Hello,
Just joined this forum, seems more active than others.
This is my first car, I am learning fast but I dont know everything yet...
The car sat for a few years before I aquisitioned it...
I have a few problems, but the main concern I have is the engine losing power, let me describe the problem.
While cold or if parked facing up hill, runs better. While hot or parked facing down hill the engine loses most power intermittantly.
Sometimes when newly started in the morning it runs great until im done work, then once I start it to go home it has no power, its not a slipping transmission, it just doesnt seem to want to go!
some times its worse than others but its just a major loss of power, if I drive it a bit and park it somewhere for 15 minutes its usually good and will run great for the trip home or where ever to. Only rarely does it lose power on the highway and if it does it usually kicks back on after a while.
The RPMS guage doesnt work so I cant tell how fast its revving and stuff. This is an intermittant issue like I've noticed many people are having, maybe somone can help.
I have had this car about a week and a half, heres what I have done myself in the last week or so to it.
New signal flasher, replaced fuses and lights. signals still working only intermittantly.
Removed intake silencer & replaced air filter.
Installed a new fuel pump and fuel filter & new relief line.
Changed oil and oil filter.
Adjusted linkage which corrected slipping transmission.
I also have the same idling issue where it idles nice for a while then turns rough and shaky and then goes smooth again, I've seen a couple holes in the exhaust line and havent had a chance to replace it yet.
I think I'll get a pressure guage and check the Cat tonight, is there anything else that could cause this problem?? the transmission mechanic said it seems like a plugged exhaust but hes a transmission mechanic haha.
First of all you didnt mention what car you have, model, year and what mileage does it have? But what ever car you have if it has alot of miles on that motor, first thing is go thru the basics, spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, motor oil, oil filter, and coolant. Once that out of the way depending on what other details it might have like maybe electrical stuff, such as sensors, i would check compression and yes check that you dont have a blown Cat. Good luck.
First of all you didnt mention what car you have, model, year and what mileage does it have? But what ever car you have if it has alot of miles on that motor, first thing is go thru the basics, spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, motor oil, oil filter, and coolant. Once that out of the way depending on what other details it might have like maybe electrical stuff, such as sensors, i would check compression and yes check that you dont have a blown Cat. Good luck.
Sorry I forgot the details, I have alot on my mind!
1991 Mustang LX 2.3L N/A
128k kilometers
ok I can check/clean the spark plugs tonight, I think this car has 8 no?
I guess checking wires is easy but I dont know how to check the Distributor cap, or rotor, I have changed motor oil filter and coolant already, I will go from here tho thanks for the quick tips!
should I just replace all 8 spark plugs? they are only like 2 bucks each?
Yes it does have 8 plugs and it's best to change all 8.
Is the "Engine" light on? There may be stored codes in the computer that may point to the problem.
As for the signals working intermittently, does the AC/Heat fan also stop working when the signals stop working? May be a sign of a bad ignition switch.
Sorry I forgot the details, I have alot on my mind!
1991 Mustang LX 2.3L N/A
128k kilometers
ok I can check/clean the spark plugs tonight, I think this car has 8 no?
I guess checking wires is easy but I dont know how to check the Distributor cap, or rotor, I have changed motor oil filter and coolant already, I will go from here tho thanks for the quick tips!
should I just replace all 8 spark plugs? they are only like 2 bucks each?
Yes. Your car has 2 coil packs and 8 plugs and wires. Go ahead and change those first. Check your cats.Clean your IAC and throttle body. If it still does it then try the crank position sensor. I only say this because if you look through my threads, I had the same problem. Sometimes you gas it from a stop and it bogs and won't move. With the a/c on it has half of the 105 hp your sapose to have. It'll start up nice and run smooth for a good 10-15 minutes at idle in park then it starts shaking and wanting to shut off. Is your idle up more than it should be? It should be around 800 rpm, quiet and smooth. I went through alot of stuff but when I had no choice but to change the crank sensor, it was like a new car, after I got it timed right. Quiet, smooth, restored hp, and actually moves with the a/c on. Maybe thats not your problem but it helped me. It does cost about $140 and it's cheaper if you do it yourself.
Those darn ignition switches do tend to fall appart easily. Just take off the plastic cover from your steering column and its in the bottom part. Its a little box with a connection to it, its one half is metal thats clamped to the other half made of plastic, just make sure that its is not loose( the metal half with the plastic half) hope this helps.
ok thanks everyone, I have alot to go through when I get off work in the next 40 minutes, thank you very much I'll put in 8 new spark plugs tonight and check the ignition switch.
one more thing, could a clog in the exhaust line cause this sort of intermittant issue?
what is an IAC? sorry im still learning, the TB looked clean but I will have to do a more thorough inspection, are you saying I should replace both caps, all the cables and or all the lines? or did you just mean to replace the spark plugs?
what is an IAC? sorry im still learning, the TB looked clean but I will have to do a more thorough inspection, are you saying I should replace both caps, all the cables and or all the lines? or did you just mean to replace the spark plugs?
Thanks again.
The Idle Air Control is on the throttle body. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/cleaning-your-iac.html
Read this. Now, replace the plugs and wires. Nothing fancier than Motorcraft. I didn't have to change the coil packs and I have no real idea as to what happens exactly when one is bad or going bad. Do the plugs, wires and clean the IAC and throttle body. Get an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner and go to town. Also don't forget the IAC gasket or black RTV sealant. If the cat or muffler was clogged it'll run sluggish all the time, so I wouldn't start there.
The first thing you have to do is run codes. IT INVOLVES JUMPING TWO PINS ON THE ALDL. Get a repair manual or look it up on lineThis will flash codes on the SES light. Go to ford extream codes 1981-1995. Its a web site. Count the flashes and record the codes. You will also have to check fuel preasure at the fuel rail. I like to do it on the road to see if it falls under a heavy load. I am going to say you may have a cloged CAT. The cat can be checked with a backpreasure gauge. The ignition switch could be bad but i dought it. Ford recalled them and said they fixed the problem. I still find some of the new switches fail. I have a fix for that problem that cures it forever. Good luck and do some testing and repost TOM
ignition module is intact, i do have another symptom of a failing ignition module, there is no gauge cluster lights, i tested today when signals failed, the ac fan seemed to work still.
im going to pick up some spark plugs if it doesnt work tomorrow is my day off and I have alot more time to try the other things you guys said. thanks, this is more than enough to get me started, if none of this works ill be back haha! ill let you know how it goes, thanks again.
Tom, I'm interested in your ignition switch fix. As a victim of a failed original switch and a problematic parts store replacement, I'm interested in reading about your permanent fix, as I'm sure other members are as well. At least if you post it up, it'll be here for posterity.
Ok this is what i do. The switch fails because of high current flow through the connector and the switch blades. (they melt) I have read the current through the switch and it is a wopping 50 amps. Here is what i do. First install a new switch and plug if yours is melted or brown in color. Then buy a 75A bosch relay and wire the heavy load side of the switch through the relay contacts. Then use the ignition switch to controll the relay winding. This way very low current flows through the switch. It now flows through the relay contacts. I leave the ignition portion of the switch to still run through the switch in case the relay fails. This way you wont get stuck on the road if the relay quits. The killer is the blower motor and AC that fries the switch. Basically what you are doing is making a slave relay circuit. I also do the same thing to the headlights on the Turbo Coupe. They burn out signal switches and headlight switches. I dont see to many mustangs burn out high bean switches or head light switches to often but some of them do.I have been doing this for more years than i would like to admit and it works great. Tom
Engine loses power, please help, I'm desperate. 
