[evintho]

Originally Posted by turbocharged89

Hey guys, I'm installing the pulleys, accessories, manifolds, and I had a question about the distributor. Once I "stab" it in, what do I need to do either before or during to make sure I will be set when I need to adjust my timing? What do you guys recommend I do? The motor is rebuilt and I'm just piecing it back together. Thank you in advance!

It's critical that you get your cam timing set correctly before dropping in the distributor. Here's a writeup on how to set cam timing..........................
CAM TIMING

Originally Posted by turbocharged89

What kind of bits have you guys used to do some porting of the E6 manifold and upper and lower intakes? Anyone know where to get them. I have a Sutherlands, Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace hardware down here. Sears? Let me know what you think.

These are the ones I used when porting my E6...................
Carbide burrs on Ebay

The intakes are aluminum and will just clog up the double fluted burrs although I heard if you keep a piece of cast iron handy you can grind it against the cast iron and that'll clean it. Ideally you need single fluted burrs to port on aluminum.

Joe Mondello has bags of cartridge rolls fairly cheap. His website is listed in my E6 porting guide below. The guide may be helpful to you also......................
E6 Porting Guide

[turbocharged89]

I appreciate the feedback. I have some coming and I cannot wait to get them in. Let me throw this question out there. I installed the TC 8.8 rear end with the 3.73s out back. Is this good gearing? I want the car to pull hard yet be well on my daily drives to work and back. I'm using a fully rebuilt A4LD with 225/55R16 Proxes out back. Also, when the vehicle was running I had to reverse a bit to the both tires to lock up. Someone has told me the clutches are worn. I have to switch gears, what ratio should I use and who should I get a rebuild from. I want the whole rebuild including the outer seals, axle bearings, crush sleeve or c-clip, everything. I am willing to do this right but just would like someones take who has been there before I have. Thanks fellas!

[evintho]

Originally Posted by turbocharged89

I installed the TC 8.8 rear end with the 3.73s out back. Is this good gearing? I want the car to pull hard yet be well on my daily drives to work and back. I'm using a fully rebuilt A4LD with 225/55R16 Proxes out back. Also, when the vehicle was running I had to reverse a bit to the both tires to lock up. Someone has told me the clutches are worn. I have to switch gears, what ratio should I use and who should I get a rebuild from. I want the whole rebuild including the outer seals, axle bearings, crush sleeve or c-clip, everything. I am willing to do this right but just would like someones take who has been there before I have. Thanks fellas!

3.73's are the stock rear gears for an auto. Should be just fine. Not sure about the clutches. You should probably talk to a reputable shop and get their opinion if it's the clutches, or not. Before I installed the 8.8 in Thunderstang, I dragged the whole rearend into a local shop and they installed a new pinion seal, new Timken axle bearings and seals for $100. I bought new C-clips at the Ford dealer and installed them myself when I swapped out the TC axles for the Mustang axles.

[turbocharged89]

Thanks Evintho. That is what I would like to do. I now the T-bird rear end is longer but is that from say stud to stud or just the outside of the axle tube housing? If this will work then what year mustang should I use for parts? Has anyone heard of using the 93 Cobra or SVO e-brake cables for the hand brake?

[evintho]

The TC 8.8 housing and the Mustang 7.5 housings are the exact same length. It's the 8.8 axles that are longer. If you want the stock Mustang track width just pull out the TC axles and replace them with the Mustang axles. They slide right in. The only bad part is if you want to retain the TC disc brakes you'll need to purchase offset caliper brackets ($150 from Northracecars.com).

Concerning the E-brake, you'll need the 2 cables from Ford Motorsports part # M-2809-A.

I did my rearend swap using this website..................
Fox 4-lug brake upgrade
They also sell the appropriate brakeline adapter ($10) that you'll need to adapt the TC brakelines.

The bottom third of my cardomain page has the details on my rearend swap........................
Thunderstang

[turbocharged89]

I just received a very gently used roller camshaft with rollers and everything. Do I really need that ford/rotunda valve spring compressor tool? How can I do this? I have it over at my wife's grandmothers garage and I have no shop air just nice snap on and craftsman tools. Anyone know of any detailed write ups? Alldata doesn't really help. Why does everything start with disconnect battery? To install air freshener please chock wheels and disconnect battery to prevent accidental roll of vehicle and electrical shock. LOL to my self.

[turbocharged89]

Anyone happen to know where I can get some E6 manifold bolts?

[NavySVO]

Originally Posted by turbocharged89

I just received a very gently used roller camshaft with rollers and everything. Do I really need that ford/rotunda valve spring compressor tool?

A couple of suggs here.....

1. I would use the tool. It is a pain without it. You don't have to have the Rotunda one. KD makes the tool (#3087) as well and you can get them on eBay like this one (only a lot cheaper than this auction) item 130281101855. I paid $25.00 shipped IIRC.

2. If done correctly you don't need shop air. Just disconnect the timing belt, remove the plugs to allow you to turn over the engine easier, and bring the piston of the cylinder you are working on to TDC. The valve keepers should hold the valve as well. Ensure you have the cam lobe facing 180* away from the follower (roller rocker).

3. If you are still worried about dropping a valve, rent a small compressor for a half day or so. This should noly take about 1-2 hours with everything already prepped.

4. Ensure you buy a new cam seal and wrap the cam sprocket bolt in some teflon tape or you will have a leak. I would also buy new assembly lube. Lucas makes a good one that won't contaminate the exhaust components (O2 sensor, cat).

[NavySVO]

Originally Posted by turbocharged89

Anyone happen to know where I can get some E6 manifold bolts?

Contact Bob. his bolts are the same
40Bob.com - 2.3T headers, ported and gutted intakes, and accessories.

[evintho]

Save your $$$ and make this. I literally made mine in 10 minutes and it works like a charm. I've used it a dozen times.................
HOMEMADE VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR By Jeff Korn

For exhaust manifold bolts just go to the junkyard and pull them off of any 2.3. Inspect them, make sure they're not too corroded, clean 'em up on a wire wheel and you're good to go!

[turbocharged89]

I appreciate all the feedback fellas. I have ported the E6 today and shaped everything to increase airflow and port matched to the gaskets. I took the exhaust bolts off the old 2.3 na motor and it worked perfectly. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good gasket set for the upper, lower, and exhaust? Guys I have mounted up an 89 Starion intercooler in front of the condenser and I have the outlet on the passenger side with a crossover pipe with the inlet meeting on the same side. My radiator is long to fit any pipes. Any suggestions? I need something shorter then the stock radiator. Does anyone know of one whick will let me use the factory top mounts? If not its not a big deal I will just have to fab the mounts. Also, I can't find my VAM pigtail! Anyone have a used connector? I want to thank everyone for thier replies and please continue the support!

[evintho]

Sounds like your making excellent progress!

This'll work for the intake. It's not the D-port gasket but it should be fine...............
Felpro gasket set

No need for a gasket on the E6. Ford never installed one, neither should you. To play it safe, have your machine shop mill the face of the exhaust flanges for trueness.

Can't help on the radiator. I installed an NPR I/C and used a Volvo radiator in my '89....................
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ICmounting.jpg

[turbocharged89]

Why the D-Port? I bought one from Ford 2 yrs ago and it was around like nine dollars. Does it seal better? If it's better then I need to look for it.

[evintho]

The D-port because your head is a D-port. If you can still get one from Ford, grab it but I think it may be discontinued. But hey, I've been wrong before! If you can't get one the round port FelPro will work. Also, NAPA sells a D-port gasket. The only difference is there's no hole for the coolant port. Now, that may be an issue in July in southern Texas! In the northern part of the country, guys don't have to worry about that as much. What I did was cut the coolant port opening in mine.

[NavySVO]

Originally Posted by evintho

The only difference is there's no hole for the coolant port.

You will need the opening for the ECT and fan sensors to work properly though.

Forced4 sells gaskets for 2.3 turbo engines as well as Ford. All the parts stores should have them as well.