Mustang GT 95 overheating - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011 Thread Starter
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Mustang GT 95 overheating

Hi everbody,

This is my first post.
I live in Brazil, and have a 1995 GT. Here in Brazil, we don't have much information about Mustangs, so i woul like to ask for your help.

In the last month, i repleaced the radiator because there was a big leak. After that, my Mustang runs without any problens. But now it is overheating. I did a little trouble shooting, and everthing seens to work fine:

- The fan ir working fine;
- The overheat almost reachs the red line, even with the engine at idle power;
- The radiator hose is very hot, what means the termostatic valve is ok (i beleave that), but it seens to be too much pressurized. With the car running, the hose stays too hard;
- The recovery tank level never change. That take me to belive the radiator cap is not working, and the system is presurized all the time.

In the first time that the problens appears, i remove and clean the radiator cap. The car works fine for one week, and the problem returns.

What do you guys think? There is some way to check if the radiator cap is working if 16 psi?

If someone wants to see some pics of my car, there is my Mustang site (sorry, is only in portuguese): www.mustang.bet.br

note: Sorry for my bad inglish...

Thanks

Laércio
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011
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The radiator hose will get really hot and expand making it feel firm. This is normal.

What isn't normal is the return tank staying the same level. It should be a lot more full while running. You may have a clog in the system or it isn't pressurized enough. Does coolant come out of the top of the radiator at all? Try getting a replacement radiator cap and see if it fixes anything. You may want to also consider a radiator flush and thermometer replacement.

1998 GT - CAI, trickflow intake, 3.55 gears, O/R x-pipe, flowmasters, short throw shifter. 145k miles
1995 GT vert - 1 of 36 5.0 Appx. 450,000~ factory motor miles *totaled/parts car* RIP..
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011
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You don't need a flush with a new rad unless you suspect the coolant passages in the engine are a source of contaminant. What is the coolant mix? Should be no less than 70/30 (water to antifreeze). Can you independently verify the temperature with an infrared thermometer? Gauge may not even be close to accurate if sender or grounds are at issue. The rad cap is designed to relieve above 16 psi. If the overflow reservoir isn't changing that would indicate that either the pressure isn't getting to 16 psi or the tube from the rad to the bottle is plugged. Easy to check. Just remove hose from rad and blow into the hose. There should be no restriction.

Richard
KB 2.1L, FRPP M5400-A Suspension System, FRPP Aluminum D/S, Shift Kit, Built TC, FRPP 3.73 Gears, Balanced Roller Cammed Engine, Edelbrock Performer Heads, Comp 270AH cam, AEM EMS, 3.5 Bar MAP, Zeitronix ZT-2 WB, FRPP 70mm TB, hardened AODE, modified UPR CAI, Be Cool Aluminum Rad
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help Guys.

The coolant mix is 50/50.

I checked the ratiator > bottle tube, and it's fine.

Tonight, i complete the radiator with 2 liters of water! I saw a little leak in the radiator cap neck. I belive the system is not pressurizing because of this leak does't allow it to reach 16 psi.

I have a infrared themomiter, so how can i use it to check the temp? How many degrees must it have?

What is the correct procedure to fill the radiator? It must have water at top of the neck, close to the cap?
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011
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There is no magic number for the temperature other than expecting it to be between 190* and 210* when fully warmed. Just take a reading off the top rad hose. Any leak will prevent the car from getting to pressure. If you have been adding water on a regular basis your mix will no longer be 50/50. As for purging air out of the system you want to start the car with the cap off and when the coolant starts to flow from the neck put the cap on. Make sure that the bottle always is 1/2 full to prevent air from being sucked in from there as well. Air in the system can be your problem as air would be drawn into the system as the engine cools from the leak in the radiator neck.

Richard
KB 2.1L, FRPP M5400-A Suspension System, FRPP Aluminum D/S, Shift Kit, Built TC, FRPP 3.73 Gears, Balanced Roller Cammed Engine, Edelbrock Performer Heads, Comp 270AH cam, AEM EMS, 3.5 Bar MAP, Zeitronix ZT-2 WB, FRPP 70mm TB, hardened AODE, modified UPR CAI, Be Cool Aluminum Rad
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laercio View Post
The radiator hose is very hot, what means the termostatic valve is ok (i beleave that), but it seens to be too much pressurized. With the car running, the hose stays too hard;
- The recovery tank level never change. That take me to believe the radiator cap is not working, and the system is presurized all the time.
I agree with your way of thinking and it seems that the solution is to get a new 16psi radiator cap.
Before you put the new cap on, start the engine from cold and top up the radiator to the bottom of the neck while it's idling. Put the cap on when the bubbles stop and the coolant starts rising up the filler neck. Then go for a drive.


2006 GT - 5MT - 12.8 @ 108 - 306rwhp 324rwtq (E)
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-22-2011
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I usually tend to think that they run too hot anyway. Mine used to run at 215* when the gauge was showing to be in the middle range. You could also install either a 160* or 180* thermostat once you figure out if you have a leak or not.


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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-23-2011
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Eh, the 160 thermostat thing is a gimmick really. I have one in my car and it's nothing special. It keeps the engine cooler under normal operating conditions, but does nothing to help when you start playing around in the higher RPMs.

1998 GT - CAI, trickflow intake, 3.55 gears, O/R x-pipe, flowmasters, short throw shifter. 145k miles
1995 GT vert - 1 of 36 5.0 Appx. 450,000~ factory motor miles *totaled/parts car* RIP..
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-23-2011 Thread Starter
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Thanks agais, to everbody.

Today, i caled my mechanic to take a look. As i told you, the radiator is new (less tham 2 months), but here in Brazil, the Ford doesn't sell the Mustang, so we need to buy any parts from independent stores. I was afraid that my new radiator could have a crack, and with the help of my mechanic, we find a little leak in the conection of the radiator hose wich go to recovery tank. We put a clamp and the leak stops.

I also boulgth some parts to a future radiator plobem: A new cap, and a thermostat 180°. Here, this parts are very dificult to find, so i boulgth in the late model restauration supply store. They send it to my friend in Chicago.
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