1994 GT harmonic balancer removal/installation - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-28-2010 Thread Starter
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1994 GT harmonic balancer removal/installation

Hi guys, I'm in the midst of swapping out my balancer for a new one. I got everything off (pulley's, fan, etc.). I did some research and found I could just put a breaker bar on the nut (15/16th) and turn the motor...once i remove the coil wire that is. I have a air tank and air tools so I may try that. My question is, once I get this bolt off, will the balancer just fall off, maybe after a few taps? On installation, do i just tighten up the bolt with my air tool? I have a torque wrench, but I must admit i have no idea how to use it. I'll try a puller kit if i can't get the bolt off the other way...but whatever way I do it, I want to know what will happen once the bolt is off.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2010
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You will need a pulley to remove the HB. The torque spec when tightening is 110-130 ft lbs. From the Ford CD service manual here's what you do.

Apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the crankshaft front seal rubbing surface of the vibration damper inner hub to prevent damage to the crankshaft front seal. Apply Silicone Gasket and Sealant F1AZ-19562-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G320-A2 to keyway groove in damper before installing on crankshaft.

Line up the crankshaft vibration damper keyway with the crankshaft key (6B316) on the crankshaft. Install the vibration damper on the crankshaft. Install the bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to 149-176 N-m (110-130 lb-ft). Install the crankshaft pulley.

Install the drive belt.

Install the engine cooling fan motor, fan blade and fan shroud as an assembly as outlined in «Section 03-03».

If you would like a copy of this Cd PM me.

Richard
KB 2.1L, FRPP M5400-A Suspension System, FRPP Aluminum D/S, Shift Kit, Built TC, FRPP 3.73 Gears, Balanced Roller Cammed Engine, Edelbrock Performer Heads, Comp 270AH cam, AEM EMS, 3.5 Bar MAP, Zeitronix ZT-2 WB, FRPP 70mm TB, hardened AODE, modified UPR CAI, Be Cool Aluminum Rad
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2010
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Never tap on a harmonic balancer

Like toyman said, you will need to get a puller/installer. Autozone rents them for free

And learn how to use your torque wrench. Note: never leave a torque wrench "loaded," aka, set to a higher torque setting. Always store them adjusted to less that 15% of the maximum torque setting.

'94 Laser red 'vert. Still a 5-oh... for now
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2010 Thread Starter
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if I rent a puller/installer, what are the instructions on how to use it to remove and install?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adaryll View Post
if I rent a puller/installer, what are the instructions on how to use it to remove and install?
The balancer pullers are REALLY easy to use. Once you rent the tool you should see how it's used.

The puller is in a Y shape. You use the 3 correct size bolts for your balancer to bolt the puller to the ballancer. Then there is a BIG, LONG bolt that goes through the middle. You turn the big bolt until it pops the balancer off.

Like I said, once you get the tool you'll understand how it works. It's really easy.

-1994 Mustang GT "The Red Baron": 3.73 gears,K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2010
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I'm pretty sure there are directions on the one I have rented from autozone.

'94 Laser red 'vert. Still a 5-oh... for now
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2010 Thread Starter
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so can I use the puller to take the bolt and balancer off, or is it just to take the balancer off -- which assumes I am removing the bolt.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adaryll View Post
so can I use the puller to take the bolt and balancer off, or is it just to take the balancer off -- which assumes I am removing the bolt.
You remove the bolt first. Then use the puller to take the balancer off...

You can Google, "How to use Harmonic Balancer Puller". You should be able to find plenty of instructions on how to use it.

-1994 Mustang GT "The Red Baron": 3.73 gears,K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16
-Check profile for pics of our car collection!
- AmericanMuscle ROCKS!!
- "True Hot-Rods don't have valve covers!"
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2010
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Quote:
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so can I use the puller to take the bolt and balancer off, or is it just to take the balancer off -- which assumes I am removing the bolt.
Don't over-think this...it really is not difficult.

If you are going to change the HB, go get the puller. It will be pretty clear how it is used. Once you see it, you will understand. The whole point of the thing is to pull the HB straight off by applying equal pressure so it doesn't get cocked on the crank.

Matt

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and it collects dust admirably while parked for repairs in the garage...

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010 Thread Starter
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Cool. Thanks guys. I'm going to do it this weekend. I'm changing the balancer because I let the car sit for a few weeks. I drove it one day and suddenly I started feeling all of this vibration the car. When I first start it up it shakes horribly adn then again when I'm at about 30 mph. I figured it was the balancer. I did some googling and found a lot of support for my suspicion not to mention it loooks like the OEM one that came with the car. Anyway, thanks guys. I'll jump on it this weekend.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adaryll View Post
Cool. Thanks guys. I'm going to do it this weekend. I'm changing the balancer because I let the car sit for a few weeks. I drove it one day and suddenly I started feeling all of this vibration the car. When I first start it up it shakes horribly adn then again when I'm at about 30 mph. I figured it was the balancer. I did some googling and found a lot of support for my suspicion not to mention it loooks like the OEM one that came with the car. Anyway, thanks guys. I'll jump on it this weekend.
Usually if the vibration is caused by the balancer, the vibrations will usually get worse as the RPM's go up. It's almost always in sync with the engine RPM's. So if that's NOT what is going on then I would keep doing some inspection.

-1994 Mustang GT "The Red Baron": 3.73 gears,K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16
-Check profile for pics of our car collection!
- AmericanMuscle ROCKS!!
- "True Hot-Rods don't have valve covers!"
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010 Thread Starter
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when i first start up it was vibratng like crazy. at idle there is a noticeable wobble but not uncomfy. As I mash on the gas it does increase. actually, it feels a lto worse with each day. But I need to post a new thread. I'm going to change the time chain cover too...need some advice on it.
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