[MilkMaster122]

Ok guys, so i finally got my 85 SVO motor running in my 1992 mustang LX.

Im having the issue that when the car is in neutral is starts perfect and idles perfect. i can rev it up and it sounds good but it will only rev up to 3000 RPMS. it will not exceed that.

Once I put it into gear it lacks power, stalls and def. hessitates. it is barely drivable. If i keep my foot into it it will jerk and sputter but eventually it will creep up to high RPMS and build boost. but again still runs like crap.

any ideas of what could cause this?

I have replaced the MAP sensor, the VAM, the COIL, the Ignition control mod, cap and rotor, and distributor itself. as well as new plugs and wires. IACV is new. TPS is new. computer is brand new from ford LA2.

any thoughs would be awesome.

Thanks.

[Stangmansteve]

well its entirely possible the parts you bought one might be defective.

[derklug]

What is your fuel pressure? Below 25,or above 60 can cause these concerns. Should be around 40 at idle, 45 with regulator vac line disconnected.

[MilkMaster122]

my fuel pressure is 55psi with the regulator connected and 58 without. and it stays the same.
I have tested the VAM and it is working perfectly.
I have also tested the TPS and it is working perfectly.
The IACV is doing its thing because when i unplug it it just dies.

[MilkMaster122]

went and got the ignition control mod. tested and it was bad. replaced it and still not getting any spark. and my fuel pump stopped priming!!! ug.

[Stangmansteve]

there is a short somewhere...your fuel pump is not getting a signal...you checked all the fuses, relays...any and all of that?


Im just going down the gauntlet here.

[Stangmansteve]

OHH...if you don't install the distributor correctly it could lead to a sequencing issue...but that's not the case here it seems.

[Stangmansteve]

Any cut or nicked wires. Bent lines? anything Looks loose on the ECU cables and connections?

[MilkMaster122]

ok well the thing is is i didnt touch anything at all wiring wise when all this happend. before this happened it was firing fine. then it started to run REALLY rough. it wouldnt start after that. then i disconnected the negitive battery cable and pulled the dist. to find out the ignition control mod went bad. i put a new one on it and still no spark and the fuel pump stopped. fuel pump is new. i went through my fuse box and there is no fuse that would relate to anything that my problems or having. I have not checked any fuses because they are not replaceable. they are in a little box that you have to replace as a whole on the passenger side of the engine compartment. do you know what relays may be located in that box? maybe it went bad? but what are the chances it went bad without even running? I just pulled my igntion side harness out of the car and im gonna cut that open and check it for the 1000 time.

[MilkMaster122]

ignition side harness is in great shape. all solders or perfect and solid. no way there's a short there.

i havnt tested any fuses or relays as I said. but there is no way for me to test any of the others since they are in the external engine compute box.

i was going to pull codes but since the negative cable has been off it reset the computer. so for right now its no spark, or fuel.

I disconnected my fuel feed line from my fuel rail and there was TONS of gas. it squrted for a good 10 seconds full force. but still... no priming...

[MilkMaster122]

just went outside with the voltage meeter. found a problem.

The coil is getting 12V on pos. AND the neg. is this normal?

Also the black/white wire that i used to get my 12V signal for my VAM is now only reading .27V it is suppose to give 12.21V how is this possible? is there a relay linked to this wire?

also i pulled out the wiring diagrams and pin number 27 is the black/white wire and is a 12V ref. its only giving out .23V now. would this mean the computer is shot? its a reman. new computer that I bought from orileys. Ive only have 20 miles on the damn thing.

[bjoe427]

@.3 l or 5.0?

First do not cut your wiring harness.They run about $400 used on ebay!!@

First ide check the fuse box under the dash The one under hood is mostly like the main breafers in your house you have one under the dash or in glovebox fuel pump fuse will be 5 amp fuse orang or yellow and check ecm fuse to 10 or 15 amp.Thers a shutoff relay if you get in an accident usually in the trunk.alittle red or orange button if you can push it in its tripped.if its a 5.0 check your distributor wires.may have one miss placed.get the fireingorder right first and check dwell timing slitly turndistributor may be retarded like me.intill yo get a smooth idle.and it may be your crank sensor, take it out and cleanit may be coverd with sludge AND CHANGE YOUR FUEL FILTER could be clogged.and check fuel pressure regulator hoses and wires.then get som electrical cleaner and cleanall your conections.Change your NEG Battery cable.If the cables corrodedon the inside it will cause a bunch of problems.

[bjoe427]

there are breakes and relays for the ecm check those.If youhave the 2.3 l check and make sure youhave the exost plugs.and firing plugs conected to the right coil packs.firing plugsactually fire.the other four just reburn the exost.if the wires ir revirsed it will not fire at the right time.

[bjoe427]

whe ever you disconnect your battery the car will run like crap for a while because the computer mod has to reset itself and everything els usually about 10 min.Ide get a trouble code reader they run about 40 bucks.that will tell you any problems with sencors and such.

[MilkMaster122]

the car is a distributed car it has no coil packs. and the wiring harness had to be cut in order for me to rewire the pip, spout, 12V crank,12Vkey,IDM, and ground wires from the original coil packs to the dizzy.

fuel pump is 255Literanhour pump with BBK fuel filter brand new.

i have no fuses for anything of the such of ECM, fuel pump, ignition nothing.

i have an external ECM that has all my relays fused into a circuit board. was replaced. have 4 extras.

and of course my firing order is correct as well as my timing.

this car is straight. lol negative battery cables were replaced a few months ago.

there or no check engine codes at all because i have disconnected the negative battery cable and the ECM lost its memory. hasnt started since then.

bjoe. all 2 plugs per cyl or hot on the top of the cyl head. i have used a head from one on a 2.3T. of course it was worked on though...

disconecting the negative battery cable isnt going to reset my ecm when the car is running. it has an alternator. a high output one for my subs to be frank. theres no issue with this.

im lost guys... lol
thanks for the sugestions.
anyone else?