1) This is actually a N/A lower diagram but the TC manny is pretty much the same, except a nipple goes where the fan switch is, to route the small coolant hose from the lines that go into the oil cooler and there are 2 holes on the side of the TC manny. The lower one is for the ACT sensor and the upper one is for the knock sensor.
Manny pic from service manual
2) Rubber hoses on the ends of coolant tubes. I had several preformed heater hoses laying around so I cut the 90*'s off and adapted them. You can still get the correct hoses from NAPA but they're pricey. Here's a diagram and pics of mine.
Coolant routing diagram Coolant lines 1 Coolant lines 2
3) On TC's the oil feed goes into the distribution block. I'm running an aftermarket mechanical O/P gauge and Stinger oil feed line. I picked up this adapter and a couple of brass fittings at NAPA. The oil feed screws into the top and the copper line for the gauge screws into the end. Disregard all the writing. It was for another post.
Adapter for oil feed
4) Oil drain fitting screws into the block, passenger side, down low. You can't miss it!
Turbo oil drain fitting
Stinger sells oil drain flanges and hoses.
Oil drain parts AN conversion chart
5) On the cartridge between the compressor and turbine housing, below the oil feed fitting on each side are threaded holes. If you don't have the factory fittings, go buy some at NAPA. The feed line is the hole closest to the block and the drain is on the other side.
It's best to go with metal lines that close to the turbo, however, I use high-temp (silicone, I think - black on the outside and green on the inside) heater hose, again purchased from NAPA, on my daily driven '86 TC. Been running it for almost 3 years with no issues.
6) Your buddy is right. It's not on the T/B, it's on the upper intake. Cut the 90* off so it doesn't hit the V/C and run a hose off the straight part. It's simply a vac port into the upper intake.
7) You might have to fab some new mounts, but you can simply slide your radiator over a tad so the I/C pipes will clear.
8) Are you talking about the high-temp heater hoses for the coolant lines? If so, see #5.
Other things to do:
a) Fox bodies have inherent ground problems. Cut off the heads and weld some bolts to a small plate then weld the plate to the frame. One on each side. Here you can attach your NEG batt cable and a couple of ground straps.
Drivers side ground plate Pass side ground plate
b) Relocate your TFI. The below writeup is on my '86 TC. I did the same procedure on Thunderstang, minus the SS heat sheild.
TFI relocation
c) Rebuild your distributor and install a new PIP.
Distributor rebuild
d) If you're feeling creative, build a turbo heat shield. It really helps keep down underhood temps.
Turbo heat shield
e) When the time comes, this vac diagram will probably come in handy.
Vacuum diagram
That's it for now. I hope this all helps.
Turbo motor almost complet:Questions galore 
Well, everyone...It is almost time. I have several small issues before dropping the motor. Right now it is on the engine stand with beautiful powder coating, holley injectors, billet fuel pressure regulator, nice roller cam installed, ported uppers and lowers, all brackets and pulleys on but, I am not sure about a couple of things. 1.) I am not sure if I used the 87-88 t-bird lower manifold or the 89 mustang manifold. It's powder coated and ported so I have to use it. The deal with that is I don't know what sensors to use and where they should go. Any pics out there would help with the sensor placement. 2.) Also I have powder coated the steel coolant lines and I am not sure which tubes route where and starts or finishes with heater hose. I am using a T3 water cooled turbo off a XR4TI that a fellow member graciously offered up for purchase, thank you. 3.) I have steel braided line but I need to know if the oil feed line should come off the distribution block where the oil pressure sending unit is or from somewhere else. 4.) Can anyone also tell me where the return line goes into the block? I must add that I do not have the flange for the bottom of the turbo for the drain line, what should I do? (Also does anyone know the ArmyNavy converions of fittings?) 5.) Where does the drain and feed for the coolant lines to turbo go and is the line metal or rubber and what fittings go on both ends? I have nothing to go on. 6.) I have the t-bird valve cover with the dip in the middle but I bought the straight valve cover with the 2.3 EFI TURBO stamped on it and now the curved metal tube from under the throttle body won't clear and my bud says since it is vaccum we can cap it or thread a short fitting and run a small tee. What do you guys think? I think that hole is needed just becuase where it is placed on the throttle body. 7.) I have the starion intercooler which enters and exits through the passenger side between the condensor inlet/outlets and radiator. My problem is with the radiator mocked up, there is no room for 2 inch piping to squeeze through - Does any one know of a shorter radiator to use or can I move mine over? The length from tank to tank is 28 inches. 7.) Where can I find those short little high temp/fabric looking orange hoses I always see in pictures coming off the turbo and into the block or steel tubing? What is it and do I need it? If so where can I buy them, or even a better substitue would be great too. I know I have quite a few questions, it's just this motor was totally disassembled when I bought it and I do not want to guess where everything goes and I don't want to be left wondering what is missing or what I should have done. Speaking of which, is there anything and I mean ANYTHING ya'll can think of to do while the motor is out? Any steps not to overlook? All the help I have been given has been great, thank you all! Time slips soon? 
