Im having some problems getting the transmission back into the car. Since I couldn't remove the torque convertor, I need to get it back in there! I already have the pump seal replaced and all and the tranny just sitting on the ground waiting to be put back in... keep in mind its just mainly going to be me doing it, and one other person with minimal knowledge of cars...
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2000 Ford Explorer
4.0 SOHC Automatic. Ultra White Headlights and fog lights. JVC headunit.
Future addons: Nissan Frontier Supercharger.
1992 Ford Mustang
2.3L N/A Automatic. Finally Running! Black and Blue "Speed" seat covers. CD Deck to be installed soon. Putting rear seat back in soon.
Future addons: New interior, paint flat black. 2.3L Turbo swap.
nothing has been moved. not the torque converter, or the shafts that go into the torque converter. can i get it if i have a little more help??
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2000 Ford Explorer
4.0 SOHC Automatic. Ultra White Headlights and fog lights. JVC headunit.
Future addons: Nissan Frontier Supercharger.
1992 Ford Mustang
2.3L N/A Automatic. Finally Running! Black and Blue "Speed" seat covers. CD Deck to be installed soon. Putting rear seat back in soon.
Future addons: New interior, paint flat black. 2.3L Turbo swap.
So the trans is on the ground, but the converter is still bolted to the flexplate on the back of the motor?
You'll never get it back in like that.
I am going out on a limb here me and chandler will bet you that in a million years you cant put that together and not mess up the seal or the converter. Here is how its done. Pull the converter and put it on the shaft of the tranny then push it while rotating it and rotate the converter while wiggling the converter into the spline and then into the pump flats. You will know it is all the way in when it thumps in. I find it impossible to do it with the converter on the engine bolted to the flex plate.
I am going out on a limb here me and chandler will bet you that in a million years you cant put that together and not mess up the seal or the converter. Here is how its done. Pull the converter and put it on the shaft of the tranny then push it while rotating it and rotate the converter while wiggling the converter into the spline and then into the pump flats. You will know it is all the way in when it thumps in. I find it impossible to do it with the converter on the engine bolted to the flex plate.
that took me forever to do! i finally stood the trans up with the bell housing in the air and carefully put the converter on the shaft and spun and wiggled it it fell in like 3 secs. and i works 2 DAYS with the trans laying horizontaly and it wouldnt do it for anything.
so just stand it up (be careful not to damage the rear seal [you will loose all the transmission fluid]) and try that.
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(Newer Motor [70,000 miles] Spectre Cold Air Intake, EGR Delete, AC Delete, Cat Delete, Flomaster 40 Series Muffler, Shortened Exhaust, American Racing Outlaw Series II Rims, Stalker Hood, Pioneer Deck Set, 12" Pyle Quoobz, Planet Audio Amp, [500 Watts Total]. Comp Cam [mild], Bored .30 over,
then how will i rebolt the torque converter back to the flywheel? thru the starter hole?
__________________
2000 Ford Explorer
4.0 SOHC Automatic. Ultra White Headlights and fog lights. JVC headunit.
Future addons: Nissan Frontier Supercharger.
1992 Ford Mustang
2.3L N/A Automatic. Finally Running! Black and Blue "Speed" seat covers. CD Deck to be installed soon. Putting rear seat back in soon.
Future addons: New interior, paint flat black. 2.3L Turbo swap.
Thats how its done . Through the starter HOLE. When i first started messing with autos years ago i used to stand the tranny UP like you said. But once you get the hang of it it goes right on with the box horizontal as well. After several hundred you get the NACK.
There's also an inspection cover on the bottom of the oil pan. See that little square sheet metal deal held in by two small hex head screws on the bottom of your oil pan? Take that off and there's free access to the torque converter bolts. You can use something in the starter hole to hold the flexplate while you undo the converter bolts. A deep socket and a swivel head ratchet are your friends here.
Be extra careful here. Think about what you've gotten yourself into. The torque converter is a heavy, awkward bugger, but normally its supported by the transmission when you unbolt it. Make sure you've got a good hold of it before you finis taking out the last bolt. Maybe get a buddy to support the converter while you take out the last bolt or something.
There's also an inspection cover on the bottom of the oil pan. See that little square sheet metal deal held in by two small hex head screws on the bottom of your oil pan? Take that off and there's free access to the torque converter bolts. You can use something in the starter hole to hold the flexplate while you undo the converter bolts. A deep socket and a swivel head ratchet are your friends here.
Be extra careful here. Think about what you've gotten yourself into. The torque converter is a heavy, awkward bugger, but normally its supported by the transmission when you unbolt it. Make sure you've got a good hold of it before you finis taking out the last bolt. Maybe get a buddy to support the converter while you take out the last bolt or something.
+1 those things are very heavy. and yes you can either bolt it back in through the starter hole or the inspection plate as b_chandler said.
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(Newer Motor [70,000 miles] Spectre Cold Air Intake, EGR Delete, AC Delete, Cat Delete, Flomaster 40 Series Muffler, Shortened Exhaust, American Racing Outlaw Series II Rims, Stalker Hood, Pioneer Deck Set, 12" Pyle Quoobz, Planet Audio Amp, [500 Watts Total]. Comp Cam [mild], Bored .30 over,
Thats how its done . Through the starter HOLE. When i first started messing with autos years ago i used to stand the tranny UP like you said. But once you get the hang of it it goes right on with the box horizontal as well. After several hundred you get the NACK.
maybe haha. ive had to do it two times now and both times it worked easier to stand it up than laying down.
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(Newer Motor [70,000 miles] Spectre Cold Air Intake, EGR Delete, AC Delete, Cat Delete, Flomaster 40 Series Muffler, Shortened Exhaust, American Racing Outlaw Series II Rims, Stalker Hood, Pioneer Deck Set, 12" Pyle Quoobz, Planet Audio Amp, [500 Watts Total]. Comp Cam [mild], Bored .30 over,
ok, is there any secrets on how to get the torque converter bolted back together once the transmission is mated and bolted back to the motor?
And should I tighten the all the tranny bolts down first or leave them loose for a little play? im thinkin i should tighten them back first before i do the torque converter since we dont want any play in it huh
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2000 Ford Explorer
4.0 SOHC Automatic. Ultra White Headlights and fog lights. JVC headunit.
Future addons: Nissan Frontier Supercharger.
1992 Ford Mustang
2.3L N/A Automatic. Finally Running! Black and Blue "Speed" seat covers. CD Deck to be installed soon. Putting rear seat back in soon.
Future addons: New interior, paint flat black. 2.3L Turbo swap.
1. take the converter off the flywheel (if its still there)
2. get it set back on in the transmission using the steps as we said above. (should make a big THUD noise when seated properly)
3. now that you have than in there secure it in the trans so it doesnt fall out.
4. now take it to the car and get it set up and situated right
5. line up the converter bolts so they go through the flywheel and start the nuts on them.
6. BE SURE NOT TO PUSH OR PULL THE TRANS. TOWARD THE REAR OF THE CAR! or you'll have to start all over again.
7. get your converter bolts tight and tighten your bell housing bolts. connect all your vaccum hose's connectors and shifter check your fluid and there you go.
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(Newer Motor [70,000 miles] Spectre Cold Air Intake, EGR Delete, AC Delete, Cat Delete, Flomaster 40 Series Muffler, Shortened Exhaust, American Racing Outlaw Series II Rims, Stalker Hood, Pioneer Deck Set, 12" Pyle Quoobz, Planet Audio Amp, [500 Watts Total]. Comp Cam [mild], Bored .30 over,
There's room for the converter to move when the bellhousing bolts are snugged up. It may be a little tricky because it's pushed against the flexplate slightly. Even if the bolts are started and not snugged, that's okay. I wouldn't go after the torque converter bolts without having at least a couple of bellhousing bolts on both sides in.
Hi chandler forgot that little cover??? Man i am really getting old. Well thats what happens when you are the boss. Hay chandler keep an eye on me if i mess up POUND ME.
2.3L A4LD problems 
