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Old 08-17-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Default B2300 header on 89 Mustang Fitment question

I thought i hit the jackpot yesterday when i found tube header on a mazda b2300 at the junkyard and quickly pulled it off and bought it.

BUT when I went to take the old header off of my 89 2.3, I noticed that there is no bung for the o2 sensor and the egr tube threads on the new header look much smaller than on the car.

Is this the wrong header or do i have to make modifications to make this work? I thought these were bolt on
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Old 08-17-2009   #2 (permalink)
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You got basically the same one I did. On those models, the O2 sensor was down in the pipe and not the manifold and they used a different EGR tube.

I welded an O2 sensor bung on the collector on mine and grafted the Mustang and truck EGR tubes together(one fits inside the other BTW) to make it work.
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Old 08-17-2009   #3 (permalink)
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where do they sell the bungs for the o2 sensor? do you think an exhuast shop would have them, and I guess ill go back to the junkyard and ull the egr tube off that truck so i can graft them together.
Also did you notice any difference when you put yours on? Basically I'm wondering if it is worth the hassle of doing this.

and thank you by the way for the info so far.
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Old 08-17-2009   #4 (permalink)
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I got the bung from Jeg's along with a couple of other things I needed at the time.

Honestly, I couldn't tell you if that header made a difference or not. When I did all this, I was rebuilding the motor, so while I had it apart, I did some clean up work in the intake and exhaust ports and a little unshrouding in the combustion chamber. Nothing major, because at the time I didn't know how thick the port walls were. So when it all went back together it had a little more zing, but how much the header contributed, I couldn't tell you.

The main reason I did it, was because my cast iron manifold was cracked, and the header from a junkyard was cheaper(OK and cooler too ) than a new cast iron manifold.
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Old 08-17-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Ok, haha well thank you for all your information, You have truly helped me out alot today. Thank you
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Old 08-17-2009   #6 (permalink)
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I use a 18MM 1.5 pitch metric NUT for the O2 BUNG. oR LIKE CHANDLER SAID JEGS etc. I RUN A HOME MADE TUBE FROM THE DOWN PIPE TO THE EGR. Its not hard to do. I weld a pipe fitting on the down pipe for the EGR feed and mate it to tht EGR fitting. Actual HP gain debatible. Slight for the work involved but worth the effort.
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Old 08-17-2009   #7 (permalink)
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Here's pics of mine.
Attached Thumbnails
b2300-header-89-mustang-fitment-question-header1.jpg  b2300-header-89-mustang-fitment-question-header2.jpg  b2300-header-89-mustang-fitment-question-header3.jpg  
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Old 08-18-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Just one point chandler and i dont want to be critical. You do very nice work. The O2 should never be pointing down. Always try to mount it UP if possible. Second best is horizontal. The reason is the O2 takes in outside air and when it rains the watter can clog the open pores of the sensor. I see that all the time in the shop. Just a point that can save you some grief. TOM
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Old 08-18-2009   #9 (permalink)
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I'll stick that in my hat for next time.
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Old 08-18-2009   #10 (permalink)
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Didn't want to be critical. I know you are a sereyous mechanic. We had a honda that kept eating O2 sensors. It came from another shop. The guy put a down pipe on it and the O2 was facing down and watter mud and snow clogged it up. He would change the O2 and a month later it would mess up. We fixed the problem by putting the O2 vertical and all the way up the pipe. Now all is good in the world for that guy. Just wanted to pass that on to you . Thanks TOM
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Old 08-18-2009   #11 (permalink)
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No offense taken. I'm open to criticism. I was half expecting it on the welds The MIG I used has two settings, OFF, and BURN THROUGH. The TIG came a couple of months later.

I wouldn't say I'm a serious mechanic. I'm a professional hobbyist. Oh, and I do stay at Holiday Inn Expresses from time to time.
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Old 08-18-2009   #12 (permalink)
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Hay chandler been in the business 47 years i definately know the difference. You know what you are doing. I have hired and fiew people in 47 years. You would definately make the grade. I can tell from your answers. YOU ARE UP THEIR
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Old 08-19-2009   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b_chandler View Post
No offense taken. I'm open to criticism. I was half expecting it on the welds The MIG I used has two settings, OFF, and BURN THROUGH. The TIG came a couple of months later.

I wouldn't say I'm a serious mechanic. I'm a professional hobbyist. Oh, and I do stay at Holiday Inn Expresses from time to time.
haha i have that same type of welder as you stated either ON, BURN THROUGH, or CRAPPY WELD!
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Old 08-20-2009   #14 (permalink)
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Guys catch this Tractor Supply has wire feed welders real reasonable. The new ones are HOBART. They weld great and holy smokes a 180Amp unit is under 600 bucks. The 140 anp is under 400 bucks. I just up dated my shpo with all miller machines and tractor now stocks MILLER Cool or what. Hats off to tractor supply.
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Old 08-22-2009   #15 (permalink)
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only problem is with that is i dont have that much money to dish out to a welder at the time being. haha
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