Any sage advice about changing fuel pump in 89 LX. Went on vacation and off to school, total of 20 days and the fuel pump that was very noisy is not making any noise.
I figure it's fuel pump time and I have never installed an intank unit.
1/2 hour to drop the tank another 1/2 hour to install the pump another 1/2 hour to install it in the car. 1 1/2 hours tops. Easy job i would use a 255 w pump and always use a new sock and replace the fuel line in the tank. The line is a special one so dont go to the auto parts store to buy it.
I have a question. I just got this computor from my girls and i dont know how to make a new post (subject) How do you guys do it. I cant figure it out thaanks tom.
I have a question. I just got this computor from my girls and i dont know how to make a new post (subject) How do you guys do it. I cant figure it out thaanks tom.
I dont understand? Did i explain it wrong. I would like to make a thread and i dont know how. I just got this computor 6 months ago from my daughters. And i basically dont know how to do things on it. Thanks. So how do i post a new thread???
I dont understand? Did i explain it wrong. I would like to make a thread and i dont know how. I just got this computor 6 months ago from my daughters. And i basically dont know how to do things on it. Thanks. So how do i post a new thread???
Go to the page with all the threads. Above the top sticky thread on the left there will be a button that says new thread or just thread. Click on it to start your thread.
on a 89 the relay is under the driver seat, it's green. i'm going to make life a little simpler for you if you have to drop your tank. first you have to undo the filler neck clamp @ the tank, then your straps, no secret to this if their rotted their going to break, remember if the tank is full it's gonna be heavy, as you lower it you must slide it to the driver side to get the filler neck out, again if there's fuel in it, it may come out the filler hole, undo the wire harness @ the car and slide the tank out from under the car, look at the top of the tank, it's got a sender in the middle of the tank and a sender where the tank bumps up on the passanger side, the one in the centre is your fuel gauge, the one on the bump is the pump, do not open the centre sender, remove the one on the passanger side only, after removing the lock ring ( use a hammer and flat screwdriver or chisel, tap it COUNTERclockwise, switching from tab to tab, so it spins off and doesn't bind, a good trick is to tap the top of the tank around the ring to loosen rust) i reccomend buying a NEW lock ring, the old ones just don't have the strength to hold down the seal. make sure you use a NEW seal, after being removed the old ones are too streched to sit properly in the groove, this is the reason i said not to remove the centre sender, you would have to replace the seal. this would be a good time to remove the plastic cover off the tank and inspect it, if it's still good a coat of rust paint is a good investment. also when reinstalling the tank, put a little grease on the fillerneck so it slides into the tank seal easier, i've ripped one without grease.
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1987 ford mustang 2.3l turbo
mods: 1988 t-bird turbocoupe engine w/ IHI turbo & TMIC
recirculation valve fab'd to side of intercooler
merkur xr4ti ecm merkur small vane air meter
custom turbo back exhaust with cat, magnaflow 99 gt tailpipe.
AOD to t-5 swap
ford racing non adjustable quadrant with firewall adjuster
white pony wheels
If you do replace the lockring, make sure you use the special fuel line removal tool or you will ruin the hairpin fitting on the end of the return line. The tool is in any parts store for less than $10.00.
Also, NEVER use anything that can create a spark when striking while removing that lockring. Use a brass or nylon drift, a piece of wood, etc. Sure, I know, several of you have done it and gotten away with it. But that don't make it right.
i always forget about the fuel line tool cause i'm so used to using it i think everyone has a set.
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1987 ford mustang 2.3l turbo
mods: 1988 t-bird turbocoupe engine w/ IHI turbo & TMIC
recirculation valve fab'd to side of intercooler
merkur xr4ti ecm merkur small vane air meter
custom turbo back exhaust with cat, magnaflow 99 gt tailpipe.
AOD to t-5 swap
ford racing non adjustable quadrant with firewall adjuster
white pony wheels
Changing fuel pump 
