I recently bought a 93 2.3L 5-speed. And the guy I bought it from replaced the clutch a couple of months ago, but now it is really really difficult to shift like I am forcing it in gear, sometimes making the gears clash (not good). When I have it in 1st, and the clutch is pressed all the way down(and I mean all the way down to the floor board), the car will move forward like an automatic when the brake is not pressed? I’ve driven plenty of stick shifts and I know its not supposed to do that. I’ve tried pulling the clutch peddle forward like I’ve read online, but the peddle doesn’t move forward, what do I do? I don’t want to take it to a shop cause I don’t have much money, I’m in college. The clutch should still be good, I just need the cable to be adjusted so that the clutch is fully working, not just partially (if you understand what I mean). I'm pretty good with working on cars, so I know I can do it myself, I just need help with how to do it. Please help. Thank you
you look @ Auto Zones Repair guide. here is the cable info
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Lift the clutch pedal to its upward-most position to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the quadrant and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
Open the hood and remove the screw that holds the cable assembly isolator to the dash panel.
Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine compartment. On 5.0L engines, remove the cable bracket screw from the fender apron.
Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
Remove the dust cover from the bell housing.
Remove the clip retainer holding the cable assembly to the bell housing.
Slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable.
Remove the dash panel isolator from the cable.
To install:
Install the dash panel isolator on the cable assembly.
Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through the hole in the clutch release lever. Slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly away from the hole in the clutch release lever.
Install the clip retainer that holds the cable assembly to the bell housing.
Install the dust shield on the bell housing.
Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the vehicle. On 5.0L engines, install the cable bracket screw in the fender apron.
Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the isolator with a screw.
Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then, pushing the quadrant forward, hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant.
Depress the clutch cable several times to adjust the cable.
the pawl my not be retracting when you pull up on the pedal to reset the quadrant. Get under the dash and lift it up as you push up on the pedal (towards the headliner)
when you have you're head under the dash, look above the gas pedal, the cable comes through the firewall above the gas pedal, you'll see a white half circled piece of plastic where the cable attaches (quadrant), pull up on the pedal while watching the quadrant, you should see a small square looking piece of plastic sitting above the quadrant sitting in the teeth on the quadrant, thats the pawl. the pawl should come up off the quadrant when the pedal is lifted, when it does, grab the quadrant and pull it toward you, it should tighten the cable, then let go of the pedal, if it doesn't work then the adjusting teeth are broken and you'll need a new quadrant, it's cheaper to buy a aluminum non adjustable quadrant and firewall adjuster,its a pain to put in, i wish i had a pic but both my 2.3l 5 speeds have non adjust. ford racing quadrants.
it's cheaper to buy a aluminum non adjustable quadrant and firewall adjuster,its a pain to put in,
I just received my OEM, in a Ford box, from a dealer, replacement quadrant in the mail. $52.00 shipped from California.
Mine still works, but I am going to replace mine when I drop the dash for the heater core replacement.
Depends on where you looks and what dealer you deal with. My local dealer said $70.00. The place I got it from was $40+change and charged me $52+change total shipped.
My CLutch that i just recently changed is haveing problems too..
I can push the pedal all the way down and when i need to let go and push the gas. It catchs not even 1 centimeter from the bottom. The first time i tried to get outta the driveway i peeled out and then died. I started it up again and rolled it to the street tried to go and it jumped again this time i floored it and it started to go. But everytime i change gears it still catches only at that spot. I was wondering how to fix this problem. the last clutch i had i needed to bring the clutch out maybe halfway and then meet it with the gas. Is it just the new clutch that i need to get used to or is the cable messed up. Ive gotten a couple of comments regarding a clutch quadrant and cable. You think that will help. thx
Thanks, just about all of you were of some help. I crawled under there with my laptop on the center console to read all the advice you gave me. I guess what i did was adjust it by "one tooth". I pushed and pulled until i heard what sounded like a click. I left it alone, jumped in the car and took it down the street. with only 90K miles on the car, it ran just as good as my late model cars, it shifted smooth with no "forcing", it runs great now, its finally enjoyable. thanks again
now i can start looking for a ranger header to compliment the Injen intake i hacked to fit. that is a picture of my engine bay in my avatar by the way. I also hacked the bottom half of the air box and bolted it back into the factory location, so now it flows with little restrictions. working on this little 2.3 is not bad. again, thanks alot you guys.
I need help with adjusting my clutch 
thx
