Wow kid you have no clue. I tested it with a $25 actron. Simple and easy. I read the directions 4 times and have done the test before with a friend of mine who is ASE certified. I won't pay anyone to work on my cars so he just guides me. You also don't know what has been done and what is wrong with the whole care. It's throwing EGR because I put a delete plate in. And the (EVP) is new on everything is cleaner than your dishes. It threw the brake code because I never set the e-brake for the KOER test like your told to do and the (PSPS) is part of the reason why the car steers like it does, that and a missing rubber seal on a power steering line. Did you read any of my other threads or even read my signature? How about check the profile info? Not to be an a** jr. but tighten up before you say someone isn't doing it right.
Yeah I read your posts. The bit about the EGR was the last thing I wrote, so the plate must have slipped my mind while I was looking for the injector resistances. My apologies. Sounds like you figured it out being that the scan was so simple and easy that, even with an ASE certified mechanic, it took you four look-overs to do it. You've got your troubleshooting process down tighter than a virgin's daughter. Kudos. And no, I don't know what's been done to your car other than what's on your signature, really. I'm not going to venture into your profile, other threads, or your biography written by your mechanic friend for more clues on that. If you want someone to see it, post it. True I also don't know what all is wrong with your car... that makes two of us. So... not to make you sound like an a$$, but I was just trying to help and you response was very a$$h0ley, if you will. No hard feelings though old man.
Yeah I read your posts. The bit about the EGR was the last thing I wrote, so the plate must have slipped my mind while I was looking for the injector resistances. My apologies. Sounds like you figured it out being that the scan was so simple and easy that, even with an ASE certified mechanic, it took you four look-overs to do it. You've got your troubleshooting process down tighter than a virgin's daughter. Kudos. And no, I don't know what's been done to your car other than what's on your signature, really. I'm not going to venture into your profile, other threads, or your biography written by your mechanic friend for more clues on that. If you want someone to see it, post it. True I also don't know what all is wrong with your car... that makes two of us. So... not to make you sound like an a$$, but I was just trying to help and you response was very a$$h0ley, if you will. No hard feelings though old man.
Easy dillhole. I know whats wrong with the car kid. I got it running nice and smooth again. I ask so maybe someone might help me fix the problem faster. I work alot of overtime and can't always be under my hood.
I need lower ball joints and an alignment to fix my steering, I can block out the injector noise ( and have an extra if it goes bad), I need a 3:73 or 4:10 rearend for the take off and some NOS for the power. Other than that, paint and interior. What you think about that, son.
I don't know. What AM I supposed to think? Should I have pissed my pants by now or what? Congrats on fixing your car though, really. By the way, this is what I was talking about since my very first post was a lot of rambling about the other tests including the BOO and PSPS:
• If the vehicle is equipped with a Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS), the steering wheel must be turned atleast 1/2 turn and released within 2 seconds after the engine ID Code is transmitted.
• If the vehicle is equipped with the E4OD transmission, the Overdrive Cancel Switch (OCS) must be sycled after the engine ID Code is transmitted.
Just to clarify, the BOO is for the e-brake and not the foot brake?
Oh and what was causing the lean condition?
And by the way, knowing where the problem is and WHAT the problem is are two different things.
I don't know. What AM I supposed to think? Should I have pissed my pants by now or what? Congrats on fixing your car though, really. By the way, this is what I was talking about since my very first post was a lot of rambling about the other tests including the BOO and PSPS:
• If the vehicle is equipped with a Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS), the steering wheel must be turned atleast 1/2 turn and released within 2 seconds after the engine ID Code is transmitted.
• If the vehicle is equipped with the E4OD transmission, the Overdrive Cancel Switch (OCS) must be sycled after the engine ID Code is transmitted.
Just to clarify, the BOO is for the e-brake and not the foot brake?
Oh and what was causing the lean condition?
And by the way, knowing where the problem is and WHAT the problem is are two different things.
Just to clarify, the BOO is for the e-brake and not the foot brake?
Oh and what was causing the lean condition?
I said I never set the e-brake I believe.
It was running to rich because I had 17lb injectors in and never bought a calibrated MAF for the injector size. I put the old ones back in and i'm going to get an adjustable pressure regulator.
