[NavySVO]

Forced4 has all the coolant lines and hoses for sale if you want to replace them.

[OneOwner88LX]

Originally Posted by NavySVO

Forced4 has all the coolant lines and hoses for sale if you want to replace them.

Thanks for the tip, I'll check them out.

[TOM RENZO]

The oil warmer is stock on turbo coupes. It warms the oil in the winter and is said to be an oil cooler. I have done excessive dyno testing on that system. LEAVE IT OUT AND USE A FL1 filter. The two sensors on the T5 are VSS and REVURSE lights. You will need the VSS to be hooked up to the new car you are swapping into. I have done several of these swaps in my shop. Piece of cake.

[turboeeyore]

if you use the larger N/A oil filter ( fram PH 8A)it will come close to hitting the steering column, you need to use the smaller oil filter ( fram PH16) if you leave the oil cooler in place.

[TOM RENZO]

If you leave the oil warmer out you remove it from the engine and then you can use an FL1. If you use the warmer then you will have to use the short PH 16. PS i never use FRAM. They are garbage.

[NavySVO]

So did you conduct testing during any open tracking with the car? If so, what were the differences in oil temperatures after extended times of hard driving?

[turboeeyore]

Originally Posted by TOM RENZO

If you leave the oil warmer out you remove it from the engine and then you can use an FL1. If you use the warmer then you will have to use the short PH 16. PS i never use FRAM. They are garbage.

believe what you want, but i've worked in parts stores and fram oil filters have the best filtration on the market, even better than k&n, says so on the box, 96 % filtration, k&n is around 85% and ac delco is a 72%, i've never heard of a fram failing, and thats the only filter i've ever used.

[OneOwner88LX]

I plan to run a Wix or Motorcraft filter.

My son wire wheeled the engine down and sprayed it with brake parts cleaner to remove all oil residue. Replaced the oil pan gasket while engine was out. Rear main and other seals/gaskets were leak free so I left them alone. With engine upside down and oil pan off the engine looks new inside with very fresh looking cylinder walls and pistons.

Turbo Coupe is fully parted out and hauled off to the junk yard. Now time to focus on putting the Mustang together.

[evintho]

Originally Posted by turboeeyore

believe what you want, but i've worked in parts stores and fram oil filters have the best filtration on the market, even better than k&n, says so on the box, 96 % filtration, k&n is around 85% and ac delco is a 72%, i've never heard of a fram failing, and thats the only filter i've ever used.

I wouldn't be so quick to defend Fram. They are truly junk! A MUCH better filter at the same price is Purolator. I use Purolator on all my fox bodies. Check out this oil filter study...............

Opinions and Recommendations - Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

[OneOwner88LX]

I think this pretty much sums up Fram:

"Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it."

[turboeeyore]

i'm not going to argue, it's just like the argument of chev, ford , dodge, you like what you like, i've never had a problem with a fram, but i have with wix, but now that i've heard this i may start buying motorcraft filters. i don't know who sells purolator in ontario canada.

[NavySVO]

Originally Posted by TOM RENZO

The oil warmer is stock on turbo coupes. It warms the oil in the winter and is said to be an oil cooler. I have done excessive dyno testing on that system.

Originally Posted by NavySVO

So did you conduct testing during any open tracking with the car?

I am going to take that as a NO......

If oil temps get into the 230*-250* mark, won't the engine coolant be advantageous if it were at 190*-195*??

[OneOwner88LX]

We painted the engine compartment and under side of the hood the with PPG urethane single stage. The color is 3R Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, the original color of the car.

[OneOwner88LX]

We gutted the upper intake, knife egded the lower, and did extensive porting on the E6 exhaust manifold. All external components were sand blasted and painted.

[OneOwner88LX]

Got engine/trans in a few days ago. Finished wiring it up yesterday, fired it up and got an open circuit code for the VAM. Quickly found the issue and corrected it. Then I got an EGR code which turned out to be a vacuum leak on the hose where the old 2.3 air filter box used to be. Corrected that and now no codes other then it complaining about the TC relays not be hooked up. Car fires right up, idles very nicely, and drives very well. The 5 speed conversion is also completed without issue. Even the reverse lights work! Car is not tagged but I did drive it up and down the private road my house is on and its got some get up and go!!

We bought a fan relay from Summit and powered the TC dual fans with it switched to an ignition-on source. We also wired in a toggle switch under the dash so fans can be turned off in the winter. Car runs very very cool with the fans running!