[Mike89]

sorry thats free shipping anywhere in the Continental United states.

[da phreak]

mustangs unlimited a little cheaper than cj. 15 $ flat rate shipping too

[TOM RENZO]

Mike KYB shocks are real good and much better than sensortracks. Monroe are stock replacements. Mike love that little shifting DUDE icon

[SM90Stanger]

Originally Posted by Mike89

I don't know if KYB shocks and struts are any better than the sensa-trac ones, but it seems to be what everyone uses on there fox body's. I'm thinking of getting the KYB shock and strut kit myself because like you 3/4 of my shocks and struts are gone. Try checking out cj pony parts you can get the KYB shock and strut kit for like $206.95 and if you order on Wednesdays shipping is free.

Thanks Mike, I will look into cj pony... I will probably be going with the KYB's (thanks Tom) and I can get them for $230 here at Direct auto. When I went to Direct, I got a quote and saved $300 on all of those parts!!! And $25 more if I order from cj on a Wednesday, lol.

I do have one question though: I am confused about the wheel bearings because when I got the quotes, the piston ring one said that there were 2 seperate wheel bearing quotes ($32 and $29) but didn't give any expanations on if they were the same or different wheel bearings. And then, from Direct auto, it has a "Front outer bearing set" and a "Front inner bearing set". Are there 2 seperate bearings that I would need to buy? And is that I have to push them together or something? I am sorry for my extreme lack of knowledge of suspension .

Thanks, Steve

[Mike89]

Originally Posted by TOM RENZO

Mike KYB shocks are real good and much better than sensortracks. Monroe are stock replacements. Mike love that little shifting DUDE icon

Thanks I thought it was cool.

[lilcobra 93lx]

The KYB are way better than sens a trac they out last them and are much better in the handling dept. I love to carve corners and the KYB's always out perform the gas ajust are firmer and have more presure also they help reduce wheel hop. They have them for quad shocks also.

[SM90Stanger]

Yep, I'll be getting the KYB shocks and struts tomorrow along with all of the other front end suspension parts... So everyone get ready for the massive amount of questions that will be headed your way, lol.

Thanks everyone, Steve

[SM90Stanger]

Hey everyone,

So I picked up Moog problem solver tie rod ends, lower ball joints, sway bar link kits and wheel bearings with the oil seals. Along with KYB rear shocks and am still waiting on the KYB struts and the mounting plates.

I think I should be able to easily install all of the parts except I might have one little problem with the wheel bearings as I do not have a press. I was told I could make a press with my hydrualic pump jack and a couple of pieces of metal welded to it so that it could press the bearings together. Also I was told a soft mallet could be used to do the job as well. I am wondering how you grease the bearings? Do you grease them before or after? How do you grease them and how much grease? Also, how does the oil seal work?

Thanks, Steve

[Amscray88kr]

Id say get a manual it helped with my front brake rotor and pad install. other than that, its real easy ive never touched a car in my life before that. youre lucky these are really easy to work on.

[SM90Stanger]

Originally Posted by Amscray88kr

Id say get a manual it helped with my front brake rotor and pad install. other than that, its real easy ive never touched a car in my life before that. youre lucky these are really easy to work on.

Yes, they probably are easy to work on... when every bolt isn't rust welded to the nut. And yes that is what has happened to Alice.

Problems when disassembling:

1) Tie rod ends would not come off of the arm no matter how much liquid wrench I used (as shown in the pix). Question: Can I cut off the arm and weld on the end of a bolt... or should I just get a new rack?

2) The stabilizer links were really easy to pull off but the stabilizer bar was pretty rusty. While I am at it, is there a better stabilizer bar that I could be using? or just clean this one up?

3) In my haynes manual, it says that the lower ball joints are not replaceable and instead the entire control arm has to be replaced. So do I actually have to get another ball joint or is there a way to get the old off and put the new one in (don't have any instructions from the haynes manual). And also note when giving the instructions, I already have the control arm stripped down to just the steering knuckle.

4) My front right spring was cracked (refer to pic)... CRACKED!! Does anyone want to recommend a brand that they used and had good luck with? And should I also buy rear springs as well?

So I am kind of annoyed and really mad because nothing is really working for me right now. If anyone wants to motivate me a little, go for it.

Thanks everybody,

Stevo

[SM90Stanger]

k, so the pictures didn't want to load... sorry.

The spring cracked in the 2nd coil from the bottom and is leaning over at an angle on the other side of the spring. And both of the tie rod ends had about 1.5 inches of thread left before they wouldn't budge any farther.

Oh, one more question: Can I change springs by myself?

Thanks, Steve

[lilcobra 93lx]

Steve the ball joints press into the control arms and you can change the springs your self. rent an inside spring compresor
it goes inside the spring you don't need to compress it much
I have a buddy that dose'nt use one but its a little risky if you put lowering springs in you dont need one you can always use the smoke wrench to remove

[SM90Stanger]

I would really like to know 2 things:

a) Should I replace the rack, or cut the old tie rod end off and weld on new bolt ends?

b) Do I have to get new A-arms or is there a way to get the old lower ball joints out of the stock A-arms?

One of my ball joints has been replaced at sometime in the car's life and they didn't use a new A-arm, they just cut part of the end of the A-arm off... I don't know why, but maybe it was to pry the old one out? Oh well.

I am in a desperate situation here peoples!

Thanks, Steve

[b_chandler]

Wow, okay. Put the caffeine away.

If you can't get the tie rod ends off of the rack. (This assumes you loosened the lock nut, and still can't turn the tie rod end.) Then replace the rack. Welding a bolt on to the end of the tie rod has to be the most ill-thought idea I've seen or heard in some time.

As mentioned earlier, the ball joints can be pressed out. It stands to reason (and is proven fact) that that which can be pressed out, can also be pressed in. Problem solved. The alternative you suggested is like amputating a finger over a hang nail.

Calm down. The world isn't out to get you and there's no real need to panic unless there's blood.

[93foxbody2.3]

Originally Posted by b_chandler

Wow, okay. Put the caffeine away.

If you can't get the tie rod ends off of the rack. (This assumes you loosened the lock nut, and still can't turn the tie rod end.) Then replace the rack. Welding a bolt on to the end of the tie rod has to be the most ill-thought idea I've seen or heard in some time.

As mentioned earlier, the ball joints can be pressed out. It stands to reason (and is proven fact) that that which can be pressed out, can also be pressed in. Problem solved. The alternative you suggested is like amputating a finger over a hang nail.

Calm down. The world isn't out to get you and there's no real need to panic unless there's blood.