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Old 04-24-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Default Cooling fan problems 1987 Mustang 2.3 LX convertible

I'm trying to get my Mustang on the road after being parked (neglected) for about 2 years. The electric fan does not come on automatically when it feaches temperature, but will turn on when the A/C is turned on. Back then, it ruptured the radiator, and stoped the return to the road at that time.

I read that there is a fan control switch somewhere on the engine. Where is it? Also I read that there is a cooling fan controler. Where is it. Also, I see an electrical link to the PCM. How do I check to see if this is the problem?

I don't have a lot of money to work on the car, but will spend what I have to to get it on the road. One problem at a time, for now.

Thanks, Joe
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Old 04-24-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Do a search here for more info, but.......

The switch on the engine in in the lower intake.
The controller is under the steering column, a bit larger than a pack of smokes, black box, TRW on it.
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Old 04-24-2009   #3 (permalink)
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you may not have to worry about this because the car may not even get hot when you drive it i know mine doesnt my fan doesnt ever turn on no matter how hot unless it sits at idle for 15min.
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Old 05-02-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help. The cooling fan is important in Phoenix because of the high temps we run here, especially if you get into traffic on the freeway...you wouldn't believe how many cars I see on the freway that overheat because of the fan. They just have to wait for traffic to die down or get towed.

I'll start to work on the car on Sunday, then next Sunday by the time I can get time off. Any advice in reserecting the "grey gost" is appreciated

Thanks' Joe
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Old 05-03-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Im having this same problem only a little different,

I took it to my mechanic and its my rad fan relay/module [under the dash]. Where the wire harness connects to the relay it either got fried or burnt.

Within that relay is 2 connecters, 1 for the engine [when it gets hot it clicks in] and 1 for the AC [when it gets too hot it clicks on]. My AC one was fine, but the engine side of it was fried.

Getting another relay is gonna be hard, just look up a scrap yard or even ebay. you have to be very careful on replacing this, I bought a new relay but different model # on it [ended with a "B" where the origional ended with an "A"] and my car rejected it [it fried the cirquit board within the relay lol]

Not sure if this is the same for you as im not a mechanic but i though i'd throw this out there
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1990 Ford Mustang Convertible 2.3l
K&N air filter with Air silencer removed
New speaker system added [sub + amp soon to come]
Flowmaster 40 series muffler going on soon can't wait. New seats in the near future. At the moment really trying to get the A/C to work, but its not lookin good
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Old 05-06-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Default Fan relay

They are available new, but they are not cheap.

RockAuto Parts Catalog

MOTORCRAFT Part #E7ZZ8B658B3A $74.99

Last edited by davido30093; 05-06-2009 at 01:10 PM. Reason: Additional information
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Old 05-06-2009   #7 (permalink)
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This is a known issue with these cars.

That is why I went with an aftermarket contraoller that is about $35 more dollars than the TRW part and won't fry out like these do.
Google SPAL
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Old 05-23-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Default fan relay.

The fan drawing too many amps is sometimes the reason the controller gets torched. If this is the case , replacing the controller leads to another torched controller. If the connector is melted, which is often the case, it will also need to be replaced.

After having to do this on my car I added a relay to the fan circuit to keep the controller from carrying the current that runs the fan and have not had a problem with it ever since.
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Old 06-27-2009   #9 (permalink)
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Where did you locate this fan relay and is it easy to install?
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Old 09-06-2009   #10 (permalink)
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I located it near the diagnostic connector by the driver side hood hinge. There is a four pin connector there that carries power from the fan controller to the fan motor. I think the wire is orange with a tracer. I cant remember the tracer color. Use this power wire (controller side)to power the 85/86 circuit on a 4 or 5 pin bosch relay. Run battery power to pin 30 of the relay. Then put the fan side of the orange w/tracer wire to the normally open side of the relay. That would be terminal 87 or 87a, I cant remember which is NC or NO. Dont forget to ground the other side of the 85/86 relay circuit.
It also gives you the benifit of easily jumping the fan with a short jumper wire if you need to. Dont forget to use a continous duty relay. It will be listed in the electrical application guide parts book (the one with the pictures for the book challenged parts person) next to the regular duty relay. If you are fortunate enough to ask an experienced parts man for it ask for "a 5 pin continous duty bosch relay". I got mine at an O rileys and they had it in stock. If i remembr right one or two of the terminals will be copper color instead of silver.
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Old 09-06-2009   #11 (permalink)
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Oh, and dont half ass the crimp connectors. Get some good shrink type connectors or shrink wrap the connections. If you use cheap connectors or scotch type connectors they will fail and the fan will not come on or intermittantly not work. It would really suck to blow a head gasket or worse over a cheap butt connector.
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