[beast]

Hi all,
I am new to all this but i am having trouble with a 1988 mustang lx 2.3 has no power and will not go over 3,000 rpm can you help

[ethangsmith]

First things first, run the codes! That should point you in the right direction. If you're unsure of how to do it, Chilton and Haynes manuals have instructions. It's easy and quick to do. It could be a multitude of things causing it. Anywhere from a computer system fault to clogged exhaust or intake, to a fuel system malfunction. Does it just flatline at 3K rpms or does it begin to misfire?

[beast]

I'm not sure if it is a miss fire or not just cuts out and comes right back. It leaves a black sout on the ground from exahest and the plugs also have sout on them to

[ethangsmith]

If you have soot on your plugs and coming out the exhuast, you are running way rich. I would definitely run codes. I'm sure something will show up there. Almost sounds like a bad MAP, oxygen, or throttle position sensor.

[beast]

k thanks ill try that and keep you in touch

[NavySVO]

One thing to consider is the ECT which tells the EEC what the coolant temp is so that the EEC can schedule injector pulse properly.
It's located in the center of the lower intake between number 2 and 3 injectors

[beast]

ok i have ruled out tps and converter still will not get over 3,000 rpms not really sure where to go from here does anyone have more ideas what it could be

[beast]

not sure what that is

[ethangsmith]

Have you run the codes yet?

[beast]

yeah nothing comes up

[beast]

is it posible to put a 5.0 in this car

[ethangsmith]

It is. And it's not that hard. I hate telling people that as I do like the 2.3L engine a lot. In your case, you've got some funky issue going on. You had mentioned that your ruled out the TPS. Did you test it and if you did, did it show a steady increase in voltage as you open the throttle? At this point, I would try replacing some easy stuff to see what happens- like the ignition module on the distributor and the MAP/BP sensor. Also, replace your spark plug wires with name brand good quality ones. I had a set fail on me after a few months. The insulating lining on cheaper brands will actually absorb moisture or develop small pinholes and that allows spark arcing. I had my 88 throw all sorts of fits above about 2K rpms because of it. I put good Autolite Pro wires on it and it's been great ever since.