It won't do it in drive because when I give it gas in drive the front of the car rises. Opposite in reverse. So,that's where my problem lies.
I replaced the front shocks when I bought the car because when i'd push the front end down, it didn't like coming back up. It's got 225/60/15's when it calls for 195.
It also has the retract problem. I let go of the wheel when coming out of a turn and my car don't straighten itself out. Please help.
not returning to center is a caster problem, it needs an alignment to fix that. 205 is too big when it calls for 195, 200 would be ok. if i didnt lose my textbook i would tell you why. but i'm not sure if that would cause rubbing.
not returning to center is a caster problem, it needs an alignment to fix that. 205 is too big when it calls for 195, 200 would be ok. if i didnt lose my textbook i would tell you why. but i'm not sure if that would cause rubbing.
I'll try getting an alignment. And I went 225. But the rubbing in reverse has to do with the front end dropping to easily. Could I need new springs in a 93'?
Are you sure it's body movement that's causing the rub?
The body doesn't really transfer much weight in reverse unless you're gassing on it pretty good.
I've got a sneaking suspicion that the rack is shot along with the tie rods. Backing up is toeing it in enough to rub. When you roll forward, it toe's back out and takes up the slack.
Are you sure it's body movement that's causing the rub?
The body doesn't really transfer much weight in reverse unless you're gassing on it pretty good.
I've got a sneaking suspicion that the rack is shot along with the tie rods. Backing up is toeing it in enough to rub. When you roll forward, it toe's back out and takes up the slack.
So should I change the rack and pinion? Is there a way of checking it? Is there a difference between the 2.3 and the 5.0 R&P? Can I grab one from the junk yard or should that be new?
Fast ratio verses normal. Tc have fast ratios and so does some mustang 5.0. Wheel return is governed by positive caster. Buy a set of CC plates from maximum motor sports and have it aligned with more caster. I always add a fiew degreese of positive caster when i can get it. For the reason you just described.
I'd just about bet it fixes both the rubbing and the steering issue you've been bitching about since day one. Don't forget to do the outer tie rods ends too. One more thing. NOW YOU HAVE TO GET A FRIGGEN ALIGNMENT.
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Originally Posted by 93foxbody2.3
Is there a way of checking it?
Yes, but without knowing what you're seeing, it's pointless.
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Originally Posted by 93foxbody2.3
Is there a difference between the 2.3 and the 5.0 R&P?
The ratios are slightly different, nothing worth fussing over.
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Originally Posted by 93foxbody2.3
Can I grab one from the junk yard or should that be new?
Your call, but my money would be put on a new one. Lifetime warranty and all that.
Fast ratio verses normal. Tc have fast ratios and so does some mustang 5.0. Wheel return is governed by positive caster. Buy a set of CC plates from maximum motor sports and have it aligned with more caster. I always add a fiew degreese of positive caster when i can get it. For the reason you just described.
so you say caster/camber plates should help? are adjustable ones good or normal ones fine?
Fast ratio verses normal. Tc have fast ratios and so does some mustang 5.0. Wheel return is governed by positive caster. Buy a set of CC plates from maximum motor sports and have it aligned with more caster. I always add a fiew degreese of positive caster when i can get it. For the reason you just described.
Personally, I wouldn't recommend C-C plates to anyone trying to straighten out issues with worn steering and suspension components. It all worked when it was new, so if the geometry was brought back to stock with new bushings, rod ends, ball joints, etc. it should all work as new. If the rack is shot, the ball joints are bad, or some other problem, throwing a set of caster/camber plates on it is the equivalent of a band-aid on a bullet wound.
Totally correct FRONT END PARTS MUST BE 100% good and then install CC plates. You must totally check out the front end before any alignment. The CC plates work real good after all problem parts are replaced and or checked properly. Thats a NO BRAINER
And the whole time months ago when I said that you have a caster problem you just blew me off and said that the "expert" alignment place you took it to told you that the balljoints needed greasing to fix them?
Funny thing is, why didn't they grease them for you and align the front end? Why? Because they have no clue.
I'll get everything working right before I replace the CC plates. The front end is poor. I'm going to bring it to another front end shop and ask them to check it out for me.
I would wait on even considering caster/camber plates until a full comprehensive analysis has been conducted on the suspension. After any other repairs that might take place, you may not need them at all. They will cost you about $200.00 after shipping.
Also, I doubt the R&P is really that hosed to cause this rubbing. Maybe, but I doubt it. Now, the mounting bushings could be so worn that it is adding to all the other things that could be wrong under there as well. I have seen bushings so worn that the rack is wobbling around.
Kurt, probably not the rack itself, but more so the inner and outer tie rods.
The original rack on my car was stiff and slow to return to center. I didn't suspect the rack, but after a seal let go, I had to replace the rack(or keep buying fluid). The difference was amazing. Half the effort to steer and easily returned to center after setting the toe.
Tires rub in reverse 
