[Lowerednjuiced]

1990 Mustang 2.3L Turbo swapped in Greece-doesn't run right between 3200-4300 rpm
The engine putts, exhaust thumps and pops... and it makes a blahhh sound.
After 4400 RPM it'll reach up to 7500RPM without a problem. The ECU computers I installed on the harness make the car run almost the same...but every computer which is installed gets really ... really HOT!

Its a 1990 Mustang convertible in Greece that I did a Turbo Coupe install on. I did a lot of work to it to make sure everything came out right. The only things that weren't changed are the cylinder head, pistons, rods, crank with bearings and the block.
The block was drilled for the oil return.
The head has a roller rocker system.

For the mass air flow system I installed a 1991 Supercoupe F1SF MAF on a 1996 Thunderbird 70mm MAF housing. It also has the injectors from that same supercoupe though I tried many other types of injectors including #357 Volvo turbo injectors, 35# brown top Turbo Coupe injectors, stock 2.3L injectors and 24# Lincoln injectors. I made my own cold air kit that sucks air from between the passenger fender and front bumper.

It has a 255LPH fuel pump with BBK fuel pressure regulator and fuel gauge on a newer 2.3L fuel rail. It holds about 45LBS.

The inake manifold, throttle body, intercooler and turbo are stock parts from the 2.3L Thunderbird TC. I have a 65mm BBK throttle body to install this summer but I also have a 90mm throttle body, air flow sensor and cold air kit that might be installed if I can find the proper turbo and intercooler.

Above the inlet side of the intercooler is a 1990 Eclipse blow off valve...bolted to the side of the intercooler.

For the ECU computers I have tried all but the PE. I have LA2, LA3, LB2 ..all get super hot after only a few seconds of the engine starting up. The LB2 seems to let the engine rev smooth above 4400 RPM. The other computers make it seem like the car is dragging an anchor. The ECU is dangling from the dash to get more air but I plan on using a couple home PC computer fans to cool it down.

The MAP sensor is plugged in but the hose is plugged off as it should be (right?).
There are no vacuum leaks anymore...the brake booster was sucking in air preventing the engine from running at all. I took it apart and cleaned it up, even fixed the seal. All Vacuum hoses where replaced, a couple had tiny cracks.

GAS: Gasoline in Greece is much different than what we have in the states. The lowest octane level is 95, the med is 100. I have always filled up with 100 octane gas in Greece and throughout other countries in Europe which I have driven this car.

In a country like Greece where there are almost no Mustangs there is no chance of ever finding parts unless you order from the states. 2 summers ago I needed a clutch for this Mustang, it took 16 days to find one even close...a Ford Sierra, like the XR4 Merkur, clutch plate is the closest to a T5.

I live in the Seattle area, this is my summer car in Greece where I spend up to 3 months a year. This last summer I did a lot to make this car go fast and look good...I even shipped an aluminum driveline, 4.10 gears, short shifter, big brakes, GT body kit (I cut the bumpers in half to ship'em!). I've spent $8000+ on parts and shipping them to Greece this last year.
I live on an island where there are many turns, hills and paved mountain roads. I live in one of the villages up on the mountainside and driving uphill in the car now is like walking uphill after spending 3 hours at the Old Country Buffet. I cannot take passengers and trying to keep it above 5000 RPMs at all times really sucks up the $7 a gallon gas!

So you can see how frustrating it is to have a problem like this drag down my Mustang.
Any help will be taken into consideration!

[danchez]

If you are using LA2 or LA3 EEC, there is a boost control solenoid that is actuated by the EEC. Is it detonating between 3k and 4k? Also the homemade cold air could be an issue. Its possible to bypass this but there are other mods necessary to make it work.

[Lowerednjuiced]

Boost controller solenoid? Is it the small round thing with 2 hoses and a 2 wire plug? I have one but I don't know where the hoses go. I also don't know what wires to splice the plug wires in for that, or what pins to add it to the computer.

There was also some kind of octane wire that gets cut and spliced into another wire. Since I run on 100 octane gas it would make sense to do that but I'm not sure what wires that refers to.

Would you or anyone else know?

[danchez]

I do have a wiring and pin number schematic, plus where the hoses go. Got a fax#? I can shoot you a copy when I go back to work on the 22nd. Hope it will help. It will only work if you are using LA2 or LA3 (LA3 is best)EEC-IV. Also, what is your injector size, which VAM (cfm) are you running, turbo compressor housing has a bung on it? What timing are you running? What cars are the EECs out of?

[mg man 75]

Mention running Maf, Has it been reprogrammend for MAF. La-3 wires differant than say a pk-1 computer? Are you using low impedence injectors?. I say check wirining at pin out to match computer. Here is site for pinout. 87-90 Mustang Turbo Swap Wiring Info Should be running vam if computer has not been reprogrammend for maf. I don't know how to do this. Mine is still vam type. Here is page on injectors use the low impedence one. TurboFord FAQ
Site for pinouts and wiring diagram. www.rothfam.com - /svo/reference/
Will have to to one label Pe to La pdf. Can't to direct link. Repost if we can help. Ps I am new here but not to the 2.3t I installed mine about 2 years ago and using as daily driver.

[mg man 75]

Injectors for La series must be low impedence type. Also has computer been reprogramed for maf. The la series vam. Has it been pin correct? Hope this helps.

[Lowerednjuiced]

Having AOL doesn't help with saving links, user names and passwords...I'm back though!

Danchez, I don't have a fax machine. I do have the little round doohickey with 2 hoses.
The turbo inlet does have the hose end bung but we plugged it off.
I have many different engine computers, 4 LA3 computers, 2 LA2 computers, various other ones too including a P series from a SVO. I have many VAMs too, various engines from 1985 to 1988 TC 3".
I'm guessing I'll have to change back to the original brown top injectors and a VAM.

Timing was put at 6 degrees, not sure btdc or?...but 6 degrees was where it was running the best.

MGMan75: The injectors and MAF that we tried are from a 1991 or 1992 Thunderbird Supercoupe. Red top injectors, they felt like the best working injectors.
From the injector chart I recognize the 35lb brown top injectors and 30lb green injectors we tried. I'm so good at changing them now that it only takes me about 10 minutes total.
Thanks for the links, I've spent about 3 hours memorizing them!

I see in one of the links providing information about wiring that the boost controller wiring can be ignored in favor of an adjustable boost controller. I bought 6 of those on Ebay with the chrome dial and red body.
Those wiring diagrams on rothfam makes it all look easy.

Thank you so much guys! Hopefully this is enough to get my car moving right!

[mg man 75]

I would get back to a stock turbo system first get it right and tune from there. La series are for 87 to 88 turbocoupe. They use the larger 3" vam. turboford.net has a excellant search feature in the vam. Can join there It is a 2.3 turbo only forum. Good people and extremely helpful. Just do a search first they are a little testy about repeating themself at least a few of them are. Timing is 10 degree btdc with spout removed. {small two wire connector near distributor] reinstall when done. Most using a manual boost control. Got mine from boostvalve.com. Presently got mine set at 15psi. I need better intercooler to go more.

[Lowerednjuiced]

I should start at stock first...but I know I jumped right into trying to put out massive power. This summer we'll be trying to get it to run right and then next summer we're going to do the ball bearing turbo on custom manifold with big intercooler. It might have been easier if the octane level of gas in Greece wasn't so high! Thank you!

[mg man 75]

I wish we had some high octane gas here. Premiun is 93 Minium for my MG is 99. You can make massive power out of these engines. Try youtube and search on Huber Mustang. He has some good drag runs on there. His is a Ford motorsport 2.5 liter. It is a long block 2.3. Ps he is running full interior with rollbar. If can help will be glad to do what can. e-mail or pm me. Maurice

[Lowerednjuiced]

I read about the Huber Mustang in a magazine and saw pics. A gray 1979 with tall cylinders. Thats insane though.

The 1 thing about making a car go fast in Greece is that there are no straight lines on the road.
On the island I live on (summertime) there aren't any roads that don't have a curve after about 300 feet. I rolled over a car in the summer of 2002 when I turned a corner and there was a car stopped in the middle of the road, a Hyundai Atos, full of tourists. Coming up the other way where a Jaguar and a farm truck. I had to hit the right side of the road to avoid them but the car went up the embankment and rolled.
I miss that car...but I don't want that to happen to this car.

I need it to go fast from here |---to--- there and slow down before I hit this )

Right now it putts and spatters no matter where it goes --- ') -- (' --v/)
I have about 15 pages of information to sort it out, all great info.
Thank you!

oh, the car I rolled over was the green one in the pics. Its an English 1975 Ford Mk1 Consul Granada Ghia Lowrider...say that 5 times... i miss that car, it was my favorite.

[mg man 75]

Sound a little like Ky. A curve around every corner at least in my part of state on back roads. Here is some suggestion a man gave me on another forum for mine. I also want handling.
Motorsport c-springs
Gt front and rear swaybars polyenlink and bushing up front
5.0 calipers rotors and lines.
Tokico sport shock and struts
Stang Suspension upper and lower rear control arms
Subframe connector [welded in]
Polybushing in front control arms
camber caster plates
Hope this helps I haven't research these items. But I respect the man the idea comes from.
Ps Glad you were hurt bad from this. Must have been a heck of a ride.

[Lowerednjuiced]

The brakes look really small behind the 17" wheels. The rear brakes look unsafe as drums aren't very reliable. I know that turbo coupes use rear disc brakes but I don't know if they fit the 7.5" rear end.

I actually sent 2" lowering springs, rear sway bar and other stuff but it needs more body stiffening and handling mods.
Driving through France along the long straight roads was nice, however, when crossing into Italy and driving up through Mt. LeBlanc's huge tunnels was scary stuff!

[Lowerednjuiced]

Here's a youtube picture video of the mountain range in France that I drove through...

YouTube - Air trip above France (Alps, Mont Blanc)

If you aren't used to driving through tunnels with narrow 2 lane roads with traffic coming on the opposite lane don't do it! I followed a semi truck through the longest tunnel, about 30 miles at 70 MPH, with another semi tailgating behind me and every car or truck coming the other way put chills down my spine.