I can't get the timing belt off so I tightened up the old one and made sure the timing marks were still good. It took me 3 tries to keep it straight. It turns by hand easy enough. Still nothing. I put the 17 lb injectors back in. Nothing. I sprayed carb cleaner into the TB, started for a second then dead. Now it won't even crank over. WTF. My only thought is to by a running 2.3 and swap it. I want to beat the whole thing up with a mother F***ing sledge hammer. I got a HAYNES book, no help. It only gives you the basics that any monkey knows from birth. There is one thing, the #2 + 3 wires on coil pack one was crossed according to the book, but when I switch them to the book it doesn't want to start at all.
it the crank sensor back on correct? did u take the stuff off like i said?
The crank sensor is on correctly. I couldn't get it off cause my breaker bar is to short to lean it on anything. So I tightened the belt up and made sure the timing marks were right. It's all good but still won't run. When it finishes raining i'll check for spark and hopefully it's a wire or coil pack.
I got spark from the coil packs to the wire, from the wire to the plugs. So I got spark. I got fuel in the rail and pressure. Maybe the DIS module? Or would it not get any spark at all if it was bad? Aaarrrrggggg!!!!!!!
If you have fuel to the rail, do you have firing injectors that are actually putting fuel to the cylinder
Quote:
Originally Posted by 93foxbody2.3
My only thought is to by a running 2.3 and swap it.
If you have the money to do this, then have a mechanic fix it and then leave it alone. It seems the more you mess with it, the more stuff breaks on it Jr.
you need either noid lights or a stethascope to listen to the injectors, niod lights are about $20 and work great, a stethascope is around $10. injector pulse is ran by the crank sensor, so i'm going with a crank sensor. the other thing i am thinking is i've had the tfi harness bend a tab and while pushing the clip back on force a wire out of the harness, 2 weeks of headaches before i traced every wire to find the problem. it was nice to have a 2nd car to revert to so i could double check what each wire should have for voltage.
you need either noid lights or a stethascope to listen to the injectors, niod lights are about $20 and work great, a stethascope is around $10. injector pulse is ran by the crank sensor, so i'm going with a crank sensor. the other thing i am thinking is i've had the tfi harness bend a tab and while pushing the clip back on force a wire out of the harness, 2 weeks of headaches before i traced every wire to find the problem. it was nice to have a 2nd car to revert to so i could double check what each wire should have for voltage.
If I check for fuel pressure with the key in the on position I get nothing. If I try to start it then check it shoots up about an inch. Is it possible to fry a 4 cyl fuel pump with bigger injectors on a 2 hour WOT trip?
And now when I try to start it I get a loud clicking from the starter solenoid. If I try to start it with the starter solenoid I get the same clicking. Now would that be the solenoid or the starter kid?
so you've got fuel right. and crank sensor is good. you've got spark (or had) you know what. take a ball pein hammer get somebody to get in the car and "try" to crank it over and you go under the hood and LIGHTLY tap on the starter. its a good possibility that your starter might have locked up, and that would cause the solenoid to click. (unless it is a bad solenoid.) but try that its worth a shot.
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(Newer Motor [70,000 miles] Spectre Cold Air Intake, EGR Delete, AC Delete, Cat Delete, Flomaster 40 Series Muffler, Shortened Exhaust, American Racing Outlaw Series II Rims, Stalker Hood, Pioneer Deck Set, 12" Pyle Quoobz, Planet Audio Amp, [500 Watts Total]. Comp Cam [mild], Bored .30 over,
First off is it a single click and then nothing. Do you hear the starter engage. Or is it a constant clicking of the solenoid. If it's the first part just try turning the crank by hand a bit. Sometimes the starter drive doesn't line up with the teeth on the flywheel/flexplate. If is the second part than obviously you have an electical problem from trying to take the timing belt off. Just go over all the connections that deal with starting/cranking the car. Battery posts, battery terminals, terminal to cable connection, cable to solenoid, starter to tranny and so on. Make sure they are clean, tight and that nothing is broken. Both positive and ground circuits. Is the battery is fully charged. These are the things that will cause the solenoid to click. It sounds more like this type of problem.
First off is it a single click and then nothing. Do you hear the starter engage. Or is it a constant clicking of the solenoid. If it's the first part just try turning the crank by hand a bit. Sometimes the starter drive doesn't line up with the teeth on the flywheel/flexplate. If is the second part than obviously you have an electical problem from trying to take the timing belt off. Just go over all the connections that deal with starting/cranking the car. Battery posts, battery terminals, terminal to cable connection, cable to solenoid, starter to tranny and so on. Make sure they are clean, tight and that nothing is broken. Both positive and ground circuits. Is the battery is fully charged. These are the things that will cause the solenoid to click. It sounds more like this type of problem.
It's a single click then dead. My mechanic says the starter. I put a jump on the battery from a running car first to see if the battery was dead. Still click and nothing. How can I get an electrical problem from trying to get the timing belt off? All I did was unhook belts and pulleys.
1993 Mustang 2.3 litre-Engine Problems 
