1994 Mustang GT Vibration - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-25-2011 Thread Starter
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1994 Mustang GT Vibration

Hey its my first time posting on the forums =)I have a 1994 Mustang GT automatic.

I just had the rear diff rebuilt with 3.73 gears and I installed a polyurethane tranny mount. Im getting a vibration at 1500 rpm and it continues to red line. Its really bad from about 5k-5.8k... I checked the drive shaft and the u joints looked good(no play)...
I looked at the harmonic balancer and there is a rubber seal that is coming off the back of it, just in a little section tho its not falling apart yet. The head tech at my shop said its not enough that would cause a bad vibration but I dont know if I believe him.
It does it in park and N as well as while im driving.
Any help is GREATLY appreciated
Thanks
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-25-2011
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If It didn't do it in park and neutral I was going to say your drive shaft needed balancing. But since it does then I would say that your harmonic balancer is the problem. Since it does it basically ask the time. I would replace it if its damaged because mine went out and then after that for of my pistons went to knocking lol. Hello new 5.0.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-25-2011
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DON'T DRIVE THE CAR!!!! (And find a different tech while you are at it)

That little piece of rubber poking out of the back of the harmonic balancer means it is toast...

You gotta replace it prior to running it anymore...otherwise, you are risking the engine...

JMHO, of course...

Matt

2006 GT - Vortech polished w/ intercooler, Eibach suspension, Hurst short-throw, some other goodies - tuned by Paul's High Performance. It moves...

and it collects dust admirably while parked for repairs in the garage...

SOLD - 1995 Black Mustang GT, AODE. Loved it, but I had to let it go...

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-26-2011 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. Ill get a new one tomorrow
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-26-2011
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Now, I think a lot of folks will say to steer clear of the elastomer balancers (like what you have with the rubber crap in it that fails after enough time has passed).

Problem is, I personally don't see the need to spend the money to get a harmonic balancer that is race approved for a stock engine...of course, that's just me...

That being said, I have heard good things about the Pioneer brand...DA-3021...

Matt

2006 GT - Vortech polished w/ intercooler, Eibach suspension, Hurst short-throw, some other goodies - tuned by Paul's High Performance. It moves...

and it collects dust admirably while parked for repairs in the garage...

SOLD - 1995 Black Mustang GT, AODE. Loved it, but I had to let it go...

mjmalegalsolutions.com
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-26-2011
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If the OP wants to spin the engine to 5.8k on a regular basis I would definitely recommend a SFI approved piece such as (PowerBond 1084 Stainless Steel)

http://members.shaw.ca/r-manders/PB1084-SS.jpg

Richard
KB 2.1L, FRPP M5400-A Suspension System, FRPP Aluminum D/S, Shift Kit, Built TC, FRPP 3.73 Gears, Balanced Roller Cammed Engine, Edelbrock Performer Heads, Comp 270AH cam, AEM EMS, 3.5 Bar MAP, Zeitronix ZT-2 WB, FRPP 70mm TB, hardened AODE, modified UPR CAI, Be Cool Aluminum Rad
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-26-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alleymad95GT View Post
DON'T DRIVE THE CAR!!!! (And find a different tech while you are at it)
Quote:
That being said, I have heard good things about the Pioneer brand...DA-3021...
+1 and +1

Here are the two Pioneer possibilities that was mentioned:

MUSTANG - 50 oz. imbalance - 5.0L/302 - FORD - Harmonic Balancers - Pioneer Automotive - SummitRacing.com

Even if replacing that balancer doesn't fix your problem outright, it desperately needs to be done.

'94 Laser red 'vert. Still a 5-oh... for now
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-26-2011
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Im having the same issue as we speak, i have everything pulled off down to the harmonic balancer, and mine looks the same way, the rubber seal looks like a POS... im just waiting on my brother to get off work and bring the puller and a breaker bar over.. these forums really help a lot.....SO THANKS TO EVERYONE OUT THERE FOR POSTING ALL THIS GOOD INFO FOR IDIOTS LIKE ME lol...much appreciated
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-27-2011 Thread Starter
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Ok so I replaced my balancer and it made a big difference. But when I get to 5.5k it still vibrates(not as bad) but it feels like the car loses all power. Could it be the transmission slipping? I had a Problem with the sensor in my distributor causing the car to ping and have almost the same problem at 3k rpm. I just grabbed a dizzy out of a used car and it fixed that problem. Should I try and replace the ignition pick up?
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Well, if you suspect that the vibration is related to ignition...

Start with making sure all of the tune up parts are in good repair...plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter...might want to pull the plugs and check the gap as well as the color to see if there are any indications you are running either lean or rich...just because its easy...

Clean the MAF...I assume you know how...if not, non-chlorinated cleaner or MAF cleaner, T20 security torx bit to remove the sensor from the housing, soak the white wires and let them dry (some will tell you to scrub gently with a Q-tip, but 1) its not really needed and 2) you run the risk of breaking the fragile wires).

Pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator. Smell it. There should be no smell of gas in that vacuum line. If there is, then the diaphragm in the regulator is leaking and the regulator need replacing.

What is your base timing set at? Try moving it back to 10 BTDC and see if that makes a difference.

Is your fuel pump making any weird noises? Is it louder than it was in the past?

Finally, when you have all of that done, might as well pull the codes. Even if there is no CEL, if there is a code it will be stored.

DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test Procedure

Amazon.com: Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader: Automotive

Matt

2006 GT - Vortech polished w/ intercooler, Eibach suspension, Hurst short-throw, some other goodies - tuned by Paul's High Performance. It moves...

and it collects dust admirably while parked for repairs in the garage...

SOLD - 1995 Black Mustang GT, AODE. Loved it, but I had to let it go...

mjmalegalsolutions.com
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-27-2011 Thread Starter
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I checked all my ignition components today, I replaced the coil with an MSD one. Still the same thing, ill do some self tests tomorrow. Its a really weird thing, its like right at 5200 it violently shakes, looses power, and wont rev up too much higher. I held it in that zone for about 2 seconds today and the rpms actually started to drop a bit even tho I had WOT...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VibeRed5.0 View Post
I checked all my ignition components today, I replaced the coil with an MSD one. Still the same thing, ill do some self tests tomorrow. Its a really weird thing, its like right at 5200 it violently shakes, looses power, and wont rev up too much higher. I held it in that zone for about 2 seconds today and the rpms actually started to drop a bit even tho I had WOT...
Some say there is a rev limiter for the AODE at 5500 due to a ballooning issue with the OEM converter others say otherwise. My car before the mods and with 4:10 gears and a shift kit would stall at 5500 when kept in 1st, 2nd gear and 3rd. The shift on the AODE is commanded at 5300 so with the shift kit the gear change occurred fast enough to keep the revs just below 5500 so when kept in drive it never became an issue. I don't recall any vibration but I can tell you that when the TC started to go there was a shudder on the 3-4 and 4-3 shifts. See this link

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12-t...tsb-98-8-7.pdf

I think this is what you are experiencing and the comments above explain why you can't spin the engine above 5500 with the AODE.

Richard
KB 2.1L, FRPP M5400-A Suspension System, FRPP Aluminum D/S, Shift Kit, Built TC, FRPP 3.73 Gears, Balanced Roller Cammed Engine, Edelbrock Performer Heads, Comp 270AH cam, AEM EMS, 3.5 Bar MAP, Zeitronix ZT-2 WB, FRPP 70mm TB, hardened AODE, modified UPR CAI, Be Cool Aluminum Rad
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2011 Thread Starter
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The vibration starts at 5k. If i have the car in drive it shifts at like 5300 so theres 300 rpm that the car vibrates. The reason why I thought ignition was because I had a problem with the hall effect sensor causing my car to ping and eventually not go past 3k rpm. I used a scan tool to pull codes and the only code the car had was that the temp sensor wasnt working. The car just overall feels a bit sluggish. Could the vibration be the engine missfiring? My fuel pump use to whine all the time but today I noticed that it wasnt making any noise. Maybe its not able to pump enough volume of fuel thats needed at 5k rpm?
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I was wondering if there was a fuel delivery issue - did you check the FPR and check the fuel pressure? How about the filter? Don't want to overlook the little crap...

Matt

2006 GT - Vortech polished w/ intercooler, Eibach suspension, Hurst short-throw, some other goodies - tuned by Paul's High Performance. It moves...

and it collects dust admirably while parked for repairs in the garage...

SOLD - 1995 Black Mustang GT, AODE. Loved it, but I had to let it go...

mjmalegalsolutions.com
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I don't think that inadequate fuel delivery would result in vibration. Vibration has to come from the drive-line or the wheels/tires. Does it always vibrate at 5000 rpm or just in a particular gear at 5000 rpm?

Richard
KB 2.1L, FRPP M5400-A Suspension System, FRPP Aluminum D/S, Shift Kit, Built TC, FRPP 3.73 Gears, Balanced Roller Cammed Engine, Edelbrock Performer Heads, Comp 270AH cam, AEM EMS, 3.5 Bar MAP, Zeitronix ZT-2 WB, FRPP 70mm TB, hardened AODE, modified UPR CAI, Be Cool Aluminum Rad
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