I am having a really weird issue with my 87 2.3 coupe. The car has no spark whatsoever. I have changed the distributor, cap, rotor button, ignition coil, and ignition module. The car ran for a couple of minutes today, but died a mile down the road with no spark once again. Even while it did run, the engine had no power whatsoever. The car had been having problems with breaking up going down the road, and had been really weak trying to leave stop signs from time to time. It seems like whatever was going on has given out completely now, but I have no idea what is causing the problem. I have read in other forums that when you crank your engine, the rpm guage should read 2-300 rpms. Is it supposed to read that the whole time the car cranks? Because if so, it is only moving for the first turn over and then the needle returns to zero for the remainder of the cranking. The timing belt is on and not skipping, and has been changed within the last year and a half. I am really stumped on this one. Any help would be appreciated...Thanks!
Yeah, I changed that yesterday too since I had a spare one laying around. I have also taken a new wire to test for spark from the number one connection on the distributor cap, nothing. I have checked the resistance on the coil and it is fine, so I really have no idea right now what is going on.
Remove the distributor, press out the roll pin holding the gear on and disassemble the distr. and replace the stator. Reverse the order to re-install.
Get the engine to TDC first to make things easier on the re-install.
Thanks for the reply. If that is the case, I might as well just take that distributor back and get another one since I just bought it the day before yesterday. I will check and see how much the stator is, might not be worth the hassle to wait for advanced to order in another distr.
remove the harness on the distributor and look down the clip holes, make sure none of the metal prongs are bent over, had that problem on a f150, don't know how it happened but it happened.
If that is the case, I might as well just take that distributor back and get another one since I just bought it the day before yesterday.
Nevermind. I missed that part above. Stupid me.
Try this, it's free:
Hok up a timing light like normal and have someone turn the car over while you depress the trigger. Does it strobe? If so, you ARE getting spark. I know you say you aren't getting spark, but this will definately confirm the fact one way or the other. Remember, it's a freebie check.
Have you tried running codes KOEO to see if you have a problem with the EEC?
I also posted a TFI and distributor troubleshooting page up here somewhere (a few times). All you need for it is a meter and about 15 minutes.
I went out and checked the pins on all the connectors, they are all fine. I have already gotten another distributor and will be installing it tomorrow. The timing light was not functioning when the car was checked for spark. I checked the computer codes the other day and it brought a couple of codes up, but none were related to this situation, though I can't remember what they were off hand. Once I get this new distributor in tomorrow, I will post the results. If this distributor does not correct this issue, I really will be at a loss on this one. Thanks again everyone for the responses.
'90 LX coupe , 2.3 Fi. auto. Grocery getter-1/8 mile killer. Mods: removed airbox and silencer, added short cone filter. New exhaust including header and 40 series FLOW, Weld Draglite Skinnies in front, 8.5's with 275/60/15 M/T ET Streets on the rear.Thats right, I EXPLODED a 7.5" posi unit at the track. I sure do miss it.
I'm like a duck, calm and cool on the surface, Paddling like HELL underneath.
Well, the second new distributor fixed the problem. The car started right up. After adjusting everything and giving the car time to warm up, it is the best the car has run in years. It would seem that the first distributor I bought was defective. Go figure. Thanks everyone for your responses on this thread, it was all extremely helpful. I would like to ask another quick question or two. The car runs really well, but it still wants to hesitate in first or second from time to time. I have to floor it for it to have any power. Its not all the time, and it did this before I changed the distributor. It was one of the main reasons for changing it in the first place. The fuel pump, filter, and all of the ignition system has been changed. I was wondering if it may be the MAP sensor, or if there was anything else that may cause this particular issue. I have also noticed that there is no real noticeable change between accelerator pushed a little and all the way down from third gear on. I dont expect this car to burn tires or anything, but I would like a little pull for passing cars and things like that. Anyways, thanks everyone for your responses so far and I look forward to reading everyones ideas on this issue.
I figured I would try and pull codes from the car. It pulls the key on engine off codes fine, which gave me 31 and 67. 31 is the EGR system and 67 has to do with either the AC, or the Neutral switch. Given my AC clutch is not connected, I would assume it is that. The problem is the car will not start while it is connected for diagnostics. I read in the Haynes manual that the first start advances the timing 20 degrees, but like I said the car wont start. As soon as I disconnect the jumper wire, it starts right up. Does anyone have any ideas?
1987 mustang has no spark 
Mods: removed airbox and silencer, added short cone filter. New exhaust including header and 40 series FLOW, Weld Draglite Skinnies in front, 8.5's with 275/60/15 M/T ET Streets on the rear.Thats right, I EXPLODED a 7.5" posi unit at the track.
I sure do miss it.
