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Old 08-12-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Default Air vents stop blowing when accelerating

In my 1989 Mustang the air stops blowing out the vents and blows through the defrost when accelerating. So I replaced the vaccum motor that controls the panel vents. But it still blows through the defrost. Could it be a bad check valve? If so were is it and what does it look like?
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Old 08-12-2008   #2 (permalink)
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It is indeed a bad check valve, but I have no clue where it is.
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Old 08-14-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Same thing started happening on my big Dodge truck, apply power and the A/C vent closed. Found a vaccum leak and it fixed that. Cant say if that is your problem, but worth looking into.
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Old 08-14-2008   #4 (permalink)
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my mustang had the same thing, also turned out to be a vacuum line leak, my boyfriend fixed it with a piece of plumbing line from lowes, definitely worth looking into
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Old 08-14-2008   #5 (permalink)
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mine is the opposite, when i get going, air blows out of the vents, and the switch for the air/heat is in the off position... same thing?? check valve?
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Old 08-14-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Default Vacuum leaks

Check first around the intake manifold for vacuum leaks - ANY major vacuum leak can cause this, even if the lines and valves which work the vent flaps are fine.

Frankly, this era car is prone to have ALL the original vacuum lines rotted or worn out. And there are a good many of them, too.

Before even starting the project I would check for cracked or decaying vacuum lines. At the first sign (which won't take long to find, I think) stop and go buy the 2 or 3 sizes of hose you are going to need to re-line the system. Do it one step at a time, and be thorough - and yes, those almost impossible to access lines buried deep and against the firewall ARE the most likely culprits. Check each valve or device as you come to it. Be prepared to replace them too.

After taking care of the lines under the hood, re-test your situation. Those lines are exposed and usually fail BEFORE the lines inside the car. You might get lucky and fix your problem without diving under/behind the dash.

In my case with my 88 LX, I had to remove the dash TWICE to get to all the bad lines, although the second time was mostly because of my own inexperience and lack of documenting all the wires, cables, and lines I disconnected along the way! (Take pics, before and as you go - and invest in a good manual, the expensive Ford document is what you will need).
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