[rickibrat2]

was instslling 1x2x.120 between front and rear frame members passager side was pretty much a srt8 in shoot with just a small bend in the tubing
passager side has more of a bend in it i know the car has ben kit on dirver side. had the frame check before starting on this project

is this common with frames

[SM90Stanger]

Originally Posted by rickibrat2

was instslling 1x2x.120 between front and rear frame members passager side was pretty much a srt8 in shoot with just a small bend in the tubing
passager side has more of a bend in it i know the car has ben kit on dirver side. had the frame check before starting on this project

is this common with frames

[SM90Stanger]

Originally Posted by rickibrat2

was instslling 1x2x.120 between front and rear frame members passager side was pretty much a srt8 in shoot with just a small bend in the tubing
passager side has more of a bend in it i know the car has ben kit on dirver side. had the frame check before starting on this project

is this common with frames

I have no idea what that that whole mess of writing means... give us something that readable and then we will try to help you out...

Steve

[RLG34750]

Originally Posted by SM90Stanger

Originally Posted by SM90Stanger

I have no idea what that that whole mess of writing means... give us something that readable and then we will try to help you out...

Steve

I thought it was just me.......

[b_chandler]

Steve, I think I actually get this one.

OK here goes...

It reads like he's doing his own subframe connectors, but during the installation process, he's noticed that one side is shorter than the other when he put the 1"X2" steel in and found that the passenger side needed a little more bend to make it fit. The car's been hit on the driver's side, but it's the passenger side that appears shorter. The frame was checked prior to this.

Welcome to dealing with the wet noodle known as the Fox chassis. When you checked the frame, was it put on a frame machine and checked against factory specs? If it wasn't checked on a perfectly level surface with precision equipment the results are a good guess at best. How did you support the car to work underneath? You really have to have the car resting on it's suspension so that the chassis is sitting in it's natural state. Jackstands under the rear axle out towards the wheel will do the trick out back, and up front you can set the jackstands under the lower control arms. If you're supporting the car in a way that the suspension is hanging, it tweaks things a bit and may be all or part of your problem. You didn't say how far off the two sides were so I'm only guessing here.

I've got a similar concern with mine. I know it's been hit, and there's a slight bulge on both sides of the car at the top rear of the door jamb under the trim. I've got a funny feeling my car is going to need a little stretch and pull on a frame machine to get rid of it, and I'll need to get that done before I do anything about stiffening up the structure.

[B0B N Weave]

Originally Posted by rickibrat2

was instslling 1x2x.120 between front and rear frame members passager side was pretty much a srt8 in shoot with just a small bend in the tubing
passager side has more of a bend in it i know the car has ben kit on dirver side. had the frame check before starting on this project

is this common with frames

Let me translate.

I was installing 1x2x.120 tubing between the front and rear frame members. The passenger side pretty much went straight in with just a small bend in the tubing.
The driver side has more of a bend in it. I know the car has been hit on the driver side. I had the frame checked before starting on this project.
Is this common with frames?

[SM90Stanger]

Originally Posted by B0B N Weave

Let me translate.

I was installing 1x2x.120 tubing between the front and rear frame members. The passenger side pretty much went straight in with just a small bend in the tubing.
The driver side has more of a bend in it. I know the car has been hit on the driver side. I had the frame checked before starting on this project.
Is this common with frames?

See rickibrat2? That is how you post a thread... Thanks Bob N Weave.

You can either go fix the frame, or notch and bend the subframe connector to fit the floor pan.

Steve

[rickibrat2]

Originally Posted by b_chandler

Steve, I think I actually get this one.

OK here goes...

It reads like he's doing his own subframe connectors, but during the installation process, he's noticed that one side is shorter than the other when he put the 1"X2" steel in and found that the passenger side needed a little more bend to make it fit. The car's been hit on the driver's side, but it's the passenger side that appears shorter. The frame was checked prior to this.

Welcome to dealing with the wet noodle known as the Fox chassis. When you checked the frame, was it put on a frame machine and checked against factory specs? If it wasn't checked on a perfectly level surface with precision equipment the results are a good guess at best. How did you support the car to work underneath? You really have to have the car resting on it's suspension so that the chassis is sitting in it's natural state. Jackstands under the rear axle out towards the wheel will do the trick out back, and up front you can set the jackstands under the lower control arms. If you're supporting the car in a way that the suspension is hanging, it tweaks things a bit and may be all or part of your problem. You didn't say how far off the two sides were so I'm only guessing here.

I've got a similar concern with mine. I know it's been hit, and there's a slight bulge on both sides of the car at the top rear of the door jamb under the trim. I've got a funny feeling my car is going to need a little stretch and pull on a frame machine to get rid of it, and I'll need to get that done before I do anything about stiffening up the structure.

1. wheels are sitting in there normal state on 8x8 blocks.

2. frame was checked on a frame machine here are a local body shop

3. i am installing the frame stiffeners, from the top down by opening the frame rails up.

then installing the 1x2, so i have 16 inch of it in the front frame member and 8 inch in the rear frame member. these are then welded into place

[NavySVO]

Wow, all that to do SFCs? Too much hubbub for me, sorry.

I just went with Global West that has tubular SFCs with seat pan tie in brackets. Put it on a frame jig, made sure it was all within specs and welded them in. Maximum ground clearance and all the work is done for me with the design and engineering.

[rickibrat2]

Originally Posted by NavySVO

Wow, all that to do SFCs? Too much hubbub for me, sorry.

I just went with Global West that has tubular SFCs with seat pan tie in brackets. Put it on a frame jig, made sure it was all within specs and welded them in. Maximum ground clearance and all the work is done for me with the design and engineering.

guess that would be the way to do it if i had the money, and a place that built cars for a living around here.

but with what i do for a living it makes it very hard to get far from my house, as it means loading 2 kids in wheelchairs in to the truck to go anyware.

and i have built many dodges over the years but never ran in to this much of a differents from side to side, with out seeing major body panels replaced.

at this point i can only see 4 small welds that are not from factory, all inside paint is the same, except for both doors that red not blue/silver in color

[b_chandler]

Originally Posted by rickibrat2

1. wheels are sitting in there normal state on 8x8 blocks.

2. frame was checked on a frame machine here are a local body shop

3. i am installing the frame stiffeners, from the top down by opening the frame rails up.

then installing the 1x2, so i have 16 inch of it in the front frame member and 8 inch in the rear frame member. these are then welded into place

Holy overkill Batman. Especially for a 2.3 powered car. I'm curious as to how you're going in "from the top down". You might be removing more structural integrity than you're putting back.

You don't need to be that far into either frame. I can't say for certain, but you may have found (in an odd way) that the frame rails are not formed identically from side to side. They're apparently parallel and square, but they're not mirror images of each other.

[NavySVO]

Originally Posted by rickibrat2

guess that would be the way to do it if i had the money, and a place that built cars for a living around here.

It was only around $200.00 for everything. It wasn't a place that builds cars for a living. I took it to a frame and collision place that is in the area.

[rickibrat2]

Originally Posted by b_chandler

Holy overkill Batman. Especially for a 2.3 powered car. I'm curious as to how you're going in "from the top down". You might be removing more structural integrity than you're putting back.

You don't need to be that far into either frame. I can't say for certain, but you may have found (in an odd way) that the frame rails are not formed identically from side to side. They're apparently parallel and square, but they're not mirror images of each other.

long term goals are a fully built 460 cu in with 2 speed automatic

As far as what is going back in. It is a competition engineering 12 point cage system.

might as well built it right first time so i just have to change front end and go to motor plates to make the change of motors

this little 2.3 use to run 100 yd sand drags in just over 3 sec.
and in till the last rebuilt in march of this year,

I could still start it with a heavy duty vw starter, but after last rebuilt i had to go to a 4:1 starter to get the cranking speed to start motor.

motor should be somewhere around 3.0 LT's now

not even sure if NHRA will let me run motor or what class i will be put into. due to the build of the motor, bet it will not be with other 4 bangers

[SM90Stanger]

4:1... or 14:1?

Correct me if I am wrong, but with a 4:1 CR, you would probably be at 1L not 3L... lol. 14:1 would probably get you well beyond 3L though.

For my 2.3, I am just doing a couple of tubular SFC. I would really like to see your setup Navy...

Steve

[rickibrat2]

Originally Posted by SM90Stanger

4:1... or 14:1?

Correct me if I am wrong, but with a 4:1 CR, you would probably be at 1L not 3L... lol. 14:1 would probably get you well beyond 3L though.

For my 2.3, I am just doing a couple of tubular SFC. I would really like to see your setup Navy...

Steve

4:1 is starter ratio. on a starter ratio is for each turn the starters spins the out put gear want to spin the motor 4 times with gear redution

sorry my motor is 12.3 to 1 doing math

my motor will not run on a NA computor for the fuel injection it flows more air then that computor can deal with so i have to run the PC1 computor i also have an adaptor that i can plug in an hook up the ACT and plug in my LA3 unit

the LA3 unit has a spark drop out of about 8200 rpm VS the PC1 of 5500 rpm.

i have seen lots of people say they had a race motor and you remove there valve covers and they have stock cam towers, my cam towers had to be renforced to prevent them flexing under load.

My head was done here in town by a shop that use to be into endurance racing, so i have big chev valves that were ported and reshaped then sent to calif. to a place that does a rev flow of the heads with a subtance that cleans up and smooths the walls then they were flow matched to with in a few cc of each other.

In the last 10 years of running this motor it has only let me down one time.

all the rebuild have been do to sand getting in the motor i have never found a way to totaly seal the motor from that.