Installing Edelbrock performer Intake Manifold - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009 Thread Starter
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Installing Edelbrock performer Intake Manifold

A friend of mine has a 94 Cobra and wants to install the edelbrock performer intake manifold, Does anyone have a tech link as to how to go about this? I can probably do it with no issues but since he has no other ways of transportation i dont want to get stuck or break something if there is a write up on this.

Even just a write up on removing the intake manifold would be fine.

Thanks

2006 V6 Pony Package Premium -Mods: 61mm Powerhouse Turbo and Intercooler, Evolution Dyno Tune(Jon Lund), Steeda Performance Shorty Headers.
Current Numbers:
350 rwhp/420 torque @ 8.3 psi (low boost)
415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
New Set Up: 4.6 3v With Manual Trans, Bolt Ons
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009
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I just recently replaced my stock intake manifold with an Edelbrock Performer and gained 15rwhp/7rwtq on the dyno. The job isn't difficult but be prepared to replace some old plastic/rubber vacuum lines in the process. I'll try to walk you through it as best as I can:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Drain the cooling system completely.
3. Loosen the clamp holding the airpipe to the throttle body and remove the air filter housing with MAF and airpipe as a complete unit. Disconnect the wiring to the ACT sensor and MAF from the main harness.
4. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the TPS and IAC, disconnect the throttle and cruise cables from the throttle body, and unbolt the EGR pipe from the upper manifold elbow.
5. Disconnect vacuum hoses from the EGR, smog pump, and fuel pressure regulator.
6. Remove Torx screws holding emblem plate to upper manifold and remove all 6 upper to lower manifold bolts.
7. Carefully lift the upper manifold with throttle body away from the lower manifold and disconnect vacuum hoses from underneath. These rubber hoses may be hard and brittle so be prepared to replace them.
8. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, water pump bypass hose, and the heater hoses from the lower manifold.
9. Release the fuel pressure from the Schrader valve and disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail using a special disconnect tool.
10. Unplug the ECT sensor, coolant temp. gauge sending unit, and injectors to release the wiring harness, and disconnect the PCV valve from the back of the manifold.
11. Remove all the bolts holding the lower manifold to the heads and carefully lift out the manifold with injectors and fuel rail still attached.
12. Clean up any coolant that may have spilt into the lifter valley and begin to scrape away all traces of gasket residue and sealant from the head mating surfaces and block. It would be a good idea to temporarily stuff large pieces of clean shop rags into the intake ports to prevent gasket material from entering the engine.
13. Transfer the thermostat housing, thermostat, heater tube assembly, injectors, and fuel rail with regulator to the new lower manifold. Use new injector o-rings and lightly coat them with Vaseline as you install them.
14. Apply a thin coat of RTV silicone to the lower manifold gaskets and set them in place on the heads.
15. Apply a thicker coat of RTV silicone to the manifold-to-block mating surfaces (do not use rubber end seals).
16. Carefully set the new lower manifold in place ensuring that you don't move the gaskets from the heads, and bolt it on to a torque of 25lbft.
17. Reconnect the PCV valve, fuel lines, injector harnesses, and connectors to temp. gauge sending unit and ECT sensor.
18. Reconnect the heater hoses, water pump bypass hose, and upper radiator hose.
19. Transfer the PCV vacuum hose and fitting from the old upper manifold to the new one.
20. Reinstall the upper manifold with throttle body. Make sure that you reconnect vacuum hoses to the underside and carefully align the upper to lower manifold gasket. Torque the bolts down to 25lbft.
21. Reconnect vacuum hoses and fittings to the throttle body and intake adapter elbow.
22. Reconnect throttle cable, cruise cable, EGR pipe, and TPS/IAC connectors.
23. Reinstall the air intake/MAF assembly and reconnect the ACT/MAF wiring assembly to the main harness.
24. Refill the cooling system but leave the radiator cap off.
25. Reconnect the battery and cross your fingers.
26. Start the engine, let it idle, and pour more coolant into the radiator until it reaches the top and stops bubbling.
27. Check for coolant, oil, and fuel leaks.
28. Go for a gentle 15-minute test drive to make sure the engine runs smoothly and there are no driveability issues.
29. Check again for coolant, oil, and fuel leaks.
30. Add coolant to the expansion reservoir until it's at the "maximum hot" line.


2006 GT - 5MT - 12.74 @ 108.62 - 306rwhp 324rwtq
JLT 3 CAI, DIY CMDPs, Steeda UDPs, FRPP X-pipe, Brenspeed 91 tune
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009
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thats pretty good gains just on an intake manifold.

1987 t-top gt
EFI 351w, trick flow heads
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009
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Yeah, it certainly helps if you've already got a bunch of bolt-ons and ported heads.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009
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That's a pretty good detailed step by step list.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-06-2009
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It's less than 2 weeks since I did the intake swap so the details are still fresh in my head.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-06-2009
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http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ke-update.html

Here is a link from when I was doing my intake swap... It doesn't give a "play by play" like my friend Bullitt95 gave but it will give you a heads up on what to expect.

-1994 Mustang GT "The Red Baron": 3.73 gears,K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16
-Check profile for pics of our car collection!
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-06-2009
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The only things I would like to add to Bullitt95's write up...

Be sure to change the oil after the intake swap and before you start it up. You never know what trash will drain into your oil pan during the swap. So it's just to be on the safe side.

Also, NEVER leave any port uncovered. When the intake is off, make sure to either stuff some rags in the intake ports in the heads or used blue painters tape to keep them covered or you WILL drop something in there.
I stuffed some soft paper towels in the intake ports and layed some paper towels in the lifter valley when I was scraping the left over gasket material off the heads.

-1994 Mustang GT "The Red Baron": 3.73 gears,K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16
-Check profile for pics of our car collection!
- AmericanMuscle ROCKS!!
- "True Hot-Rods don't have valve covers!"
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-06-2009
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Also....

1993 cobra intake , install tips? installation? - Ford Mustang Forums

Read the tips I put in this thread...

-1994 Mustang GT "The Red Baron": 3.73 gears,K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16
-Check profile for pics of our car collection!
- AmericanMuscle ROCKS!!
- "True Hot-Rods don't have valve covers!"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302Feen View Post
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ke-update.html

Here is a link from when I was doing my intake swap... It doesn't give a "play by play" like my friend Bullitt95 gave but it will give you a heads up on what to expect.

Yo, I was reading your mod list and I was wondering, is your car a 5-speed or an auto?

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