1994 Mustang Gt, smog and A/C delete - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010 Thread Starter
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1994 Mustang Gt, smog and A/C delete

Well I'm about to do the smog and A/C delete which is an easy task, but I have a few Q. I dont want to buy those expensive pulley delete kits like $60 on the smog pulley and $40 on the a/c pulley I just want to remove the originals and use a shorter belt. Ive been browsing and I have found several posts about people using different belt sizes, so which one should fit ? 2nd Q how do I plug those things on back of the heads, are there any special plugs or should I just cut the tubes weld them and but them back on ? thanks.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-09-2010
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The best way to delete them with just using a belt is to use string! Route the string the way the belt would run make sure it ran the correct way so it still charges and turns water pump and power steering. Take the string out and measure it. Buy a belt that size or a little smaller due to the tensioner. 2nd those wholes on the head i was actually wondering the same thing. My dad has a 95 and those wholes are open??????? There is nothing blocking them off. The guy before did a rigged smog delete and he welding the headers, bought a mac chamber with no smog and took the tube off and left the wholes open... So his car runs good so im not what they do lol. Well hope the belt question was answered and i guess will both wait for a reply on those wholes...
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-09-2010
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The string thing does the job, however, I prefer my old long belt (off the SHO) cut. This is an excellent measuring tool.

As for the holes, there are a number of ways to block them off. I wouldn't leave them open. When I first removed my smog pump I unbolted the line and capped it with a bottle cap. A 5/8" hose clamp for security :yelpleased: It wasn't the best looking, but it worked.
On my GT40 heads I have now I unbolted both connections from the back of the heads and bought allen head worm screws to block them off. That's a very clean way to do it

A word to the wise: Any vacuum lines that you unplug make sure sure to cap them off with a vacuum line cap

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input! I'll post some pics when I get the job done...
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010
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Summit Racing sells the plugs for the back of the heads for cheap. I couldn't find it on the site so I called and they took care of me.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010
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You probably already finished this by now, but if not maybe this will help. I did this on my '94GT and I used an 82.7" belt from Summit. It works perfectly: GoodYear GatorV-belt or something like that.

The holes in the back of the heads are open all the way to the exhaust ports that go out your headers. I wouldn't leave those open either and so I didn't. I found 9/16" course threaded bolts that threaded right in.

I didn't know summit sold plugs for those. I wish I did because it took some serious experimenting to get the right thread for those. I actually took a GT40 head I had lying around and carried it into a hardware store to size it.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010
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I used a pair of old spark plugs with thread locker smeared onto the threads to block the holes in the back of the heads.
The AC/smog delete belt routing is as follows:

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Must..._AC_delete.JPG


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adriano_917 View Post
Well I'm about to do the smog and A/C delete which is an easy task, but I have a few Q. I dont want to buy those expensive pulley delete kits like $60 on the smog pulley and $40 on the a/c pulley I just want to remove the originals and use a shorter belt......

You are probably done with this already but I am going to warn you anyway.

I did this exact thing and it cost me my '90LX. It burnt to the ground and the cause was traced back to the alternator/wiring. By re-routing a shorter belt after removing the smog pump, the belt pulled down on the alternator shaft at about the 4:00 position (instead of straight down as it did with the smog pump in place) as it went back to the water pump. This stress cost me 4 alternators over the course of 2 years and the 5th alternator, instead of simply overheating and locking up, heated up to the point that the car caught fire under the hood.
We traced the point of origin of the fire back to the wiring harness that plugs into the alternator so I know this is what happened to me.

Moral of the story......don't cheap out on a dummy pulley. Spend the $60 and it may just save you from the fate that I had to endure.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rj8806 View Post
You are probably done with this already but I am going to warn you anyway.

I did this exact thing and it cost me my '90LX. It burnt to the ground and the cause was traced back to the alternator/wiring. By re-routing a shorter belt after removing the smog pump, the belt pulled down on the alternator shaft at about the 4:00 position (instead of straight down as it did with the smog pump in place) as it went back to the water pump. This stress cost me 4 alternators over the course of 2 years and the 5th alternator, instead of simply overheating and locking up, heated up to the point that the car caught fire under the hood.
We traced the point of origin of the fire back to the wiring harness that plugs into the alternator so I know this is what happened to me.

Moral of the story......don't cheap out on a dummy pulley. Spend the $60 and it may just save you from the fate that I had to endure.
Well thats odd, has anybody else had a problem like stated above ?

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I removed my A/C compressor bought a shorter belt I think it was 84.5 and just unplugged the vacuum lines that ran the smog stuff and plugged them. Works pretty good right now, will probably buy the smog delete sometime just to get rid of the ugly smog pump. I don't think the smog pump turning results in much power loss compared to the A/C comp. turning.

94 GT FRPP: oil pump, driveshaft, pickup tube, timing chain and sprockets, rockers, lifters, pushrods, balancer, all new gaskets (except rear main winter project) . Heads have been milled and freshened up. With most the nick nack stuff out of the way soon I can really start building her up.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
I used a pair of old spark plugs with thread locker smeared onto the threads to block the holes in the back of the heads.
The AC/smog delete belt routing is as follows:

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Must..._AC_delete.JPG
That is the same routing and belt size I am currently using. I bypassed my AC and smog pump. The pump and AC compressor are still there, just waiting for my engine rebuild to remove them. But it's worked just fine for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by adriano_917 View Post
Well thats odd, has anybody else had a problem like stated above ?
I'm not one to question Rich. He knows more about a lot of this stuff than I do. But I have been running the same belt routing and belt size that is in the diagram Bullit posted. I have had absolutely no issues whatsoever...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rj8806 View Post
By re-routing a shorter belt after removing the smog pump, the belt pulled down on the alternator shaft at about the 4:00 position (instead of straight down as it did with the smog pump in place) as it went back to the water pump. This stress cost me 4 alternators over the course of 2 years and the 5th alternator, instead of simply overheating and locking up, heated up to the point that the car caught fire under the hood.
We traced the point of origin of the fire back to the wiring harness that plugs into the alternator so I know this is what happened to me.
Your problem was caused by the belt being much too tight.
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