[scjeff]

Hi all, my 1993 2.3L has an issue. My kids were driving it and after they pulled away from a stop sign, the car died. It had 76K miles on the odometer so I supsected that the timing belt had given up.

I pulled the inspection plug and sure enough I saw shredded teeth sticking out.

I had the auto club tow the car to my driveway and the next day, I swapped in a new timing belt. I reassembled everything and no start.

I was very careful in determining TDC and so I believe that the problem is other than static timing. I also believe that it was the failure that shredded my timing belt's teeth off.

I do hear the fuel pump spin up with the key in the "ON" position and the engine does turn over easily.

For reference, I had an issue when I first acquired the car that had a laundry list of sensor and coil error codes. So I have replaced the MAF, the two coil packs, the plugs, wires, ICM, and the computer.

The car ran beautifully for 4 weeks and then boom. Sudden death.

The question is: has anyone seen this before and how was it overcome?

[Gomini]

if the car starts up and then shuts off then try cleaning the throttle body. at least that is what is wrong with the 2.3l i am about to get.

[scjeff]

Thanks but on this one it is no fire. It just turns over.

[b_chandler]

You say you set TDC that's got the crank in the right place. Did you make sure the cam was in the proper position? Even if the mark on the cam gear lines up, you could be 180 crank degrees off.

[mg man 75]

I have heard of problems with the Aux shaft that goes to the oil pump failing. May want to take cover off and see if it is turning. I have not took apart a distributorless 2.3 engine. Is the cranksensor close enough to timing belt that when it failed it damaged the cranksensor? Just a crazy idea.

[5.0Stanger]

Food for thought: 1993 2.3Ls have a crank sensor to tell the EDIS to fire.

Did you move the crank sensor to install the new belt? If you did, you were supposed to use the realignment tool (plastic tool from OTC for around $18) to get the sensor gapped correctly.

I didn't move the sensor, when I did mine. Mine wasn't shredded, but not in good shape. I just cut the old belt off, moved the crank sprocket guide (you can't take it off, without removing the sensor)(behind the sensor), sprayed some silicone spray on the belt (to let it slide past the sprocket guide), and installed the belt (per the installation instructions in my repair manual). The power picked up a bit, but didn't completely solve the problem I was having.

The 1993 2.3L (VIN M) engine has a special timing belt preloading procedure, because of the EDIS. On a normal 2.3L, you just preload the drive side (where the tensioner is) and be done with it. The 1993 model, though, requires both the drive and coast sides of the belt to be tensioned. The 'thick' Chilton manual, I use, has the whole procedure. That way I don't have to blurt it all out here. If you have any other problems, send me a pm.

Hope that helps.

[5.0Stanger]

Originally Posted by mg man 75

Is the cranksensor close enough to timing belt that when it failed it damaged the cranksensor? Just a crazy idea.

The crank sensor isn't in a place that I think a broken timing belt can damage it.