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Old 12-02-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Any Suggestions? 1990 Mustang 2.3 will not start

Hello,
My son has a 1990 Mustang 2.3L that quit running a couple days ago. The battery tests good. Fuses are good. We replaced the starter solenoid, the alternator, the starter and the fusable link from the soleniod. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Chad

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Old 12-03-2008   #2 (permalink)
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does your fuel pump turn on when the ignition is activated/?, are you getting good spark? whhat does it do when you try to fire it up?
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Old 12-03-2008   #3 (permalink)
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try what the above person said, but If you ask me i would say check your crank/cam sensor(s). They both pick up top dead center which is the pulse that tells your engine when to fire. It could be firing but if those sensors are not sending the pulse it will fire all day but won't pick up b/c it's off sync. Also if one doesn't work return it and get another i went through about 4 before i got a sensor that actually worked! It turns out people just return the old parts. I mean i know people need the money but think of the next person. Ran around 4 a week thinking about what elese it could be just like you. turns Out It was just used crank sensors Got a new one ordered in and Fired right up! Stay in touch

Oh and if it's a 2.3 the crank sensor and the cam sensor are 1 unit so you'll be needing the crank sensor, it hooks up under the bottom of the timing belt and wraps up behind your belts uptop to where your ignition module is. Oh yeah i don't know if you have and advance or autozone near but they both can test ignition modules so just incase the crank sensor doesn't work then snap off the ignition modudle and test it for free @ either place. But 9 times out of 10 it's probley your Crank sensor unless you have a hole in your vaccum line where your air filter is. Aslong as your getting fuel and spark then it's either vaccum leak or CRANK SENSOR!!

Last edited by logical1; 12-03-2008 at 01:16 AM. Reason: On 2.3 crank and cam sensor is 1 unit
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Old 12-03-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Any Suggestions?

Thanks for the advice. I should have been more clear. It wont do anything at all! Won't crank-no lights-no nothing!
Chad
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Old 12-03-2008   #5 (permalink)
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sounds like battery/ your battery terminal's. Check for acid build up. The battery starts the ignition process. Look into it. IF your cables are really bad you might wanna replace the terminals or maybe even the whole cable itself. That can be found @ auto zone/advance 2.
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Old 12-03-2008   #6 (permalink)
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there is also a little box behind the key in the ignition harness that controls the start up. Replace the key ignition and the little box behind it that is connected to the ignition harness in the steering column. I think both together cost like around 50 bucks.
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Old 12-03-2008   #7 (permalink)
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No lights or anything means that the battery cables are either FUBAR or have crap built up on them like logical1 stated. remove, clean, and inspect them before you spend a dime.
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Old 12-03-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Default Thanks for the advice

I appreciate all of the advice. I will look into the ignition next, as I have already replaced the positive battery cable and the negative looks fine. The battery and cables were my first logical conclusion as well. Oh well, I'll keep trying. It has to be something!

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Old 12-05-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Alternator maybe? I had to replace mine.
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Old 12-07-2008   #10 (permalink)
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I hear you saying that u changed cables but what about the terminals?(metal clamps the connect to the battery posts') Also it would not hurt to have the battery tested, The battery can be new with low volts, even if it's new. Just to rule those options out. I know that you say things look good but the key here is ruling out factors. Process of elimination but since it's with a car you need to fix the cheap solutions b/c it's one less thing to think about. The part could look fine but if it has a functioning problem then you will never know unless you get a wiring diagram and check the voltage flow for pulse levels. It's less of a headache to replace it if your not willing to do the hours of voltage level testing.

when i say wiring diagram i mean a certified layout of the entire car's wire system color coded and flow mapped with voltage variations. You can get them at the dealership

I say replace it, especially if you plan on keeping the car. also check the computer to see if it's pluged in it might have come loose, especially if it's been removed before. the ignition box inside the steering column and the key and cylinder could be off track causing the car to act as if the key hasn't been turned.
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