[mzdiode]

Was driving to work morning and my car just died. The fuel pump is priming and I'm getting a strong smell of gas. I'm getting breaker pulses at the secondary on coil but no spark, I have replaced the coil with a known good one and into doner and it worked perfectly in doner and not in mine. I sure could use some help.

[19mustanggt87]

could be a faulty coil wire

[Matto211]

Try ignition control Module! Might also be the computer if nothing else. I have one that I'll sell if you need it! Just pm me! I might also have a ignition controll module too pm me.

[mzdiode]

Have tried a spark light and checked for spark - none. I've barrowed a VANTAGE POWER GRAPHING METER for diagnostic capabilities but haven't had a chance to use it yet, too cold. I've pulled the timing belt cover, checked to see if alignment is correct, it is, and not jumped a cog, hasn't. Replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, no help. As you can see, I've done all the most common things. I've also checked all the fuses and fuse links with a vtvm and all are good. This is why I require help.

[Matto211]

Ignition controll module, try it. I had this same problem a week ago. It turned out to be the ignition controll module! I have one if u need it. Then if it's not that try the Computer, because you may have fried a circuit some how.

[NavySVO]

OK, try this first.......it's free.

Remove the distributor cap and have a friend crank it over and see if the rotor is actually turning. If not, the distr drive gear has broken/stripped teeth. It can be replaced if so.

Next guess is the TFI (thick film ignition) is toast. It is located on the side of the distributor and requires a special tool to remove it. About $10 art an auto parts place. This is what is being referred to as and Ignition Module by Matto.
PM me an email address and I will send an electronic copy of how to test it with a meter. Or, most parts staores can as well.

What are you are calling a "secondary on coil"?

[RaceXr4Ti]

Try cleaning the battery terminals and maybe adding an extra ground wire. I had a dead merkur which needed an extra ground to fire up. It went in addition to the stock wiring from the top battery post to the bare body.

[bhurst]

I am having your same symptom with my 1986 2.3L, LX. Have you had any success mzdiode?
I am down to either replacing Distributor or the
ECA module. I haven't tried NavySVO's suggestion, or RaceXr4Ti's suggestion.
Let us know if you resolve your ignition issue,
as I am a week and a half before i can work mine again. Meanwhile car remains still.
bhurst

[bhurst]

Forgot to mention, I have changed TFI module and it didn't help. I purchased a Ford code reader
for 1981 thru 1995 and it is indicating KOEO code=22 MAP switch which cost around $100 bill
and it wasn't problem. Reading about PIP, part of
distributor with TFI module? Still scratching head,
replace distributor or ECA? Need help too!!!
My 2 cents
bhurst

[turboeeyore]

check the cap/rotor. does your tack jump while cranking? it could be the hall effect sensor in the dizzy.

[badgurl55]

Recently had to change head and put it all back together after it had sat for 3 years. My timing belt is adjusted per spec, gets spark and fuel .... why else would it not start ?
Also put a timing light on it and it came up about 20 degree after top dead center. I didn't unplug the one wire on the module, would this make it that far off?
What the @#$% do I test or do next ... I'm running out of idea's.
It's a 87 Mustang LX 2.3L that I'd hate to have to put out to pasture.

[mzdiode]

I have since replaced the TFI module. Bought a code reader and came up with three codes, 11,21 and 24 with KOEO which doesn't tell me a thing. Used the VANTAGE ANALIZER and came up with pulse is low, pulse cycle is messed up with less than one(1) volt in amplitude and pulse width is chopped with an extra step plane on the upward slope. It has basically said the distributor is at fault. I will be trying one of these next chance I get to work on my car. Will have follow-up later.

[NavySVO]

11 means all good. You should have not gotten any other codes if you got 11.

21 means the ECT is out of range
22 means MAP or BARO out of range.

So have you seen if the distr rotor rotates during cranking?

[mzdiode]

yes the rotor does turn when cranking.

[mzdiode]

i knew what the 11,21 and 24 ment and that the codes ment nothing in regards to the problem i'm having