[dehtrucks]

1993 mustang 2.3 runs fine with battery cable off ,with the positive cable on it shakes and acts like it is possessed.Did battery test with cable on and off has between 13.50 and 14 amps.Any ideas?

[heavy metal]

Welcome to the site!!!! I would try another battery,that one may have some problems.

[stlwagon]

Welcome... Let's look in here.

[Mustanq]

It could also be the positive battery terminal cable. I had to replace it on mine since it was corroded and had a lot of resistance. So after I changed it, it had a lot more cranking power. Cost me about $14 bucks at napa.

[dehtrucks]

thanks for the ideas checked battery and cables still acts crazy with pos cable on could it have some other wire grounded out

[5.0Stanger]

Originally Posted by dehtrucks

1993 mustang 2.3 runs fine with battery cable off ,with the positive cable on it shakes and acts like it is possessed.Did battery test with cable on and off has between 13.50 and 14 amps.Any ideas?

Amps? I'm thinking you mean volts. Your battery test consisted of what, removing the positive cable from the battery while checking battery voltage? I suggest having the battery tested with a battery tester. I'm not saying your test sucks. I just don't think it helps to diagnose the problem. If you have a digital VOM (volt-ohmmeter), remove both of the cables from the battery. Set the meter to the "continuity tester" setting. It'll be the setting that makes the meter "beep", when the test leads are touched together. Touch one of the leads to a good ground and the other to the positive cable. If the meter "beeps", your positive battery cable is shorted-to-ground somewhere. Perform the same test on the negative cable. The meter should "beep", with the leads connected as with the test on the positive cable. Your 13.5 and 14 readings were possibly the voltage output from the alternator being applied to the battery. After the engine is started, the battery is no longer running the car's electrical system (the alternator is). Also, if the battery terminals are very corroded, it would be best to clean them off with a baking soda/water mix (especially before getting the battery tested).

Good luck.

[dehtrucks]

Sorry meant to put volts and I have a battery tester battery is testing fine as well as alternator,cables are not corroded.I must have some wire grounded somewhere lot of wires left to check

[5.0Stanger]

Originally Posted by dehtrucks

Sorry meant to put volts and I have a battery tester battery is testing fine as well as alternator,cables are not corroded.I must have some wire grounded somewhere lot of wires left to check

I've got more questions for you: Is there a loss of power associated with this 'possessed' motor? How are the motor mounts? I recently changed mine, as I found that they were actually collapsed. I didn't know why my 2.3 was rattling the car, until put the drop springs on it. Now, with fresh mounts, no vibrations. And, I had changed many other tired parts to get there.

[dehtrucks]

motor mounts are ok ,replaced battery cables,fan,alt,and yes is experiencing loss of power.Car idles very rough then you give it fuel it runs smother,after you cut it off wont start back.Bought car for 100 bucks bound to have some kind of problems.Oh yea replaced throttle pos sensor.

[5.0Stanger]

Originally Posted by dehtrucks

motor mounts are ok ,replaced battery cables,fan,alt,and yes is experiencing loss of power.Car idles very rough then you give it fuel it runs smother,after you cut it off wont start back.Bought car for 100 bucks bound to have some kind of problems.Oh yea replaced throttle pos sensor.

Have you checked the fuel pressure. Better yet, have you changed the fuel filter? How about the air filter? Check the PCV? See where I'm going? A car that you got for $100 is like you said, 'bound to have some kind of problems.' I paid a little more for my '93 Notch, and it had quite a few problems. I'm still working the bugs out of it. I ended up changing the timing belt, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, air filter, fuel filter, PCV, cleaned the IAC, sprayed a water mist into the throttle body (to break up some carbon), and made sure the EGR is not stuck partially open. A chunk of carbon can hold the valve open.

Looks like I own a similar basket case, huh?

Hopefully, my laundry list will help you find somewhere to start. If you try to tackle the timing belt yourself, send me a PM. I'll give you a great tip on getting past the crank sensor without touching it.

[dehtrucks]

well thanks for the tips done them all did check egr had some carbon made the problem a liitle better still having some though.

[5.0Stanger]

Originally Posted by dehtrucks

well thanks for the tips done them all did check egr had some carbon made the problem a liitle better still having some though.

I'm sorry that I couldn't help you find a solution. I did try some Lucas fuel treatment, thinking it'd work on the vibrations I had. It did help some. In the end, it was that both motor mounts had collapsed.