[HalfPackLX]

Finaly pulled my engine last night. A cousin of mine broght over his hoist. Today I've got to find some bolts to mount it on the stand. now I can get cracking on the rebuild.
I got a die grinder and a few carbide bits, but need a few more.
I pulled the engine with the tranny still in. My first engine pull. Not too hard but would have been easier without the tranny in. Any suggestions for getting the bolts loose from the drive shat to the yoke at the rear end? I wish I had a compressor and impact gun. Probably with have to get one.

[Bossnutt]

Originally Posted by HalfPackLX

My first engine pull. Not too hard but would have been easier without the tranny in. Any suggestions for getting the bolts loose from the drive shat to the yoke at the rear end? I wish I had a compressor and impact gun. Probably with have to get one.

Actually they are easier to pull out with the tranny still hooked on. Atleast that's the way I usually do it. As for the drive shaft bolts, use the "double wrench" method works everytime. Use the normal 12mm wrench for the bolt itself and then "connect" another wrench usually 2 sizes bigger like a 14 or 15 onto it. Most likely you'll need to get a long screwdriver or pry bar to wedge in there to keep it in place so it doesn't spin on you.

[Kobra Killer]

Use Liquid Wrench & let it soak for a few hours. Also try tapping the wrench with a rubber hammer. It acts like an impact just not so much. This also works for screws.

[74stang2togo]

The best solution I've found for the bolts in the rear yoke is a ratcheting box-end wrench (Craftsman, Ampro, Cornwell, Gearwrench, and several others make them, each with their own various features) I have the Ampro set, and it's 12-point 12mm box-end makes short work of those bolts every time, just use some liquid wrench, PB Blaster, WD40, or good ol' tranny fluid on the bolts first and let them soak a few hours so you don't bust your knuckles or your wrench trying.