Hey, im gonna get headers for my 2.3 and i was wondering what to do with that pipe coming out of the manifold, some one said its the ERG or EGR. can i take it off? what would i have to do?
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91 Mustang GT: BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, BBK Off Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-back, Msd Blaster Coil, Msd Dist. cap, Msd Wires, Pro 5.0 Shifter, A/C and Smog Delete, Steeda Adjustable Clutch cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster, summit rotors.
just make a metal plate to cover where it would go into the manifold and plug any vacuum hoses. It may screw with your knock sensor, so if you aren't to worried about the engine actually knocking you could unplug it if it does not like the removal of the EGR piping.
the egr is manditory for e testing and roadside inspections,(if applicable) also the egr eliminates detonation or "spark knock". so if you remove that and you're engine "knocks" the knock sensor will detect it and retard your timing, you will have to run high octaine fuel and advance your timing a bit to get rid of your ping, but this has been done so don't let me discourage you, just unplug the vacuum line from the egr (plug the vacuum line with a golf tee or screw) and take it for a drive, see if you like the performance. unplugging the vacuum line keeps the egr from opening.
the egr is manditory for e testing and roadside inspections,(if applicable) also the egr eliminates detonation or "spark knock".
Knock is caused be detonation of fuel. Detonation is caused be either ignition timing being too advanced, intake temps too high, or poor fuel. The EGR allows hot gasses to enter the intake to assist in burning all the fuel to reduce emmisions.
Injecting hot gasses also AIDS in detonation if conditions allow. So if you remove this possibility, it doesn't add to knock.
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Originally Posted by turboeeyore
just unplug the vacuum line from the egr (plug the vacuum line with a golf tee or screw) and take it for a drive, see if you like the performance. unplugging the vacuum line keeps the egr from opening.
Knock is caused be detonation of fuel. Detonation is caused be either ignition timing being too advanced, intake temps too high, or poor fuel. The EGR allows hot gasses to enter the intake to assist in burning all the fuel to reduce emmisions.
Injecting hot gasses also AIDS in detonation if conditions allow. So if you remove this possibility, it doesn't add to knock.
Just unplug the solenoid, it does the same thing
i don't totally agree but i'm not going to argue, it's not going to hurt to try it.
I did a way with my EGR sensor/valve. I made a plate out of aluminumn and caped my exhaust manifold. I didnt unplug the EGR sensor from the harness because I didnt want my check engine light to be on all the time. I have a 1993 LX and the dual plug head so I dont know if that makes a difference.
alright so i just looked at the EGR and there is one vaccum line going into it. do i just plug that line and the hose fitting coming out of the egr if i wanna leave it on there but make a block off plate. and the vaccum line goes to a green line and that goes back to a lil cylinder. can i take that cylinder off and the vaccum line and just plug that green hose. or if can i just leave the vaccum line in the egr since the plate will block it anyway.?
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Ýøüñg~Mèchãniç™
91 Mustang GT: BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, BBK Off Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-back, Msd Blaster Coil, Msd Dist. cap, Msd Wires, Pro 5.0 Shifter, A/C and Smog Delete, Steeda Adjustable Clutch cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster, summit rotors.
Yours is alittle different than mine. You have vacume lines too. I just unbolted it from the inteke side and plugged the exhaust manifold and made a plate that bolts on where the EGR was.
ya me too but i mean the vaccum line going into the EGR there is one line going into it. do i plug that, and if u follow it, it goes to a green line and back tracks to a canister and ya can i just cap the green line.
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Ýøüñg~Mèchãniç™
91 Mustang GT: BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, BBK Off Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-back, Msd Blaster Coil, Msd Dist. cap, Msd Wires, Pro 5.0 Shifter, A/C and Smog Delete, Steeda Adjustable Clutch cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster, summit rotors.
The way I did mine when I installed the header was to cut off the metal pipe that goes to the exhaust man. crimped it and welded it shut to make it airtight. I left the valve there and left the vacume lines hooked up. No more knock or ping than normal. No lights.
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'90 LX coupe , 2.3 Fi. auto. Grocery getter-1/8 mile killer. Mods: removed airbox and silencer, added short cone filter. New exhaust including header and 40 series FLOW, Weld Draglite Skinnies in front, 8.5's with 275/60/15 M/T ET Streets on the rear.Thats right, I EXPLODED a 7.5" posi unit at the track. I sure do miss it.
I'm like a duck, calm and cool on the surface, Paddling like HELL underneath.
does that mean you had pinging and knocking before? your egr must not work cause everytime it gets vacuum it would let in air and make your car idle real high, if the pipe is no longer attached, and it's open to the elements, allowed to suck in dirt and crap.
Removing the ERG or EGR? 
Mods: removed airbox and silencer, added short cone filter. New exhaust including header and 40 series FLOW, Weld Draglite Skinnies in front, 8.5's with 275/60/15 M/T ET Streets on the rear.Thats right, I EXPLODED a 7.5" posi unit at the track.
I sure do miss it.
