Diagnosing driverside window motor problem-1995 Mustang GT - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010 Thread Starter
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Diagnosing driverside window motor problem-1995 Mustang GT

I just wanted to start off by saying that I have read through over 7 pages of previous post and cannot find any of them that have troubleshooted to the point to where I am at.

I have a '95 Mustang GT convertible that have three operational windows except the driver side.

The first area of the troubleshooting I addressed was the window motor. I pulled it apart and sure enough the bushings were obliterated. I cleaned all parts, greased everything, installed new bushing, and reassembled the motor. I then test the motor with a 12V (out of the car) to verify operation, reinstalled it back into the door, turned the key on and hit the switch and nothing happened.

Next, I thought the contacts on the window switch might be damaged considering the Mustang is 15 years old and is used the most (driver side). I cleaned the contacts, reinstalled the switch, and still nothing.

After using a multmeter to figure out how the switch gets power we were able to determine a few things.

1) I was able to attach two jumper wires from the switch directly to the window motor connector and operate the window up and down as normal. This told me the actual switch was not the problem.

2) The two wire connector (red/yellow wires) that connects from the window harness to the window motor only had 12V on the yellow wire. The red wire should have 12V when the switch is moved to the "Up" position and does not. We done a continuity test to make sure the connector was not broke.

My problem is, I have a break in the wire somewhere in the wiring harness from the actual window switch down the the connector. Has anyone else ran into this?

I apologize for writing a book but I would like this thread to be of some help to other members that have a problem and can troubleshoot.

John

'72 Ford Mustang Mach1, Q-Code, light pewter metallic w/black stripes, 351C-4v, 4-speed, AC, PS, PB, Deluxe Interior, 3:50 Traction-Lok rear, (Restoration 40% complete)

'95 Ford Mustang GT, convertible, 5.0HO, Auto, Rio Red, Black interior.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010
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Hi, i have run into several types and situations on wiring and I compliment you on your complete and accurate description. i agree there is a break in the wire. Unfortunately, i can't tell you exactly where. I don't recall running across this exact scenario before, You will just have to start removing the wrap and start looking for a break in the wire. If you still run into problems, don't be afraid to ask. good luck
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010
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Hi, I agree with Ferguson 30. Start unwrapping, or run a new wire from the switch to the motor, Tip: If your testor's leads are sharp, you can poke them into the wire's insulation and get continuity readings (or voltage readings) without permanently damaging the insulation. For example, attach one tester lead to the red wire at the switch, then poke the wire a few inches away from the switch, verify that you get a reading (you should), then move along the wire wherever you can access it, and find out in what section you are losing continuity. Do the same from the motor end of the wire The break has to be in between the switch and the motor. I hope you find the problem spot this way. If you can't find it, run a new wire and tape it to the wire harness where-ever you can, to protect it, and be done with it. Good luck, it is possible to fix.

SLITHER
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010 Thread Starter
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You guys hit the nail on the head. One thing that I am trying to figure out is that somewhere under the dash or in the door the wires change color(s) and size. The red and yellow wires on the motor connector are not the same as what is on the power window switch grid. What I have to find out is if the wires change as they are in the harness, a module, etc. I'm going to try to troubleshoot again tonight.

Thanks,

John

'72 Ford Mustang Mach1, Q-Code, light pewter metallic w/black stripes, 351C-4v, 4-speed, AC, PS, PB, Deluxe Interior, 3:50 Traction-Lok rear, (Restoration 40% complete)

'95 Ford Mustang GT, convertible, 5.0HO, Auto, Rio Red, Black interior.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2010
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Hello again, usually the wires make a straight shot from the switch to the motor. Since the ones coming out of the motor are different from the ones coming out of the switch, I would start from the motor side of the harness first. Someone may have spliced a different connector on the motor side of the harness and may not have got the wires spliced correctly. Let us know what you find out.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2010 Thread Starter
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I now have a wiring diagram with all of the wire colors, routing, etc from my Ford service cd. This will help me tremendously when I get back to troubleshooting. I will keep you guys posted.

Thanks,

John

'72 Ford Mustang Mach1, Q-Code, light pewter metallic w/black stripes, 351C-4v, 4-speed, AC, PS, PB, Deluxe Interior, 3:50 Traction-Lok rear, (Restoration 40% complete)

'95 Ford Mustang GT, convertible, 5.0HO, Auto, Rio Red, Black interior.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011
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This post is from a while ago but I had the same issue in my '95 GT. It ended up just being a bad switch, so for those who just google the same problem and got to this thread, check your switchs. That was my problem. =)
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011
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Is there a way you can post the diagram? My driver window too has stopped working. After testing the switch on the passenger side I determined the switch is not faulty. It's either a wire or motor
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012
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Whatever happened with this thread? I'm having the same problem right now. Motor is fine and switch is fine. Main power to the window motor is interrupted somewhere.
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