OK, let me see if I can decipher this post....
1. You have a high idle issue because of the cams? How many cams do you have? High idle is not a bi-product of any certain cam.
2. You need to set base idle and the TPS to get things squared away as a baseline. Here is how:
Courtesy of the SVOCA Forums
To set the TPS you will need the following tools.
1. Small Phillips screwdriver
2. Digital Voltmeter
3. Analog Voltmeter
The base idle needs to be set properly prior to setting the TPS.
see below for instructions on setting base idle
The next thing to do is hook up the analog meter to the green and Black wires. With the key on open and close the throttle body slowly, you should see the needle move in a smooth arc without jumping around. If the needle jumps there is a dead spot in the TPS and it will need to be replaced.
The next step is to set the TPS to the proper voltage with the key in the on position. Using your digital meter, connect to the same wires as you did in the above. The TPS voltage should be as close to .90V with the TB in the closed position. At full open (WOT) should be around 4.5V to 4.75 V. If the TPS is not within the above settings, loosen the 2 phillips head screws and rotate the TPS until you get to .90V at closed throttle. Tighten the screws, and recheck your settings again.
How do I set my Base Idle?
To set your base idle you will need to have the car running, at operating temperature, all accessories off.
The next step is to disconnect the IAC (Idle Air Controller). The engine speed should slow to around 750 or it may stall. The proper setting is listed on the emissions decal on the cover of the coil.
With the IAC still disconnected set the idle speed using the adjustment screw on the front of the TB. Operate the throttle a few times to make sure that it is set properly.
Turn off the engine and reconnect the IAC and start the car. After a few minutes the idle should set itself around 950 to 1025 RPM. After doing this procedure, it may be necessary to reset the TPS.
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Now, if you have your heart set on an LA series computer, look online at
www.turboford.net in the FOR SALE section. Remember that an LA series is not a plug and play thing. You will have to repin the EEC harness and aquire 35# injectors as well. Be aware that the inline intake and knock sensor will send a "pronounced" knock signal to the LA EEC and cause it to pull back timing. 2 things will eliminate that :
1. Unplug the KS (definately not recommended)
2. Convert to a square-style intake.
You say
Would any newer 4 banger have a computer that I can use and wont have problems. or wonder what year ford ranger computer I could use?
No on both. You need an EEC for a turbo car.
In addition, it appears in your avatar that your front mount IC is located directly behind your radiator? That is heat-sink in the making right there. You are actually ADDING heat to the charge-air. Not good.