[Milner540]

Spent the weekend working with my son (clypsogreen93)on his '93 Mustang. The 8 plug head needs new cam bearings, and a valve job. The block upon serious inspection is cracked around water passages near cyl #4. So we search for new block. A Cousin donates another 2.3 from a carburated car. When we open this one up, (a) the head gasket was blown between cyl #3-#4. Also the edges of the pistons on #2,3,and 4 are burnt away. Other than that the block looks OK.

Should we try taking the pistons out of the cracked block and just putting them in the donated block? Send the donated block to the machine shop to be bored and then installing new pistons? If we do tear it completely down, what issues will I encounter if I get new Rods and pistons for a 2.5 and rebuilding the block into a slightly bigger motor? Also I probably will replace the cam and followers in the 8 plug head with standard hydraulic flat followers. We can get a cam and new lifters for a LOT less than a new Roller. Cost is a BIG object at the moment. But I wish to build him a strong, reliable engine for his Fox Body.

Any one know of a good machine shop in the Griffin Ga. area?

MIlner 540

[b_chandler]

Here comes the fun.

The old carbureted block may not work without some modification.

Your original block has holes drilled in the front of the block for the precise placement of the crank position sensor. Some guys have had luck making a template and drilling it themselves, but it's not easy.

The cranks won't interchange directly. The '93 crank has smaller main journals so if it's the better of the two, you're going to need a set of spacers. You'll also need them if you go the 2.5 route since you'll need the 2.5 crank and it's got small journals too. I keep trying to piece enough of it together to make it work in my head, but I can't.

If you run the aluminum oil pan on the old block, the rear pan seal won't match, and unless the block had a 1-piece rear main seal, it won't match either since they used different rear main cap. If you run the steel pan, you're in the basically the same boat except the opposite. With the steel pan, now you have it mismatched at both ends, since the front seal plate for the steel pan isn't made to clear the spot where the crank position sensor goes.

I wish it were easier, but I don't think it is. If it were me, I'd hunt down a junkyard '91 or later Mustang, Ranger, or Mazda B2300 or find one already out of the car. The upfront money might hurt, but it may be easier on the wallet than the nickel-and-dime deal that seems to be in front of you now.

On the subject of the camshaft, if you're looking to replace it with another stock cam, keep the roller. They don't wear like the sliders do and the stock cam in the '93 is actually sought after by some folks. If nothing else, you can make a quick buck on ebay from it if you're looking for a little bit more camshaft and budget is keeping you in the slider isle of the store.

Where is Milner?

[Milner540]

Well Busy weekend. Cleaned and Painted engine bay in my son's car yesterday. Now it is all nice and pretty calypso green again. Today we put another 2.3 and T5 into the car. After fighting with some uncooperative mounts, we finally got it installed. Spun up the fuel pump a couple of times to get pressure on the rail, and it cranked up! The engine started and ran for long enough for us to learn that it idles quiet and smooth, engine does NOT smoke, the alternator does not charge right, and none of the guages on the dash work.

I guess I was a bad daddy because I made him stop at that point and go Study for school. While he is doing that I will pour over the wiring diagrams and see if I can figure out a plan of action. If anyone has any ideas where to start, Feel free to reply!!! I might take tomorrow off and work on it while he ( clypsogreen93 ) is at school.