[Antec360]

I am having a few issues that I am hoping you guys might be able to help me with. The first is, I am trying to locate the Temp Sending Unit on my 92' LX 4cyl 2.3. The only thing I could find was the oil pressure unit and the EEC coolant unit. I purchased a new sending unit because my gauge will not function at all. It just stays bottomed out even during start-up.

The second issue I am having is my Rad fan will not start-up even after the car has been running idle for 40mins. I believe it may just be the EEC coolant unit that maybe broken but I am not to sure as I am having issues with the dash gauge (as stated above). I have already tested the fan with a direct connection to the Batt with a switch and it works fine, But I was wondering if there was anything else that I could do before going out and spending $60 on a new unit?

Also do you think the 2 issues may be related in some way? and if I can get the gauge in the dash to work again would it be possible just to rig up a manual switch inside to start or stop the fan as a temp fix so that I dont have to run out and buy a new EEC coolant unit?

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

[evintho]

First off let me say, I'm familiar with single plug head/distributor/turbo motors. However, I'm pretty sure the short blocks are basically the same. Your temp gauge sending unit screws into the hole where the green letters say 'water temp sending unit bulb'............................................. .....
Water temp sender hole

On my '89 with an '88 turbo motor there are 3 senders/switches. They're probably the same on your '92. The one I just showed you is the sender for the W/T gauge.

The 'EEC coolant unit', as you call it, is actually the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor. It's located in the top of the lower intake manifold between runners 2 & 3. I doubt it's broken 'cause there ain't much to break and it's a vital sensor. Based on coolant temp, it sends a data signal to the ECU which determines calculations that affect timing and fuel delivery. If it were broken, the car wouldn't be running good, at all.

Lastly is the fan switch. It's located towards the top of the lower intake where the upper and lower meet. It will be pointing towards the drivers side shock tower. Should be 1 wire coming off of it. That may be why your fan isn't working, but more likely it's your fan controller which is located underneath the dashboard. Climb under there and look for a little black box bolted to the underside of the steering column. If you don't want to replace the fan controller, you can easily wire in a toggle switch but make sure it's wired through, at least, a 30 amp relay. May even want to go to a 50a.

[Antec360]

Thanks Evintho for all the help. I kinda a newbie at this so bare with me please. Now when you say the fan switch is that screwed into the block as well or will it just be plugged into a wiring harness?

Also how will I know if the switch or controller is bad without going out and buying new ones? Is there a certain test that I can do on it? And as far as wiring up a toggle switch through a relay, I know how to wire it up through a toggle switch and all but how would I go about wiring it up through a relay?

Again sorry kinda a newbie at this.

[evintho]

Here's where the fan switch is located, at least in my '89. I don't have a scanner so I just took a pic of my shop manual............................
Fan switch

Not sure about testing the fan controller. Maybe you could take it into an automotive electrical shop and they could test it for you. I think this is a pic of what yours would look like. It will have plugs on both ends with a lot of wires coming out of it.................................
Fan controller/relay

I like to wire my relays to turn on via the negative circuit (bottom most diagram).
Understanding relays

[Marvin]

The '92 has two temp sensors, one in the heater hose, right side just in front of the firewall (which I think feeds the guage), and one on the rear of the left side of the engine near the oil pressure sender. The controller is the IRCM module mounted on the right shock tower-controls the power to the EEC, the A/C clutch, and the cooling fan.

[Antec360]

Thanks for all the help. I found the sender unit and it turns out that whoever worked on the car before unplugged the sensor, so the gauge is working fine now. I will take a look for the fan switch and the controller to make sure they weren't unplugged as well, lol. I called the ford dealership here to see what they had to say and I was told just to run a manual switch, so I think that is what I will do.

Thanks for all the help.

[NavySVO]

Running a manual switch is all fine and cheap, but for the safety of the engine you may want to consider a fan controller system.

A company called SPAL has developed very affordable fans and fan control systems that work with any application, and can put everything under the hood where it belongs.

The SPAL system will even work with the stock sensor, or they can provide you with one of their own.

Kits are available from many vendors. Google it

[Antec360]

Thanks for the info, but I got the manual switch all setup and I will just start up the fan when needed myself. It will do until I can gather up some money for a new controller. But ya I just rigged it up with a 30A relay and toggle switch and mounted it next to the shifter. Looks kinda slick, and of corse everyone asks me what it does...I just tell them it launches the rockets lol.

Again thanks for the help/advice everyone.