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Old 07-18-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1987 to 1992 Mustang Rear Suspension very hard

I have a 1988 Mustang 2.3L LX. The rear suspension on the car is very stiff. I have replaced the coil springs, and replaced the shocks. The rear is still very stiff when driving and almost makes for an uncomfortable ride.

I suspect the bushings on the trailing arms and the lower control arms. I am wondering if there were any "modification" tips to stiffening the rear suspension that could have been done by a previous owner, or if the bushings are just worn out.

I noticed when I changed the coil springs that the control arms were very stiff and wanted to stay in the horizontal position. I took this for being somewhat normal as providing some of the lift for the suspension.

Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.

1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
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Old 07-28-2008   #2 (permalink)
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OK, If anyone has this problem, I found a temporary solution.

I jacked up the car and supported the frame on jackstands. I allowed the rear axle to extend as far as I could allow it to go. I checked the bushings and found the trailing arm bushings cracked where they attach to the pumpkin on the rear axle. I also noticed the other bushings have become hard and inflexible. I saturated the bushings with penetrating oil (PB Blaster) but WD40 may work as well. I allowed the oil to soak into the bushings for a few hours and then took the car down. I noticed the car sitting higher than before, but this was typical for extending the suspension like I did.

I have driven it for several miles since then and noticed a considerable difference in the rear suspension movement and absorption of bumps. Where I live, the roads are horrible and although not potholed, there are expansion sections that rise like speedbumps on the highways here.

I am sure this is only temporary and when the cold sets in or the car sits for a while, the bushings will freeze up again. But in the mean time, I am not cracking teeth while driving to work.

If anyone gets any use of this, then more power to ya!

I still welcome any additions anyone has to this.
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.

1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
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Old 08-23-2008   #3 (permalink)
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I would look into changing those bushings before winter sets in. I thing you found the problem with your stiff suspension. Bushings. I've been looking into Steeda bushings for my 1993 Lx you can get a whole kit for like $39 bucks.
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Old 08-25-2008   #4 (permalink)
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If you change out the bushings, just make sure you tightenen the control arm bolts with the weight of the car on the tires vise jackstands or they will bind an be FUBAR again.
This may be what the previous owner did.

The bushings for the upper control arms are only changable in the differential housing. The other side bushings are pressed into the arm.
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Old 08-26-2008   #5 (permalink)
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thats weird.. i wish we could switch suspensions... mine is really soft, and i want it to ride firmer..
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Old 08-27-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Waht NavySVO states is logical and may assist you in firming up your rear suspension. by removing all the weight off the wheels and loosening the frame side of the control arms (DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT - the coil spring is attached to the control arm and will release explosively) you in effect wind up repositioning the bushing. When you retighten the control arm bolt and really the weight, you in effect "bind" the bushing from flexing. this seems a cheap "shadetree" way of stiffening the suspension, but I can tell you its effective.

I would recommend first changing the coil springs and checking the shocks. The coil springs are about $50 at advance auto, and the shocks should be about $20 each. Give that a try first. Then firm up the bushings if you want.

That is MHO though. Hope it helps.
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.

1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
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Old 08-27-2008   #7 (permalink)
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I also found a replacement bushing kit from EnergySuspension.com for about $100 and a complete car kit for about $250 shipped. These are noprene bushings and will not dry out like the old rubber ones.
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.

1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
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Old 08-29-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnyxps66 View Post
I also found a replacement bushing kit from EnergySuspension.com for about $100 and a complete car kit for about $250 shipped. These are noprene bushings and will not dry out like the old rubber ones.
I don't know what 'noprene' is, but neoprene is the same as the stock bushings. Urethane is what is not affected by oils. It, also, won't dry out the way the stock bushings do. It never hurts to have your facts straight.
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Old 08-30-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0Stanger View Post
I don't know what 'noprene' is, but neoprene is the same as the stock bushings. Urethane is what is not affected by oils. It, also, won't dry out the way the stock bushings do. It never hurts to have your facts straight.
Aside from the fact I cannot spell, "noprene" was supposed to be nEoprene. My bad. Additionally, Urethane is the correct component in the kit to which I was referring. The kit, found here

Hyperflex Bushing Kits Ford Mustang 85-93 Red :: 0 :: Energy Suspension

is actually polyurethane, which, in addition to oil resistance and hardening or "drying out", is also resistant to stress fatigue, compression, and wear over standard rubber replacements.

Now, since I said Urethane was the component, will I get points off because the description says "poly"urethane? Does that mean these are made with more "urethane"s than regular urethane bushings?

//Okay, enough sick humor, its too late at night. Bottom line, thanks for the correction.
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.

1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
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Old 08-30-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnyxps66 View Post
Bottom line, thanks for the correction.
You're welcome.
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