I ran some codes today and this is what I get......
KOEO...... 33 EGR valve Position (EVP) sensor or pressure feedback EGR (PFE) valve not opening or valve not seated properly
KOER..... 172 Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensor voltage signal indicates "lean" (Bank #1)
538 Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test (Engine run self test) or Invalid cylinder balance test - throttle position movement or Invalid cylinder balance test - cylinder identification problems
536 Brake on/off ..........I didn't set the e brake.
521 Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS) open connection circuit failure.
I checked the EGR delete plate while it was running with carb cleaner and the engine didn't rev up so I would assume it's good. The pipe from the exhaust is probably not to tight because of the broken bottom bolt.
The car has the VERY LOUD ticking injector and I have to have the idle up to keep the car from stalling. It's up a good 2 teeth or so. It's slow and it gets ALOT slower when I use the A/C, like it's being flooded. I can barely move even if I floor it. I basically have to floor it to get her going then it's alright, but not when the A/C is on. Can anyone help point me in the right direction with these codes? Thanks guys.
well most of that was talking about your egr when you did the delete did you disconnect the hose and vres from the egr, and the connector to the egr their was a helpful article about egr delete where you sauder 3 resistors 390ohm and 2x 3900ohm and stick it into the wiring connector and it will tell the computer it is running correctly
and the oxygen sensor "hego" is saying that one is not getting enough fuel so i could be many a thing fuel pump fuel filter injectors maybe a constant open fuel pressure regulator
Last edited by Sever_Body; 06-25-2009 at 06:28 PM.
Reason: addition
well most of that was talking about your egr when you did the delete did you disconnect the hose and vres from the egr, and the connector to the egr their was a helpful article about egr delete where you sauder 3 resistors 390ohm and 2x 3900ohm and stick it into the wiring connector and it will tell the computer it is running correctly
WHAT?? All I did was slip a plate in between the plenum and EGR valve so nothing went into the engine. The wires are still hooked up. Is that making it run lean? Is it making me turn the idle up to keep it running?
no the egr will not make it run lean, hmm, the idle, could i get a bit more detail on it
If I put the idle down to factory settings it dies. I have to keep the idle up for it to keep running. It revs up and down just a bit. And it feels like it's getting flooded when I have the a/c on and i'm driving.
and idle like that could be alot of things map sensor iac tps fuel injector"which brings to the lean part because one could not be firing so you are missing on one cylinder" fuel filter fuel pump, i dont think an egr on constant close will make the car do that because mine is shut off completely sure it doesnt have a plate but it has no power to actuate the diaphram and timing can also do that to because the timing can be so far retarded that it will cause it to miss, but the thing with the ac it has alot of resistance with the ac clutch and it will bog down an engine especially the 2.3l
and idle like that could be alot of things map sensor iac tps fuel injector"which brings to the lean part because one could not be firing so you are missing on one cylinder" fuel filter fuel pump, i dont think an egr on constant close will make the car do that because mine is shut off completely sure it doesnt have a plate but it has no power to actuate the diaphram and timing can also do that to because the timing can be so far retarded that it will cause it to miss, but the thing with the ac it has alot of resistance with the ac clutch and it will bog down an engine especially the 2.3l
IAC, TPS, Fuel Filter, 5.0 Fuel Pump have been changed. I know the a/c makes it slow but not like this. At times I can't go anywhere. Should I go get another injector from the yard?
well not right away you need to test first have you ever ran fuel injector clean through it? because from what i under stand a very small amount of blockage within your fuel injector can cause a misfire and read lean on your o2 sensor (around 10%-12%)
what did it do on the 17lb against the 14lb also having a higher flow fuel pump on a 2.3l can cause more flow and not having a properly cleaned air intake system can do it also
The 17lb made it run rich with black smoke. But it loved the WOT. 14lb are fine but now i'm starting to think the first injector by the timing belt is not working.
There are some people on here who have a 5.0 fuel pump on their 2.3l and i'm guessing nothing happened to them.
It's not the intake system. That's clean, TB, IAC, filter and PVC valve, all clean.
Maybe the injector is whats making it run like crap. With 3 injectors working I would have to up the idle to keep it running, right?
agreed with Navy. you may only be getting fuel to 3 cylinders instead of all 4 and that would cause the rough idling and the stalling. i would deff. check into that #1 injector that you say is ticking really loud.
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(Newer Motor [70,000 miles] Spectre Cold Air Intake, EGR Delete, AC Delete, Cat Delete, Flomaster 40 Series Muffler, Shortened Exhaust, American Racing Outlaw Series II Rims, Stalker Hood, Pioneer Deck Set, 12" Pyle Quoobz, Planet Audio Amp, [500 Watts Total]. Comp Cam [mild], Bored .30 over,
THese three...
538 Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test (Engine run self test) or Invalid cylinder balance test - throttle position movement or Invalid cylinder balance test - cylinder identification problems
536 Brake on/off ..........I didn't set the e brake.
521 Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS) open connection circuit failure.
... you're getting, MOST LIKEY, because you're not testing your car right during the diag. I have a cheap little $30 ford OBD I reader from autozone and it says that after it's done reading the codes it goes into another mode where you have to turn the steering wheel half a turn and hold for 3 seconds then also pretty the break once. After that mode it goes into that dynamic test where you have to press the accelerator down all the way while it's running. You dont have to hold it, just press all the way down and release. Since these three are a manual part of the diagnostic and you have all three of them(there's actually a fourth test, but I dont think our cars need that test... forgot what it is) then it's likely that those codes arent real problem. You just didnt run the test right.
Oh as far as the lean problem, it sounds like you need a new injector. Do you have a multimeter? Check unplug the injector and check the resistance across it. it should be within this range... if not then you need a new one:
2.3 HSC 13.5-16 ohms
2.3 HSO 13.5-16 ohms
2.3 OHC 15-19 ohms
As far as the EGR, take it off and take a look at it. It's probably all gunked up and stuck. If it's really bad, spray some carb cleaner in it to loosen it up and scrap all that stuff out. If the plunger is still stuck push it down with a screw driver from the exhaust side. Try that and see if it gets rid of your problem. If not it may be a fault EGR Valve Position Sensor(EVP)...$15.
Need code help.......1993 Mustang foxbody 
