1995 Mustang GT, power window problems - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-21-2007 Thread Starter
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1995 Mustang GT, power window problems

Ok so when me and my mom were leaving a store when i rolled my windows down... yes I have A/C but i don't really like to use it unless its really hot, and in georgia it is starting to cool down so I don't really need to use it. When I pressed my window to go down it has one of those one push and it goes down all the way.. i heard some noise like a clacking noise....
then when I tried to roll it up it went 3/4 of the way before stopping and still making that noise...

now my moms 2004 jeep Grand cherokee had the same problem and it turned out to be a window regulator... but her window stayed down and when you pushed it up with your hands it would fall all teh way back into the down position...

I did a search on the net for a window regulator but i could not find one...

do mustangs of this year even have one or is it just a motor and a track?

I hear the motor working but i keep on hearing the clacking noise?

could it possibly slipped off track?

thanks

95 GT 5.0/9.952 BEST ET 1/8@ 73.37/15.477 BEST ET 1/4@ 90.00.226 RT
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-21-2007
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Sounds like it may just be the window bushings?

That window not going all the way up or making clicking noises? It's not the motor but the plastic bushings inside the motor. Here is a step by step to help fix the problem.

Pics came out a little blury but you will get the idea.

Pop off the plastic cover. Start from the top with your fingers and pull up. Remove the two gold phillips screws holding the switches.

Remover the phillips screws.

Pull the tab before the speaker out with some plyers.

Remove the four phillips speaker screws. You won't have to disconnect the speaker. The speaker magnet will catch on some metal.

Disconnect the window motor connector. Now work the window motor side through the hole.

Here are the three 8MM bolts holding the window motor in place. Before removing them put a screw driver in the window tract. Some say the window will fall it you don't. Mine did not but do it for safety precautions. Now put your arm through the speaker hole and use your other hand to remove the bolts. The window lift will fall right out now.

Bring it to a work bench.

Remove the cover with a screw driver. You can see here where it is clamped (screwdriver is pointing to the notch).

With the cover off you can see the mess of chewed plastic bushings. Clean all the bushing material up.

Remove the gear ring. This will be a pain. I used to small nails. Stick in the holes and pull out. You will figure you own way when you get there.

Now pull the steel gear out. Also pull the white plastic gear out. At this point you can just purchase an entire gear kit from Cardone. Part number is 42-91 and costs around $20 (easier way). There is no assembly required with this route. Also some auto parts stores sell just the bushings in the HELP section. Or you can go to the dealer and get plastic bushings like I'm installing here for $13.

Put the new plastic bushings in place. Now put the entire assembly back in the window lift housing. Put the gear ring back on and dab a little grease on it. Put the cover back on and reverse the window lift removal procedure. (Screwdriver tip pointing to the bushings.)



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'95 GT [12.38@108 on stock longblock] | '72 Mach 1 EFI'd | '07 Auto GT [13.03@106 Tune/Boltons]
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Last edited by EagleAutosports; 10-21-2007 at 02:04 PM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-21-2007 Thread Starter
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thanks....

would it be easier just to replace the whole motor, i mean i know the saying goes if its not broke then don't fix it.....

95 GT 5.0/9.952 BEST ET 1/8@ 73.37/15.477 BEST ET 1/4@ 90.00.226 RT
No Front Cats
BBK Shorty Chrome Headers
Straight Pipe
2.73 Final Drive
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-24-2007
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i think a motor is about $150 bucks. the bushings are about $10 and it takes only a few minutes longer to just replace the bushings! just my $.02 after recently replacing them on my 94 gt.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...oorpanel-1.jpg
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-24-2007
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Wow I should note that my post was edited by someone else -- original source is a post on StangNet. Don't want it to look like I was stealing someone else's hard work.

The bushing replacement is very straight forward, the most difficult part being monkeying the door panel off.

Good luck,
Wes

'95 GT [12.38@108 on stock longblock] | '72 Mach 1 EFI'd | '07 Auto GT [13.03@106 Tune/Boltons]
Total Performance Solutions Dynotuner
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-24-2011
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Looks like that part is wrong. The plastic gear is way to small. I just ended up using the bushings from the kit. They work fine. I guess I just overpaid for the whole gear kit concidering I only ended up using the three bushings. Good thing I got a two dollar core charge I can get back.
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