UDPs, FRPP X-pipe, Brenspeed 91 tune
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlg34750 View Post
for what its worth maybe this will help.....

you will still need access to scales but you can do it yourself.....


Scaling your race car is arguably one the most important practices that you can do to increase your chance of visiting victory lane. Proper chassis set up requires that the weight balance is set correctly for the car, driver and track conditions. In order to achieve proper and repeatable weight balance a quality set of electronic scales will need to be obtained.
Before you begin the scaling process you should make sure that the car is race ready. Fluid levels need to be topped off, stagger & tire are pressure set, ride heights adjusted, Caster adjusted, Camber set, rear end square and the toe checked. You will also need to take advantage of the maximum left side weight and check to see if your total weight is within the rules and the front to rear balance is where you and your chassis builder want it. Emphasis should be placed on being race ready before you begin the final scaling procedure as all of these factors will have an effect on the end result.
Now that you are ready for your final scaling procedure you will need to find a level area to weigh the car. Most garage floors vary by quite a bit. Spend a few minutes with a good level and straight edge and mark four spots on the floor that you can use each time you want to scale the car. Make sure that you mark the floor to match up with your wheel base and track width.
Should the floor have low spots you can use simple shims to make all four scale pads level or utilize some leveling trays to speed up the job. Mark the shims or trays with LF, RF, LR, RR so that you can quickly repeat the process each and every week. Consistency is the goal when scaling so weighing the car in the same spot each and every week will improve your chances of having a great handling car.
Now that you have a level surface you can roll the car into position. Set the scale pads next to the appropriate tire and hook up the cables. Make sure that the cables are plugged into the correct pad and turn the scales on. Check that there is no weight on the scale pads and press the zero button. The control box should now read zero and you are ready to place the pads under the car.
Jack up one side at a time and slide the pads under the tires. Place the car in gear or use a stop to keep the car on the scales. Verify that the sway bar is disconnected or completely neutral with plenty of slop. At this point, give the rear of the car a firm settle by placing your knee on the rear bumper. Then do the same at the front.
After settling the front and rear I like to grab the roof roll bar and shake the car several times. I try to let go right in the middle. By settling the car and shaking the roof bar you are helping to insure that the shocks are not hanging up and that you have worked out any small binds in the suspension points. Try to do the settling procedure consistently as this will help you obtain repeatable results. Settle the car after each time you raise it with a jack or make an adjustment.
You can now record your wheel weights, partial weights and percentages. Check that the front to rear balance is correct and that the left side and total are where they need to be. If not then move the lead to the appropriate spot until you are happy. Readjust the ride heights if you have to move lead around.
Now you can check the cross weight. If you want to add cross weight put a turn in the right front and left rear and take a turn out of the left front and right rear. On non coil over cars you may need to go two turns on the rear for every one turn on the front. By adjusting all four corners you will help maintain your ride heights.
Now you can set the sway bar. With the car still on the scales you can see exactly how pre-load you are putting on the bar. Record your final settings and you are ready to go.

This is what I am doing. Ordered coil overs for my 03 cobra today getting ready for california speed way in march

1988 coupe race car 2700lbs 366rwhp
1965 2+2 fast back 4 speed tri power
1968 gt/cs 347 5 speed 380rwhp w/a E303 best cam ever!
1970 mach 1 428scj 4 speed v code 410 rwhp stock
1990 gt drag car 780hp on motor
1994 gt 320rwhp w/ ported gt40 heads, 1998 svt cobra
2003 svt cobra 456rwhp
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